Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Reloading Kits

I'm trying to get started into reloading. I've been looking at the kits offered by RCBS, Lyman and Hornady. I've matched the items for each and RCBS & Lyman are the same (Hornady does not come with a trimmer). I like the idea of set-up on the Lock-N-Load by Hornady, but can do the same with the T-mag press by Lyman or get a Lock-N-Load conversion kit for the RCBS. Price on the RCBS is the highest, Hornady the lowest. Do any of you have any experence with the Lyman T-mag press, as the others are O-presses and the Lyman is a turret. Is one better than the other? I'm going to be loading for four different calibers and would like to leave my dies set when I switch to another caliber.<BR>Thanks if you can help me make up my mind...<BR>Den-Den

Den-Den<BR>Have not looked through the specific kits you are looking at, but have been disappointed in Hornady dies. The 2 sets I purchased recently were ridiculously stiff and rough when neck-sizing. RCBS dies on the exact same brass were nice and smooth acting.<P>Also got a die clearly marked 243, which is a 7mm-08 die, with 243 expander ball.<BR>art

I read your post earlier, and another about adjusting problems. I'm going to use RCBS dies for my 7mm-08 & 223. From what I have read elsewhere, I'm going with Lee w/factory crimp on my 444. Have not made up my mind on the 44 mag. though I will look at carbide dies for it.<BR>Den-Den

den-den: i use rcbs, just about exclusively. i haven't had any problems to date w/ anything rcbs. the only thing i have had a problem w/ is my brass tumbler, but it is cabela's brand (and probably my fault, anyway).<P>i went w/ the rcbs stuff because it has a reputation for being pretty solid and reliable, and so, far, it is. it is, however, a real pain as far as die changes go. i load for 7 calibers, and it seems that a lot of time gets eaten up setting dies up.

I would suggest RCBS. Good product, good people, lasts forever. Pay the few extra dollars you'll never regret it.

Got a chance to buy a used RCBS Jr. press from a friend. Link set-up is different from the Rock Chucker. Some scratches and a little rust, missing the die bushing and the primer tubes. How much is it worth? Is this a good press to start with? Wondering if the kits are the way to go, as I still have to get the extra's and that may be cheaper in the long run. I already have the Speer Manual #13 (got it last year to read up on).<BR>Den-Den

This is how I would come up with an offer price. <BR>I'd look up the individual prices of all the stuff that would come with the kit, add them together, get replacement cost for parts missing from RCBS then add ten dollars now subtract this total from the price of a new kit! Provided your not in the negative this should give you a starting point to bid with. I would dare say you'd come out ahead with the kit.<P>If you do decide to purchase: Don't worry bout the rust and scratches, won't hurt it a bit, gives it some character. (who owns a rifle with out character? I don't.)<P>Just my opinion. <BR>Mind you I don't know much bout the Jr press.<BR>Good luck

Thanks for the input Blammer, but too late. Ordered the RCBS Master kit today. Even ordered extra goodie's that I think I need. Even ordered a stuck case remover (thinkin ahead). The only problem was the money was flowing and didn't think it was going to stop. Still have to get the shell holders, dies, powder, primers and bullets. This is getting expensive! You know how much factory ammo one can get for $500. This will be my new hobby, so if it keeps me busy, money well spent. I've saved all my brass over the years (16+), so thats one thing I don't need to get. Overall, which brass is the best? What I see posted says Winchester. I like the Federal Factory shells, so I will try some of those. Only thing now, is to wait till it gets here.<BR>Good Reloading...<BR>Den-Den

congratulations on your new toy!<P>the first few times i tried to load my own, i got very frustrated. the loads weren't working out, and it took an immense amount of time. i didn't have access to any help, either. i didn't know anybody who reloaded, and hadn't found this board. times have changed now!<P>i'm still pretty new to reloading, but at least some of my loads are delivering. thanks, in no small part, to this board. this board can be a valuable resource, especially for a new reloader. use it often!<P>good luck!

den-den:<BR>You won't regret buying RCBS equipment. Dollar for dollar it's the best stuff on the market. I bought their RCBS Reloader Special kit over 30 yrs. ago and am still using it. Granted the press (I believe its the JR) doesn't have the compound leverage setup as does the Rockchucker but I don't swage bullets or anything with it and have never seen the need to upgrade. If I ever do upgrade, however, you can bet it will be with RCBS equipment.

I would suggest you keep like kind of cases together for load development. Winchester to Winchester, Speer to Speer, etc... I have discovered that different cases definetly affect the performance desired and mixing cases is bad ju ju. It will be easier load development when using like cases.<P>I would recommend getting the RCBS dies and appropriate shell holder. I would only purchase one die to start with. Pick you fav caliber/rifle and plan to reload for that first.<P>I have several years experience reloading, as do many others here on the board. If you need help or have even the simplest of qestions do not hesitate to ask, we will be glad to guide you.<P>Your reloading kit will definitely keep you occupied for several hours. Right now you may not realize any "real" savings, but it is a hobby. No body ever has a hobby to save money, it is just a running joke we reloaders have that you "save money" reloading. [img]images/icons/laugh.gif" border="0[/img] [img]images/icons/laugh.gif" border="0[/img] It is the best excuse us married types have to allow us to buy more stuff! [img]images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0[/img] <P>seriously though, you will be able to see significant savings the longer and more you reload. Plus you have the added benefit of crafting something you can be proud of!<P>Oh yea! you will need to get a caliper! to measure your cases to make sure they are not too long! very important, then you will need a trimmer to trim them when they are too long, you will see! Then more qestions, hey! more fun on the board and at the bench!

