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Lookin good... wet sand with mineral spirits. I wouldn't recommend a second coat of epoxy. As for Tru oil being too shiny... cut down finish with rottenstone... a nice classy satin will be the result


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Don't care for the True Oil gloss either.

These work great for de-glossing:

https://www.mrclean.com/en-us/shop-products/magic-erasers/magic-eraser-original


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Looks great. Just remember no matter how much shine you want in the end always use a gloss finish.

Matte and satin finishes have solids as flattening agents typically silica that over time will get pulled out of the finish and create little holes that moisture can get into and ruin the finish.

Once the gloss finish is built up thick enough to your liking and fully cured there are about 100 ways to mechanically flatten it down (rottenstone, burlap, magic eraser, white scotch brite etc) to your liking that won’t leave pits in the finish.

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That Richard's stock looks pretty good. You're doing great, your boy is going to love that rifle!

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First - seeing this pop up again makes me happy. Wish more of these threads ran free and wild on this forum.

One of the qualities of epoxy as a sealer coat is that it tends to 'reveal' the chatoyance of the wood as well as shellac and oil (when used as a sealer or not). Some might argue...eye of the beholder and all that stuff. Shellac was the standard for a very long time simply because of a method of application, french polish. <-no one is interested in that anymore because of the sure to follow trip to the doctors office to find out whats wrong with your arm.

In consideration of the oil you choose, I'm not sure I'd get too lost in the woods on this. Find an oil you like that has a resin in it, and do your thing. Arguments about this oil being better than that oil constitute the life spans of many a dead woodworker. I'll even confess that I find myself in the weeds again when I'm digging through MSDS sheets trying to find out how much resin, and what kind, is actually in the can that has the pretty label. You could even make your own. 80% of the total volume would be 2 parts BLO and 1 part thinner (mineral spirits or turpentine), and the remaining portion would be 20% spar varnish of a reputable make. The spar varnish contains the resin.

My opinion here; whatever you do, a little resin in the oil is a step in the right direction. The SDS's, or MSDS's' (whichever you prefer to call them) USUALLY have that information on them. I looked up the Minwax Antique Oil Finish you mentioned, and I couldn't find the resin on it. But, it's 6:30am and I might have glazed right over it. Compare that to the Tried and True Varnish Oil MSDS and you'll se that it mentions the resin name (Sylvetac?). Probably a proprietary resin that if revealed, would be a common resin slightly modified.

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Mrfixit Offline OP
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Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions. I went out to the shop to get a look at the stock after the epoxy had cured, I think it looks good. I only found one small run and it was on the bottom of the butt under the recoil pad.

I have had a couple of back and forth private messages with Sitka deer, starting back before I even started this project. Art (Sitka) was kind enough to give me a call and we spoke for about a half hour. Art was very gracious and helpful. Since I had wanted to do 'his' version of the epoxy stock seal and finish, I asked for his instructions. I have decided to follow his directions. The stock is cured now, next I will sand with wet-or-dry paper using water as lubrication. Right now the stock feels as if I had just raised the whiskers on the wood, of course that is the epoxy. I will sand it down smooth with the wet-or-dry while keeping from sanding through the epoxy itself. After sanding I will be applying Tru Oil. I will deal with the shine after it is finished.

After looking all over the internet and reading about all the different ways to finish a stock, I feel like tradition demands I do 'extra'. Maybe some type of incantation or chant as I apply? Maybe the Tru Oil should only be applied on days immediately following a full moon? I think when I apply the Tru Oil I will make sure I have an old copy of Outdoor Life opened to an article by Jack O'Connor near by. At the very least I will, at some point, rub the finish with my bare hand. That way I can say in all truth that is it a "hand rubbed oil finish".

Actually the final finish of the stock will come after a lil more work. Specifically I will fit the action and bottom metal again and make sure the epoxy didn't interfere with the fit. After that I will most likely apply some Pro Bed 2000 to the stock under the action, around the recoil lug and under the first portion of the barrel. Then the oil finish.

Not gonna lie, I'm cautiously excited for how this is starting to look. I'm also a bit nervous. The closer it gets to completion, the easier it would be to screw it all up. Moving slow. Still trying to decide how I want to do the latch on the magazine floorplate.

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Just found this thread and, I must say, you are a true artist. And thanks for sharing with us. That rifle is going to be a dandy.



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Have you done a second coat of epoxy on this yet? I'm guessing its for pore filling and coverage of any sand throughs...

I bought System Three Clear Coat (low viscosity). It's pretty close to something like heavy water. I still have a long way to go before I get to this stage, but I wanted to see if you'd had a chance to tackle the second coat yet, and get your take on the pore filling properties of that second coat.

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I had forgotten about this thread, love the progress. Hope to do a few more like these for my kids. Wife’s is nearly done.


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I haven't forgot about the project or the report. We've had some busy weekends, we went to see a grandbaby in Arkansas, the next weekend we went to youngest son's college graduation, and then Christmas and new years. I haven't been in the shop in weeks except for a few moments here and there. I'm back on this though.

