Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Help me build an AR

Just because a 1/7 is moot, doesn’t mean it’s bad. 1/7 is what most of mine are but I’ve had 1/8’s and a few 1/9’s.

A true 1/9 will work with most bullets that fit in the mag constraints. But not all 1/9’s are true. So 1/8 or 1/7 is what to grab, you won’t notice any difference if you actually shoot.

My only complaint about 1-7 twist rifles is that some bullets will not shoot well out of them, early thin jacketeted soft points. I shoot the 75 gr. BTHP pretty much exclusively out of them anyway so no problem here.

3rd post in is by Stick he told you to build a peezer. I did exactly that couple of years a go it shoots super. I really like mine...mb

Fhuqktard,

Reserve RPM is a boolit's best friend. It simply bolsters BC and enhances Terminal Effects. Some are into cans and Reserve RPM do numerous Subsonic favors there and in all atmospheres,despite not being my World. Hint.

Your haste to schlep Fhuqking STUPIDITY,to places it's never been before,is funnier than fhuqk...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Bless your poor poor(literally) heart,for trying though.

Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............

C'mon folks, NDsnowman is looking for info on building an AR, not listen to y'all play grabazz over twist rate.
You ask me, go 1:8 and it does a pretty fair job with whatever bullet weight you choose.

The PSA "kit" may be a very good deal. I just like
"e"-shopping for parts and waiting for them to come in.

NDsnowman, if you aren't interested in surfing the net for parts, that PSA kit looks pretty good....but you only get what PSA sends you.
Want a little customization?
Go "e"-shopping!

The Kit I cited,simply exists,was ready to ship and setting atop a Silver Platter. Hint.

In no particular fhuqking order,I have 223's in 7",8",9",10,12" and 14" RPM. Multiples of which,are the very kit plainly cited in 7" RPM. Hint.

Hell...some folks even load long in the 7" RPM Krunchenticker and shoot singles. Not my jam,but possible. Hint.

Nothing else comes even close,to that which I cited. Hint.............

I wanted a diversion and thought about assembling an AR from decent quality components. What I found is, you can sink $1800 or so into an AR that's about the same quality as one that can be put together for about half that by purchasing a barreled upper and assembling a lower from components.

Specifically, I wanted to assemble a retro "ish" AR with the long gas system, pencil barrel, 3 prong flash hider, trianglular hand guards, etc.

I learned that the retro AR market is "busy" these days. It's difficult to find even reproductions of the retro parts and when you do the price for them is seriously elevated.

My 500 buck 1:7 SS 556 peezer as y’all call em. Shoots pretty well.

Nobody calls them "peezer" except one person.
Why would anybody type 6 letters when they can type 3 except to be a cutie pie?

I did not read all the replies.

Do you reload. If so any bear creek complete upper we have bought for the 200 dollar area on sale has shot MOA and just under.

Thats a complete upper.

Buy a lower, without trigger. Put in a La Rue or RRA 2 stage.

You won't need anything else. At all. Well sights yes..

That said 3 things that matter. If I'm after the most accuracy I will get a top line barrel specifically made by someone like White Oak. Not a bins barrel ready to go but something like a Rock, Obermeyer, maybe even Shilen even though I am not totally sold on them. Krieger rolls pretty good too and there are others. Cut will last longer than buttoned.

After that the trigger allows you to shoot the gun better. Take your pick but the top ones I mentioned are good enough and better than lots of others. Spending a bit more if we were in competition we would be running Geiselle...

Float tubes. Really makes zero difference RE quality basically. Hogue has shot as well as others but if you aren't going to shoot it slung up or off a bipod you don't actually need one though most come set up with one these days.

Good mount for your optics would be 4, but then mount and optics for any rifle have to be solid. And I've shot some stupid small groups like around an inch at 600 yards for 5 shots with some pretty lame mounts over the years.

Twist. No less than 8 IMHO. no flies on faster even up to about 6.5 twist. But 8 seems a good deal unless you are going to shoot a lot of stuff past 300 single loaded etc...then I've seen 7 and 6.5 twist outshoot the 8s and 9s but we are nit picking now.

The rest of the parts of the gun are really of zero importance for the most part. Yup you can find uber cheap that have bad parts or parts won't last but they are not that common these days.

Do it however you want. Assembly is easy. Other than threading and setting up the barrel and gas port etc... but thats not what most refer to when they say build and AR. They mean parts monkey it together,

Joy is you can buy what floats your boat and thats what matters.

BTW I've yet to have a blemish part be bad.. function wise. Generally its hard to see the blemish too...not that I could care about looks

NDsnowman, check your PMs.

Aqualung

Good post. And for what most do here, a 1 in 9 will work just fine. I fling a lot of 69 SMK's with one of mine with no issues at all. A lot of guys want to think they are long range superstars with their 16" barreled AR's and suggest fast twists, when they really don't have a clue. The majority of AR barrels are 1 in 8 anyway and that works for damn near any application. Just to keep schidt simple..