Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics S&B Klassik vs Zenith

I’m looking at upgrading a scope on my 280ai. I’ll be hunting until last legal light and taking shots up to 400 yds on game (longer at the range). I’ve been looking at the S&B Zenith 3-12x50 with flash dot illuminated reticle in the mildot configuration for holdovers. I don’t want to dial a turret. The Klassik can be had in a similar configuration at less money. What’s the difference between the two? Lens coatings, erectors, etc.?

I’ve also considered the Meopta R2 2-12x50 BDC3 which seems to be a good alternative at the same price point as the Klassik. I think I’ve narrows it down to these few models but hoping to hear any first hand experiences.

The S&B’s are F1 and the Meopta is F2. What do YOU want? Generally speaking, the S&B’s are thought/known to have more robust construction.

F1 vs F2 is not a deciding factor. I’ve used and liked both.

I know scope failures are often discussed on these forums. I don’t recall hearing much about the Meoptas, especially the R2 models

I’ve never owned an R2, so I cannot comment. Have owned several Meopros on non dialers with zero issues. To me, again, the biggest difference is the focal plane. You have to decide what you want for your needs and then decide what scope works best. Total apples to oranges comparison in those two scopes. IMO, there is no use comparing features, or even reputation until you decide what focal plane you want. The two aren’t interchangeable, for me anyway.

If it really doesn’t matter to you, then go S&B, it’s the better built choice.

I have two Klassiks and they are outstanding. I’m interested in hearing the difference.

Search S&B glare….it’s a thing and I’ve witnessed it. Had a 3-12x50 Zenith that would wash out badly if even generally pointed towards rising or setting sun. Sold it fairly quickly after experiencing that. The two 3-12x42 Klassics I’ve had didn’t seem as bad in that regard but it still exists.

I had a 2.5 - 10x56 but sold it out of stupidity. After talking to Bobby on the site, I decided to anti up and get the Polar and haven't looked back. The low light gathering everyone knows about, but it's the illuminated dot that I love. its damn near a pin prick. But best of all, the illumination can be turned down so low that even in almost complete darkness, the dot doesn't over power the reticle or you pupil. Don't know much about the zenith, but my Klassik never got that low. Maybe it was just mine. The Klassik was however about $1000 cheaper than my Polar.

I also own a Meopta Optika 6 3-18x56 with illuminated #4 dot reticle. I'm not sure how it stacks up on glass to the R2 but it will also get me pass legal light here in Louisiana. And can be had for much cheaper than S&B's. It sits on my Tikka 7mag because I like the 18x when hunting out in southwest texas.

^^^^^This and it is a known issue. I would stick with the Classic or Polar those would be the S&B models I would buy. I have a Leica Amplus on my 257 bee and that is a real Gem in lowlight well built with a nice small dot in lowlight. Its not a light scope but it appears to be extremely well built .

So have any of y’all had the P3L in the Klassik? I think it’s an illuminated duplex instead of the illuminated dot. The Zenith is about $800 more than the Klassik (and the Polar even more than that). Zenith and Klassik 90% light transmission. I have no idea what justifies the higher costs of the Zenith???

The P3L is illuminated mildot. Only the center cross lights up.

The only difference AFAIK, between the Zenith and the Klassik is the overall length. I have one each in 2.5-10x56, and they are functionally the same.

I also call BS on glare with respect to S&B. I shot my biggest deer ever looking into the evening sun setting on a hill. The reticle changed color a little, but the glass stayed clear, and I nailed my deer at 275 yards.

I’ve sold most all my Schmidt’s, awesome glass in most every respect, same for build quality, glare is a total no go for me for the coin they demand. I’ve had most pm2’s of about every flavor, most classics, 4 zeniths, the latest being an ultra bright in hopes of a change, nope, still a major glare issue at power. It’s mainly on clear days looking anywhere near the west at dusk, it’s also primarily at power. For me it’s usually around 10x and above, then they become literally almost unusable, worse that some sub $500 scopes.

Again for me that’s a no go, to many other scopes that have better glare control. As to the Z to classic I personally prefer the classic as long as it’s got the right eyepiece, there’s 2 different ones, one being straight and one having a step up in size about halfway back. This is only my experience and relevant if we’re talking hunting and mainly late at certain angles, prs doesn’t much matter, great scopes.

Interesting. I’ve never heard of S&B having this problem with glare. I have had a similar problem with a different scope on a rising sun and just assumed any scope would do this on the right conditions. Wondering if this is truly unique to S&B.

Anyone know the difference between Klassik line vs Zenith? Lens coatings, internals?

Just had this issue on a low power Zeiss and thought it was the same across optics. I could see the depth the lens sits in the tube maybe influencing light directly hitting the objective lens. I’ve not played around much with sun shields but imagine they impact low light performance to some degree.

The S&Bs struggle to deal with glare is what caused me to move on from them. I’ve owned PMIIs, Klassiks, and Zenith models. The $500 Leupold Mark 3 I had handled glare infinitely better than my 3-12 Klassik.

Absolutely love S&B outside of that too. It was a tough pill to swallow.

Not to hijack, but what is the glare that folks are talking about. I don't notice anything in my Polar and 1 of my tower stands faces into the sunset.