The stock looks pretty good with the one coat of epoxy, I'm not sure I'm going to do another and will likely go straight to the finish. I did have some problems with the epoxy I'll go over, nothing major but had a few runs and things.

I'm also having to do some work on fixtures for my lathe and mill so I can do the work on the gun itself.......it's always something seems like

Updates coming.

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A Mauser without sights is like a mouse without ears.


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Originally Posted by MS9x56
A Mauser without sights is like a mouse without ears.


Amen

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It's going to have optical sights!


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Originally Posted by MS9x56
A Mauser without sights is like a mouse without ears.

+1 -----> I had nice sights put on my 98 project with full intention of never using them.

The gunsmith asked me if I would be using them and was not surprised at my answer.

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Mrfixit Offline OP
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Originally Posted by MS9x56
A Mauser without sights is like a mouse without ears.

I understand the sentiment, and I'm conflicted about it. I do have a set of sights, NECG front and back with leaf flip safari style sights. But I'm not putting them on this rifle. I like, and more importantly my son likes the smooth lines without sights. In all honesty I will show him the gun with sights just sitting on it to let him see what it 'could' look like and let him choose. But as it is now, from planning discussions we had prior to starting, it will have a smooth barrel topped with a 3.5-10x42 Leupold.

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Originally Posted by Mrfixit
I wanted to update since I won't get anything else done until next weekend at the earliest. I went back to the shop and looked the stock over again, fresh after a break from yesterday. I found a couple small places that I decided to do a lil touch up sanding on. I de-whiskered again and finish sanded again to 320.

I'm lucky to have a regular kitchen oven in my shop, it was one we took out when I added on to the house. With the racks removed the stock fit inside from corner to corner. With the stock out of the oven, I turned the oven on to the "warm" setting which is about 175*F. I let it warm up for a bit and then put the stock inside. I left the stock in the oven with the oven on to warm for about 10 minutes and then turned the oven off. I let the stock stay inside to 'soak' in the heat for a while. Overall I think the stock was in the oven about 20 minutes or so, possibly 30. I used a laser thermometer to check the temp of the wood, when I pulled it out the butt of the stock was about 150*, and the forend was 165*.

As I said I had some West System 105 resin and 209 extra slow hardener. I mixed a total of about 1 1/2 cups of epoxy, I didn't need nearly that much. I think about a half cup would have been enough. I used a paint brush to 'slosh' it on the stock, all over inside and out including the end of the butt and the end of the grip. I basically kept adding epoxy and kept it completely covered thick in the liquid. After about 30 minutes I couldn't see any more soaking in so I started wiping it off. We'll see how it cures, but here is a couple pics of it hanging, it really has some nice figure. Not sure what to call it, fiddle back? Tiger stripes?
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

As I understand it, I will need to do just a little light sanding to the epoxy. Something like a finish sanding and maybe do one more coat of epoxy without the heat along with another finish sanding. Then I'll do an oil finish on top. To my understanding the oil finish is just for looks since the epoxy seals the stock, so any of the oil finishes should work. I am asking for suggestions on which one to use. I have on hand
*Watco Danish Oil
*Minwax Antique Finish
*pure Tung Oil

I'm not against getting another finish to use, just telling you what I have right now. I'm not a fan of True Oil finish, to me it's too shiny.
What I want is a nice finish that will not hide the wood but not be glossy, I'm looking for satin at the most. Before I add the oil finish I will add some bedding compound around the recoil lug and under the barrel. Oil finish will be last. And of course I will need to do something about checkering.....

At this point I'm back to doing some metal work. I still have to modify the striker for the 3 position safety. I also have to hinge the floor plate and make a latch. I think pretty much after that it's just chamber and metal finish.

Thanks to all for the encouragement and compliments. I'm always looking for feedback and better ideas.
FWIW the mottled figure is called "bee's wing"


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Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
FWIW the mottled figure is called "bee's wing"

Thank you for all the help. I've also seen it referred to as Chatoyance.

The epoxy on the stock gave me one issue. when I hung it up to dry after wiping down, I had just a bit of epoxy pool in the low points of the inletting. nothing major but it was a bit of a pain to re-inlet.

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Yep. I cut off the majority of the epoxy from my nose cap attachment with a chisel. Seemed to have a healthy disregard for the delicate edge I often work to keep.

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Originally Posted by Mrfixit
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
FWIW the mottled figure is called "bee's wing"

Thank you for all the help. I've also seen it referred to as Chatoyance.

The epoxy on the stock gave me one issue. when I hung it up to dry after wiping down, I had just a bit of epoxy pool in the low points of the inletting. nothing major but it was a bit of a pain to re-inlet.

Chatoyancy is the refraction that goes on down in the wood, and most types of figure are a function of that light coming back out. So it is chatoyant, but bee's wing is far more specific


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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