Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing looking for checkering tools

The Mauser rifle I'm building for my son is coming along. I'm getting to the point that I can start to see light at the end of the tunnel. One of the tasks ahead will be checkering the wood stock. I have a couple of cutters and one handle. I'm looking for a set to get it done with.

This will be in Claro Walnut, and I'm thinking 18lpi is what I need. There seems to be lots of places listed with out of stock on the kits. And to be honest, I don't know enough about the different brands to know which I want. So folks, if you would be so kind as to make recommendations I would greatly appreciate it. Basically looking at starting from scratch at the tools to checker a rifle stock. Sources would be appreciated as well.

All suggestions are greatly appreicated.

Scott

Put a want ad in the classifieds here on the 'fire, I've had good luck finding things there.

There are a lot of checkering tools for sale on ebay. The Dembart and Gunline sets are both very good tools. If you get the 6 tool sets you should have all your bases covered for now...

I went through this last year, and ended up getting a carbide set from Ullman. https://www.ullmanprecision.com/

I have yet to use them however, because it seems there's no decent checkering cradle around anymore and a fellow must make his own. So before I use my spiffy new tools I have to figure that out. I plan on doing at least a few stocks once I figure this out so the carbide made alot of sense. That and the fact that dembart and gunline don't seem to be available generally and apparently dull up quickly.

Doesn't matter much which brand, what matters is sticking to that brand after you get started. Jumping around among makes will exaggerate the learning/mastering curve.

Hardware isn't the issue though. The most important tool lies inside your head, and how well the brain/eye/hands work together. Good lighting and a decent cradle are next in importance.

Knock a cradle together out of scrap wood. It doesn't have to be pretty, and there's plans for making them out there, or just consult some photographs. In a pinch you can nestle it in a few sand bags but that limits versatility.

I started with Dembart, long ago in a galaxy far away. Sure, the cutters get dull but several panels can be executed before that happens. Cutters used to be dirt cheap and omnipresent but not so much any more. Good thing that I'm winding down my checkering so that isn't a huge issue.

18 LPI is tough to get started on.

I have a full set of Dembarts, 16 LPI on the 2-3 balded cutters, plus a few extras, maybe 10-12 handles all with cutters, a few packs of extra cutters, and a few specialty files.

I tried to re-cut some checkering a few days ago and didn't do very well. I am on the near side of 80 with old arthritic fingers and some loss of control form are recent stroke. I can't do it anymore.

If interested and if we can come up with a fair price, I might sell. I could spread everything out and take a photo.

As far as cradles, I have never used one and have done a fairly decent job IMO. Undoubtedly they would help though. I can post some photos of completed jobs

Educational moment: Why is 18 tough to get started on? to fine?

Long story- I had a checkering cradle about 25 years ago that my dad built for me. I had him build it because at the time I was about to start on my middle son's rifle. Turned out he decided to go with a laminated stock and we didn't checker it at all. The cradle was adjustable in 3 axis, and was built with a chair on it. I hate to say that time and water got to it, it was mostly out of plywood and delaminated. Also back then I bought a couple handles and cutters, all Dembarts. I don't have all of it left, the ones I had/have are 18lpi.

I had the VHS version of the AGI video series building a custom Mauser with Gene Shuey. I seem to recall some discussion about what LPI to use. For whatever reason I seem to have the impression that 18 and finer were better, and that 16lpi was to course. I really don't know what that is based on. I guess I need to find some examples to look at.

Saddlesore, my grandfather used to build and refinish steamer trunks. I remember when he stopped doing it because he said he couldn't do as good a job as he used to be able to.

18 LPI too fine? I don't think so, that's a pretty common size on factory rifles. You haven't lived until you've done 26 LPI. Freshened a 28 LPI pattern on a German rifle once, not likely to do that ever again!

Dem Bart was where most of us amateurs started...and back in the day, that worked well enough. Maybe just my imagination, but the replacement cutters I have bought in the last few years seem to dull much more rapidly. A widow woman gave me some of her deceased husbands checkering tools probably from the '50's or earlier...non replaceable type, brand unknown....they will cut cleanly when a Dembart just slides, or fuzzes crossgrain, and stay sharp.

With epoxy on claro 18lpi should be just fine. 16 looks too coarse to my eye and finer will be more difficult. Claro is usually pretty open pored with a tendecy to grab a bit.

I suggest starting on the rifle's left side fore arm panel. (Opposite the bolt side) The grip is trickier because of the extra epoxy sucked up by endgrain in the heated grip versus the sidegrain. The endgrain may very well cause the cutter to skate if you are not careful.

Many believe in checkering a junk stock for practice. I find there is too much effort required for something without value, long term. A set of 1911 grips is an ideal practice project without the huge time investment, high probability of success, and true functionality.

IIRC there are instructions in Kennedy's book to make checkering tools...

Two reasons. Aging eyes make it harder for me, even with a magnifying visor and reading glasses.

2nd reason, I want the checkering to be functional, not just look good. For me anyway, the finer checking doesn't give the extra grip that I want. Others might not think so, but I do mostly my own rifles that I also make the stocks for so it is up to me, not what others think. It is one of those things that it works for me, but maybe not for others. I am not claiming, my way is he only way, just an option. Same as me checkering before finishing, where most say checker after. I don't like to continually keep cleaning the finish material out of the cutters. Granted not much difference between 16 and18 LPI, but for me there is.

My other advice is don't try to checker laminated stocks. Dulls cutters very fast and diamond will break off. My experience only.

I have posted this stock before, I don't think it looks too rough.Others may not agree .That 's fine .

The Ullman tools are very nice and solid carbide cutters so they stay sharp for a very long time. But hope you have deep pockets, they aren't cheap...

I just recut the 22 LPI checkering on a Winchester 75 Sporting with my Dembart tools and had to repair a couple spots so I had to buy the 22 LPI left and right cutters. Surprisingly, it went very well and came out almost like a factory job. Mostly the checkering was filled with finish from several refinishes but I refinished the stock after stripping and recut the checkering to get the finish out of the lines to sharpen the points. With proper light and a magnifying visor I was able to get it done with a minimum amount of frustration by keeping my patience levels in check...

I started out with a 20 LPI Dembart Master set but I never felt comfortable doing a complete stock from scratch until now..

That looks nice, and I agree that it doesn't look to course. I'll send you a PM

Scott

photo and PM sent

Checkering was always a simple job for me. I started in 1957 with hand made tools. I quit using the standard brands of checkering tools about 40 yrs ago. Carbide is the best way to buy as they will last the rest of your life time. I use the MMC power tool for all of my spacing and then finish up with the hand tools.

After teaching checkering and stockmaking I wrote up articles on making your own handles and I use air to blow away the dust so you can speed up the process. Pictures of my set up are available and most of the things were written for the beginner to understand. I have a DCD available with video and tools to make things easier. Send a PC message and I will try to help all wanting to do their own stock work. I am not too active on forums as I need 2 yrs to hit 90.

Les Brooks, retired after fulltime gunsmithing 50's yrs

https://i.postimg.cc/8cN28wf0/checkering-1.jpg

Here is my set up