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After seeing several short articles on this as a gun lube decided to give it a try on a new, unfired by me, Rock Island GI 1911 45. I used 5-30 wt. as that's what I had. I cleaned the bore wiped off all lube that the gun was shipped with and lightly relubed all moving parts rubbing it into the barrel and barrel bushing. After 100 rounds of Factory American Eagle and Gold Dot 230 gr bullets shot at an outdoor range under ideal conditions; 60 degrees , no dust or dirt, shot as fast as I could get the one magazine it came with reloaded there were no malfunctions.

After field stripping it for cleaning the only part of the gun that appeared dirty was the bore. There looked to be enough lube left to keep shooting but I wiped it down, re lubed it, put another 100 rounds of the same ammo through it with no malfunctions and took it home.

A week later I took it down cleaned the bore, brushed the extractor recess and reassembled it without relubing as it appeared clean with lube still on the moving parts. Back to the range for another 100 rounds with no malfunctions.

Granted all 300 rounds were shot under ideal conditions but I'd bet most of us shoot under ideal conditions. I can't say it's the best gun lube you can get but for it's cost compared to specific gun oils cost I'd say it's a viable, economic way to go and maybe it works under bad conditions too.

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I use Mobile 1 sparringly on some parts.

I get great mileage :-)
JK
:-)

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any motoroil/transmission fluid would work fine. People over think stuff.

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I have been using Mobil On, 0 degrees for many years with out a problem


If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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Most lubricants, including motor oils work fine if applied rationally.


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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe
Most lubricants, including motor oils work fine if applied rationally.
And it's free, sorry about thinking like a liberal.. LOL. But after an oil change, I would tip the bottle upside down and recover the leftover in the lid and use it to lubricate door hinges, etc. also.

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Originally Posted by 43Shooter
After seeing several short articles on this as a gun lube decided to give it a try on a new, unfired by me, Rock Island GI 1911 45. I used 5-30 wt. as that's what I had. I cleaned the bore wiped off all lube that the gun was shipped with and lightly relubed all moving parts rubbing it into the barrel and barrel bushing. After 100 rounds of Factory American Eagle and Gold Dot 230 gr bullets shot at an outdoor range under ideal conditions; 60 degrees , no dust or dirt, shot as fast as I could get the one magazine it came with reloaded there were no malfunctions.

After field stripping it for cleaning the only part of the gun that appeared dirty was the bore. There looked to be enough lube left to keep shooting but I wiped it down, re lubed it, put another 100 rounds of the same ammo through it with no malfunctions and took it home.

A week later I took it down cleaned the bore, brushed the extractor recess and reassembled it without relubing as it appeared clean with lube still on the moving parts. Back to the range for another 100 rounds with no malfunctions.

Granted all 300 rounds were shot under ideal conditions but I'd bet most of us shoot under ideal conditions. I can't say it's the best gun lube you can get but for it's cost compared to specific gun oils cost I'd say it's a viable, economic way to go and maybe it works under bad conditions too.
You could lube it with Crisco and get the same results. People make way too much noise about gun lubes.
I've lubed pistols with 70spf sunblock and they ran fine.

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That’s what I use! memtb


You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

“I’d like to be a good rifleman…..but, I prefer to be a good hunter”! memtb 2024
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Originally Posted by dla
Originally Posted by 43Shooter
After seeing several short articles on this as a gun lube decided to give it a try on a new, unfired by me, Rock Island GI 1911 45. I used 5-30 wt. as that's what I had. I cleaned the bore wiped off all lube that the gun was shipped with and lightly relubed all moving parts rubbing it into the barrel and barrel bushing. After 100 rounds of Factory American Eagle and Gold Dot 230 gr bullets shot at an outdoor range under ideal conditions; 60 degrees , no dust or dirt, shot as fast as I could get the one magazine it came with reloaded there were no malfunctions.

After field stripping it for cleaning the only part of the gun that appeared dirty was the bore. There looked to be enough lube left to keep shooting but I wiped it down, re lubed it, put another 100 rounds of the same ammo through it with no malfunctions and took it home.

