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On those POS swaro's, I set the zero stop at 200, pointer at 300 and the 3 stupid little dots at 400, 500 and 600. But since you only get one turret rev, most cals can't even make it to the 600 with a 200 yard zero......

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Originally Posted by huntsman22
On those POS swaro's, I set the zero stop at 200, pointer at 300 and the 3 stupid little dots at 400, 500 and 600. But since you only get one turret rev, most cals can't even make it to the 600 with a 200 yard zero......

Try turning the scope around, you are looking through it backwards. It would also help to put it on something besides a BB gun that will shoot flat enough that you don't need 3 revolutions to get past 50 yards...


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Originally Posted by shrapnel
Originally Posted by huntsman22
On those POS swaro's, I set the zero stop at 200, pointer at 300 and the 3 stupid little dots at 400, 500 and 600. But since you only get one turret rev, most cals can't even make it to the 600 with a 200 yard zero......

Try turning the scope around, you are looking through it backwards. It would also help to put it on something besides a BB gun that will shoot flat enough that you don't need 3 revolutions to get past 50 yards...

This will be funny.

Shrappy Baldwin might want to slow his roll but I don't see that happening.

Maybe he will post pictures of his goto SWARO and the connection of the DOTS to the range as the picture he stole of the net would get to about 350yds from a 200yds zero.

But then we will have to wonder why he didn't just post his own setup from the get go?

[Linked Image from external-content.duckduckgo.com]


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We help a great many folks zero their rifles at my local range. We can shoot out to 650 or so with targets at 100,200 and 235 on one range and then steel at 150, 250,350,450, 550, and 600. Whether dialing or using the Ballistic plex or what ever we get folks hitting at various ranges. The next week not sure they can hit the berm. I try to get them to mark a 100yd zero as it makes it much easier to recheck their zero. Surprising how many folks do not want to walk back to the 100 yd range and a paper target to see what is happening. We also consistently find loose mounts and scopes that flat do not work. My favorite is when you remove the scope and it rattles. Surprising how often the same scope will show up later with the same person on a different rifle.
Where ever you zero have some way to verify. Murphy was an optimist.


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Originally Posted by Teal
Set at 100 - dial all the rest.
Originally Posted by NVhntr
Zero at 100 and use the CDS turret as it was intended.
+1 same as these guys


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Originally Posted by JohnBurns
Originally Posted by shrapnel
Originally Posted by huntsman22
On those POS swaro's, I set the zero stop at 200, pointer at 300 and the 3 stupid little dots at 400, 500 and 600. But since you only get one turret rev, most cals can't even make it to the 600 with a 200 yard zero......

Try turning the scope around, you are looking through it backwards. It would also help to put it on something besides a BB gun that will shoot flat enough that you don't need 3 revolutions to get past 50 yards...

This will be funny.

Shrappy Baldwin might want to slow his roll but I don't see that happening.

Maybe he will post pictures of his goto SWARO and the connection of the DOTS to the range as the picture he stole of the net would get to about 350yds from a 200yds zero.

But then we will have to wonder why he didn't just post his own setup from the get go?

[Linked Image from external-content.duckduckgo.com]


You got me, I have to rely on the internet to find relevant pictures and I just found another one...





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Originally Posted by shrapnel
You got me, I have to rely on the internet to find relevant pictures and I just found another one...
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

LOL.

Connect those dot setting to ranges on those rifles.

Start top to bottom with bullet and velocity and the range each dot was set.

You're to dumb to understand we can all see none of the optics have been setup for ranges.

[Linked Image from external-content.duckduckgo.com]


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A barn is a good place to sight in.


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Originally Posted by jwp475
I zero at 200 which means I seldom need to dial while hu ting most of my shot are from 100 to 250 with an occasional 300. This setting makes dialing unnecessary for most of my hunting

I do the same

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100 yards!

