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maggie Offline OP
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I have an early 50's Ford 700 tractor with a positive ground electrical system, I have lost all spark to the points after tractor sat most of the winter, inside. Have tried changing coil, points, condenser, everything I can think of. Ignition switch is working, battery is charged, no mouse chewed wires etc., have read about everything I can find on it. If one of you is good at these systems, I would appreciate your thoughts and advice, maybe through PM's. Thanks.


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Check the fiber insulator washer under the screw that holds the points in the distributor.

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I would check all grounds throughout! Have you tried hot wiring it, to see if it will run that way.

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maggie Offline OP
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Bristoe, incoming PM, thanks.


"The day I went to work everybody showed up to watch Johnny Luster work. Well, they had a wheelbarrow there, and said I was to push that thing around all day. I looked at it, then turned around and headed for the mountians..."
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Start with the basics, do you have voltage to the coil?

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Originally Posted by chris_c
Start with the basics, do you have voltage to the coil?

^^^^This.


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Depending on what you find out is the issue, now may be an excellent time to convert it to a 12v system.....


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I am with the check coil voltage. 6 volts is not very high electrical potential so it may be as simple as an oxidized or corroded or lose connection.


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Be sure you have a fully charged battery and both cables are properly cleaned at both ends.
Clip a test light to the distributor side of the coil and crank the engine as to start it. Blinking light denotes points are opening and closing. Constant light means points open, not closing. No light means no power to the coil at all or points are constantly closed. Check inside the cap for arachnid (spider) nests or other foreign interference. If your points check was blinking, pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold it about 1/4 inch from a good ground and crank as if to start (it shouldn't) which should get you a snappy blue yellow spark and may try to ground through you. Enlightening. If no spark, your problem is between the battery and the ground side of the points. to eliminate the ignition switch and all other circuitry, you can hook a jumper wire directly from the non-grounded (negative) side of the battery to the NON DISTRIBUTOR side of the coil. If the coil and points are working it should start and run. To shut it off, remove the jumper wire. Good troubleshooting and good luck!

Last edited by autoshopteacher; 03/23/23. Reason: corrected info
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Send wabigoon a PM

He’s gonna be your go-to man.

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Not that it helps, but I am pretty sure I have some extra 6v regulators....just in case that is what's wrong.

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Originally Posted by Bristoe
Check the fiber insulator washer under the screw that holds the points in the distributor.

Ditto, ‘‘twas the problem on a positive ground vehicle I had, the insulator failed, in my case because I tightened it too hard and it was no longer acting as an insulation point.
Put a new insulating washer on and it was good to go.


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maggie Offline OP
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Thanks to everyone for your replies, I'm going to be working on it this weekend with some of the suggestions.


"The day I went to work everybody showed up to watch Johnny Luster work. Well, they had a wheelbarrow there, and said I was to push that thing around all day. I looked at it, then turned around and headed for the mountians..."
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I have a 52 8N Ford with 6 volt positive ground that did the same thing 2 yrs ago. There is a 2 post resistor on the inside panel below the steering wheel behind the tool box. Wires from the switch and voltage reg go on one side. The wire to the coil on the other side. Mine had crack causing it to ground out. I liked to have never figured it out. Replaced it and it's been fine every since. Also remember to discharge your voltage reg everytime you disconnect the battery.


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