A week later I took it down cleaned the bore, brushed the extractor recess and reassembled it without relubing as it appeared clean with lube still on the moving parts. Back to the range for another 100 rounds with no malfunctions.

Granted all 300 rounds were shot under ideal conditions but I'd bet most of us shoot under ideal conditions. I can't say it's the best gun lube you can get but for it's cost compared to specific gun oils cost I'd say it's a viable, economic way to go and maybe it works under bad conditions too.
You could lube it with Crisco and get the same results. People make way too much noise about gun lubes.
I've lubed pistols with 70spf sunblock and they ran fine.

Any tan lines?

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Mobil 1 is my goto firearm oil. If I need an grease application for the slide/frame rails on my glocks or Sigs I use CRC Sta-Bil engine assembly grease. This is an moly graphite bases grease and it the same stuff the gun lube companies sell in the small Carmex glass containers only the gun guys highly inflate the price. IMO the whole firearm lube business is a scam.

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Hunting trip to middle of nowhere, I took a chunk out of my thumb doing a fast reload of a Ruger No.1. Turned out neither of us had brought a cleaning kit (that won't happen again), the only oil we had was cooking oil. I cleaned the blood off and lubed everything with that veggie oil. Worked fine and there wasn't even a blemish on the blue.


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Some of it's tragic,
But I had a good life all the way."
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Who believes most gun lubes are,

"Carefully Formulated to Meet the Needs of Your Fine Firearms!!!"


You need lube and corrosion protection.

Most oils provide that.

Most of the chemicals we use are just bulk product sold in little containers at
hugely inflated prices.


Does anyone believe Brownell's formulated Acraglass?
Hell no. They found an epoxy that they liked, then payed someone to put it in
nice little tubs.


Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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Originally Posted by Son_of_the_Gael
Hunting trip to middle of nowhere, I took a chunk out of my thumb doing a fast reload of a Ruger No.1. Turned out neither of us had brought a cleaning kit (that won't happen again), the only oil we had was cooking oil. I cleaned the blood off and lubed everything with that veggie oil. Worked fine and there wasn't even a blemish on the blue.



Your vehicle dipstick makes a nice oil applicator.

#farmerloggerlogic😁


Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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Mobil 1 syn ATF fluid is my go to. One quart will last till my grandchildren die. Cost me 10 bucks


My biggest fear is when I die my wife will sell my guns for what I told her they cost.
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Last year… the Blue 20 Wt 3 in 1 oil got too cold in my CZ 22 lr it caused light strikes, EVERY Time. I did not feel it had too much lubricant on the firing pin assy. but it was gummy. Went back to the truck and flushed it out, ran fine. I’ve used Mobil 1 in cold weather and it works great. Also if you have a gun that fowls a lot try Mobil 1 compared to a strait mineral oil and you’ll see the M1 suspends crud from the cracks. Runs ARs clean

Last edited by smallfry; 04/17/23.
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One night while I was chamois hunting in New Zealand we met a commercial meat hunter who was shooting rabbits and pigs. He had got his jeep stuck in the river and came into the lights of the government cabin we were staying in to dry off and get help. He wanted to re oil his work gun, a suppressed Ruger 10/22. I found some random can of generic spray lube in my guides Toyota but he said that makes the guns action too loud and he wanted something thicker. I jokingly said we had some olive oil in the kitchen. He said that was perfect and he had used it before. He said it’s keeps the action from making a clacking sound. I had never heard that one before. I would have thought the smoke point was too low not to burn? Never saw him again so I didn’t get the chance to ask.

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Full synthetic engine oil kept in some small applicator bottles is my primary gun oil it works fine even on guns that like to be run wet, 1911’s, AR’s ect.

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Originally Posted by blairvt
any motoroil/transmission fluid would work fine. People over think stuff.

Yes. There are so many good lube options these days that it would be simpler to compile a list of what shouldn't be used.


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Art's Gun Shop has been saying for years a few drops of synthetic motor oil on the friction rings and recoil spring of A5's make them function smoother. Been a follower for years.


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I’ve been using Mobil One 5W30 as a lubricant for many years. Works fine.

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