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Originally Posted by huntsman22
Originally Posted by KillerBee
With my Bausch and Lomb Elite on my .30-06 I zeroed it at 200, with most shots being well under 300 yards.

With My Huskemaw Blue Diamond on my .300 Win Mag not sure because the turret was ranged and etched by my gunsmith,

That's the funniest thing I've read on here yet......

I am happy I amuse you huntsman22 lol

Would you like to know my reasoning why I had my Gunsmith range and set up my Blue Diamond, once I explain, it will probably make more sense?

By the way great Avatar, and nice Stetson!

KB

Last edited by KillerBee; 01/12/23.

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I doubt it. If you explained it, you probably still wouldn't know where it was zero'ed.....

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What's amazing is no one even mentioning knowing what the trajectory is first...


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Originally Posted by Greyghost
What's amazing is no one even mentioning knowing what the trajectory is first...


Phil

Needs to be zeroed first



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Originally Posted by huntsman22
I doubt it. If you explained it, you probably still wouldn't know where it was zero'ed.....

I don't need to know with my Huskemaw, but I am prepared to explain if you like? I can find out with 1 phone call.

I can understand how that sounds funny, but there is really no need to know with my Huskemaw. With my BSA P17, that is an entirely different matter and I have to know where it is zeroed, in fact I zeroed it myself.

Not trying to be confrontational, just trying to give you some insight, because I know it will make sense to you, if I do :o)


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Not if you have no idea what your trajectory is, or is going to be...

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One of my favorite articles on trajectory and testing...

.45-70 at Two Miles: The Sandy Hook Tests of 1879

Link

4 pages...


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Originally Posted by KillerBee
Originally Posted by huntsman22
I doubt it. If you explained it, you probably still wouldn't know where it was zero'ed.....

I don't need to know with my Huskemaw, but I am prepared to explain if you like? I can find out with 1 phone call.

I can understand how that sounds funny, but there is really no need to know with my Huskemaw. With my BSA P17, that is an entirely different matter and I have to know where it is zeroed, in fact I zeroed it myself.

Not trying to be confrontational, just trying to give you some insight, because I know it will make sense to you, if I do :o)

I think his point is - if someone else did load development and etched the turret - all it takes is variation in that load components to make all of it useless. Change from base to ogive in a different lot of bullets - you're off at range. Change in powder consistency, brass volume, primer ignition - all off and different.


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Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by KillerBee
Originally Posted by huntsman22
I doubt it. If you explained it, you probably still wouldn't know where it was zero'ed.....

I don't need to know with my Huskemaw, but I am prepared to explain if you like? I can find out with 1 phone call.

I can understand how that sounds funny, but there is really no need to know with my Huskemaw. With my BSA P17, that is an entirely different matter and I have to know where it is zeroed, in fact I zeroed it myself.

Not trying to be confrontational, just trying to give you some insight, because I know it will make sense to you, if I do :o)

I think his point is - if someone else did load development and etched the turret - all it takes is variation in that load components to make all of it useless. Change from base to ogive in a different lot of bullets - you're off at range. Change in powder consistency, brass volume, primer ignition - all off and different.

Good morning Teal, I trust your coffee was good this AM and your day has started off well.

Your summary is pretty much spot on, with the exception that I do not load my own rounds,, neither did my gunsmith, but they did etch the turret and tested 5 different rounds/Brands at their 800yard range through the new barrel I put on it, to find the best round for that particular barrel.

I only shoot factory rounds. With my custom built .300 Win Mag Weatherby I shoot Nosler Trophy Grade ABLRs in 190gr. If I switched rounds I would have to get another turret etched to match the ballistics, so you are correct.

There is a little more to the story, since I altered this rifle from its factory state, which shot like chit. To make a long story short, it is a LR Killing machine now and it definately was not that out of the box.

Have a great Thursday!

KB

Last edited by KillerBee; 01/12/23.

KB


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Originally Posted by KillerBee
...it is a LR Killing machine now...

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