Thanks Blammer. All last week I was sorting brass by manufacturer and tumbling. I bought my tumbler first, and figured to get started on that as I figured it would take some time to clean all those cases I saved over the years. Just waiting for my kit to come in. I got the calipers, and other extra's that I figured I needed. Went to the local gun shop today, and bought a used carbide die set (RCBS in 44 mag.) from I guy who just came in to unload some dies. For $10 and looked almost new, I figured it was to good to pass up. Wasn't going to get that set till later, so tonite I gathered up my 44 mag. brass and went to tumbling. Going to start reloading the 7mm-08 first as I got a pile of brass. Figured I'll start with my favorite hunting round. Going to try to get as close to Federal Premimum ammo that my gun likes. Any help as to which load book to get the spec's for that ammo I'll be very thankful. Looking forward to tweaking a good round for my 223 as it sure needs it. Oh well, just waiting for the UPS man.<BR>Den-Den

in my rcbs kit, i got a speer reloading manual.<P>it's not a bad idea to have a couple different manuals on hand, though, and if you wanted another one for cross referencing i would reccomend noslers manual, or 'pet loads'.<P>one thing i have learned about reloading is that a ton of accuracy comes from case prep. be ready to spend the bulk of your time on cases. <P>using handloads, i have been able to better factory performance in the rifles i have loaded for, so i don't think you are asking too much to be able to better fed. premium loads.<P>good luck.

Well, everything came in this evening. Just to show you my luck, on my homemade table, the bolts were too long for the mounting of the press, so I put a support beam under the plywood top and the bolts were to short. Had to dig around to find some that fit. Looks to be a lot of drilling till I find the perfect spot for everything. Gonna have holes all over the table top (option would be the base plate from RCBS). Do any of you have any suggestions as to a suitable storage container for my powder & primers. Like to have everything in my shop, but too hot in the summer, and too cold in the winter. Like to stay away from storage in the house, as for safety concerns, space, and if its raining, don't have to carry them out to the shop in the rain. Thought of a old refrigerator, set it at the mim. setting and keep them in there, but it might be too damp for it. Any thoughts on this? Its going to take awhile to set every thing up, but I want to go slow and get it right. Bought a set of Midway calipers (made in China, yuck), I hope they are well enough made for the work involved. Bought the L-N-L bushing from Hornady, hope they work ok? Gotta buy a bigger cresent wrench just to remove the die bushing from the press. Everything looks well made and solid. I would recommend this kit for anyone getting started.<BR>Good Reloading...<BR>Den-Den

Den-Den, when I was welding, I used to use an old refrigerator to keep my rod hot and dry. Disconnect, and remove the compressor, evaporator, and plug any holes from removing any tubing. A 40 watt appliance bulb, wired direct burning fulltime inside would keep the rod just about perfect. Using a gunsafe's de-humidifier instead of the lightbulb, might be your answer. Don't know if it would be safe, most flamable storage cabinets have safty blow-out plugs. So don't go and do anything dangerous, but it might be something to look into.<P>Phil

Powder is provided in containers designed to rupture instead of containing the gases in case of ignition of the contents, so you won't have an "explosion" in case of some ignition source.<BR>As long as you keep the powders in the original containers and keep them cool and dry you should be fine. If you are concerned about security, you can buy some of those old school lockers with vents in the doors and a lock on the door latch. I've never heard of anyone ever having a problem with their powder or primers if they follow simple common sense rules. Modern smokeless powders aren't really as dangerous as most people seem to think- until you start putting them into small containers in improper quantities or with improper components. <BR>Follow simple safety rules with powder. Never have more than one powder on your bench at any time. When you are finished with that batch, replace the powder in the original container, seal the lid tightly and put it away before opening another can. If you get confused, simply throw the powder on the ground around your flowers, it makes great fertilizer. It isn't worth the price of a pound of powder to take even the slightest chance of putting the wrong thing in your cases/gun.<BR>Get yourself several different reloading manuals so you can compare loads and techniques from different manufacturers. Different manuals can and do have mistakes and/or loads that will be over max in your rifle, so pay attention the old adage- "start low and work your way up". Read all the information in several manuals about getting started and the nature of modern propellants. You will be surprised how much you will pick up from this information. <BR>Above all, ask plenty of questions here on this board. The experience here is better than most any manual. No question is a dumb question when it comes to reloading.<BR>Be safe- Sheister

For powder and primer storage I have used and still do use an insulated pic nic cooler. Mine is the 52 quart size made by Igloo. The insulation keeps changing temps which are the enemy of stored powder from varying too much. Coolers are cheap. They work well for storage, at least mine has for the last twenty years or so.<BR>BCR

Unless something bad happens I will never buy another set of dies that are not made by Redding! They are the smoothest inside, best knurling outside, use real steel set screws, and cost the same for two die sets as all of the competition.<P>Mike

The lyman manual explains step by step how to reload and what you are actually doing! It is also a pretty good source of load info.<P>Mike

If funds havn't dried up you might want to get that used press for when you load that 44. Pistols are a 3 step process and on a single stage pressit can get long. I got a piggyback for my rockchucker and love it. Before that I used 2 presses and it sure made it easier and faster. As far as saving money you really can if you shoot much at all. you can make some pretty impressive and accurate ammo at a fraction of what premium bullets run.Oh one thing I did is bolt my bench to the wall, I like sturdy and maybe over did it but it don't move or give. Make sure you got it setup for comfort too, after a while that will mean alot....