Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles 280 to 280ai brass

Simple question, can you use 280ai dies to make 280 brass into 280ai or do you need to fireform them. Never had an AI cartridge and I tried google fu but came up empty.

Thanks gents

MM

You fireform it. Shooting .280 Rem in a .280 AI blows it out to fit the .280 AI chamber. Sometimes it may take two firings to fully form depending on headspace.

You have to fireform

You should feel slight resistance on bolt closing on a standard 280 rem case or round, on a 280 AI that is set up properly.

You have to fireform 280 REM to make 280 AI. Use a reduced load (per Nosler manual) and seat bullet to touch the lands in your rifle. One firing is all it takes.

Ok, thanks for the info very much appreciated

God bless,

MM

Like everyone said, fireform. Then determine if your chamber is 280 AI SAAMI or traditional 280 AI.

One is shorter than the other... Doesn't matter if only neck sizing, but does if full length sizing.

.004 is the difference ‘tween the two.

Pretty sure it is more like .016, which is significant.

Probably my favourite cartridge. I had a standard 280Rem previously and just couldn’t get it to shoot. Seems the barrel was a Friday afternoon manufacture after a long lunch. Rebarrelled it to the ai version and just shot my old reloads. Figured the Norma brass was too good to throw away. Hope you enjoy your new rifle.

https://redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/133-280-changes

.014 difference....

Been shooting a 280AI since it held status as a wildcat, i.e. pre-Nosler and SAAMI acceptance. Never once used a 'reduced' load to fireform. (Unless you want to count Remington's anemic 280 Rem Cir-Lokts as reduced loads.)

.

Where can I find this in Noslers manual #9?

Not the only place, but 1st place I looked.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0011550009/nosler-reloading-manual-number-9

My bad. I have the manual on hand. Just wanted to know where in the manual I can find the above mentioned information.

Yes, fire forming is necessary, as everyone has confirmed. However, I don't bother with that now that Nosler and Hornady sell .280 AI brass.

I may have misread your question. Sorry, it was late. Nosler #9 in the small print under Tech Info on p390 & 391 at the bottom gives a few hints.

For fire-forming, I've found that a close to max load for the parent case in a new parent case using a mid burner (3031 to 4064 or so on the burn chart) fills out the shoulders better than all the dicking around with corn meal, etc. Example-Nosler #9 shows 48.0 gr of 4064 as max with 120s in standard 280. I'd try a few at 47 to 47.5 & see how they form. It is rocket science in a way, but not exact so use your own judgement. A good place to use up partial cans of older/redundant powder & leftover bullets from odd boxes.

Setting proper headspace on the 1st firing is a good idea. Bullet jam doesn't always accomplish this, so you may have better results by doing some brass manipulation (false shoulder) if the headspace on the brass is too much shorter than the chamber. The point at the neck shoulder junction will be what contacts on the front end. You should feel some resistance to the bolt closing, but not so much that it takes 2 men & a boy to close it. Keep the back of the locking lugs lubed for this too.

In my Ackleys, the fireforming rounds can still be used for hunting if they shoot small enough. They'll be at a slightly reduced velocity. Once the case is formed you can start loading with Ackley data, or near max for the parent case & working up in small increments. A 1/2 gr at a time is workable for a 280 size case. Find pressure, back off a bit & go from there... seating depth, etc. A chronograph is a definite help during development.

Maybe start with 5 or 10 cases to see how it goes. Form & load them a few times to get a feel for the process before doing 50 or 100 & finding out there's something wrong. It can be a learning experience if you haven't done it before. Go slow, go far.

Thank you so much!! A lot of great information that I wasn't aware of before now.

This is my first Ackley so it will be a learning experience.

Looks like there is a lot more to it than I originally thought.

I full length size my brass. Any recommendation on dies for .280 AI?

Fancy that. Not setup to get notices, but was just wasting time surfing waiting for dinner & here this is again.

I like Redding or CH4D. I'm sure RCBS or Forster will be OK too. The 280 Ackley has SAAMI specs now. It depends on your chamber, but...

https://redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/133-280-changes

If you go thru the trouble of a false shoulder etc. please dont cam over on the die when reloading unless you need to for correct headspace. Ignore the die instructions about touching the shellholder then adding 1/4 turn. Partial FL size (back the die off from touch 1/2 turn or more) for the 1st few firings. It may take 2 or 3 or 4 firings, depending on pressure, before the case chambers tight enough for you to get a good adjustment to set & forget the lock ring. This can be done by feel, or get a Hornady headspace comparator (around $35 or so for the set) & learn to use it.