Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Scope mounts/picatinny rail for tikka t3

Have one of the Swfa 10xscope deals coming in…the one that includes the Swfa scope rings.will I need a picatinny rail as well to mount the rings I have coming in? If so which one would you use?

I use a Talley rail on several Tikka T3's, they are 20 moa, this with Burris Signature Zee rings.

No issues at all.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/13425750/all/tikka-scope-mounts

Lots of other options if you don’t want to use the free rings. If you definitely want to use them, I have an Area 419 rail on my T1x that works well.

So looking like I’d do better to just by 30mm rings that fit directly then. Fewer bits to mess with?

I've used a MT rail on a couple of Tikkas. They have a very robust integral recoil lug. On the 20 moa version the front screw is sometimes just slightly too long. It can be ground down, or a shorter screw can be used. Other than that, been very happy with them.

The SWFA are good rings and are pretty low.

Sportsmatch rings with recoil pin or else Area419 rail with either SWFA or Burris XTR Sig rings is my preference.

I’m using the EGW rail on my Tikka T3X Lite and Burris Signature Zee Rings. No problems.

I've got a Mountain Tactical 20moa rail on my T3x, they just sent me a black friday email, so may have deal going.

Many have already provided good suggestions or recommendations for your second question. So, as to your first question: yes, those rings will require a picatinny rail or, at least, separate slotted bases.

Mountain tactical, EGW, or the factory steel CTR rail are good options..

Thank you!

I’m running the sportsmatch on my t3x 223. Have to order them from overseas but mine arrived within a week.

As below
Sportsmatch T084
A rail will have yo 1/4 “ higher

Mountain tatical on both of my tikkas

Why wouldn’t you spread those rings out further in order to give more support to your scope as intended?

SJDupont,
When you mounted your rail, did you bed the recoil lug? I put the same rail on my daughters .260 TX3 stainless laminate (one of the prettiest rifles I've ever seen), but I did not bed the lug. Just wondering what you did.

No I didnt bed it. Mounted it and rolled on. Shoots factory blue box 150s damn near in same hole and also handloads under 1/2 moa.

Castle, the reason I didnt or better yet couldn't is the scope design. This Schmidt Bender Polar 4-16x56 has a separate knob for illumination. So that is as far as I could spread it out. I could have moved the front out further but I wanted them to look symmetric

Ah that explains it

CR:

I notice that you have the rings spaced further out than what the factory recoil lug typically allows with the Sportsmatch rings. Just curious what you're doing for a recoil lug on that rig?

On the newer Tikkas I've used the rear action hole between the threaded base screw holes to fit a 1/8" rolled pin as a lug. On older Tikkas I've used the furthest forward mount screw as a lug for which I cut a corresponding hole in forward portion of the bottom of the front ring.

That may have been 10 years ago, but if I remember correctly I didn’t use any pins on that 260, just pushed the front mount into the end of the front dovetail and had no issues
Nowadays I use a 3mm pin in the rear hole