Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing 10/22 stripped scope base screw holes.

I picked up a used 10/22 on the cheap, wanting the action as a doner for a KIDD build. 3 out of 4 of the scope base screw holes are stripped. Fairly common issue, my go to move is a no go however, Brownells is out of stock on the oversized 6/48 screw set they sell to remedy this issue. So I’m curious what others would do here, go 8/40 or possibly just bed the base right to the receiver?

I had that happen to me in a relatively remote setting and needed to get things in order. I used locktite 620 to secure the base to the receiver. It’s worked fine so far.

8/40 all they way. I stripped out some 6/48s and glad I went 8/40 for the beef. JB weld if done right...still no.

Going to 8-40s is a piece of cake for a 10-22. Too bad some people don't pay attention to the fact that one cannot tighten screws on an aluminum receiver to the same torque as steel... Especially not needed on something like a 22 rimfire since recoil is basically zero..

I quit using 8-40s. I use 8-32 or 10-32. Much easier to come by, just as good. Why stick with the stupid gun- specific threads.

Because those stupid gun-specific threads give you 20% more threads engaged in thin receivers such as 10/22's. By the same token 6-48's give you 50% more threads engaged than 8-32's. If you don't need #8's for brute strength, the 6-48's are a better bet for most optics mounting. That's why so many guns are drilled and tapped 6-48 and so many mounts are made to fit them. There are times when 8-40 makes really good sense, particularly when resisting the shearing force of recoil. For most sane calibers, it is not necessary.

Good post. Something a lot of people don't understand.

Unfortunately, not understanding rarely keeps people from commenting.

Fine threads provide more holding power than coarse. This is particularly relevant when the material is quite thin and you can only cut a few threads, like on the rear bridge of a Mauser.

If there is any meat at all left in the screw holes, a 6-48 tap from Brownells and Locktite should/would work.

Very seldom is the cross section thin enough to make the ultra fine 48 thread pitch necessary. Generally when threading aluminum, coarser threads are used. Most of the force on a scope base screw is in shear, not tension. The number of threads is a moot point. A number 8 is almost twice as strong as a 6. If you're threading very thin material the finer threads might be some help. So far. I've had great luck with 8-32 and 10-32.
¼-28 is a great option as well...

8/40 works. My Rem 700 is set up that way intentionally.