If you “start at the start” “Dab bed the lug” “Sound scope and mounts” “Kiss find pressure and rock on “ The go shoot and take the shotgun shell for adjustments as needed to forend pressure. I’ve never seen a Montana that didn’t dazzle! Think I have ten or so and they all are outstanding. And none are freefloated like they came.
'Horn is spot on in my experience, especially with montanas.
I've done very similar things with my skinny barreled semi customs that have good stocks added. I don't think it holds true to rifles with floppy plastic stocks, at least not with as much consistency.
Take a shell and cut open the end and pour the shot out. Then take the hull and cut it length wise in pieces about the width of your barrel or so. Also cut the pedals off the wadding. Now you have several pieces of plastic shim material that you can stack/mix/match as needed to slide between the barrel and tip of the stock forend. You don’t have to take the rifle apart to add shims this way just lift up on barrel enough to add. Always start with the smallest amount of shim to add a little forend pressure and then shoot the rifle. Once the rifle is happy make note of the exact shims used. Then you can use them to hold the correct tension on the barrel while you bed a permanent pressure pad at the forend tip and then remove shims. Problems solved in one shooting session this way.
Biggest benefit is that most of the time you can make a rifle shoot what you choose really well instead of all that bullshit of letting the rifle dictate what it likes!
Thank you, Raghorn. Good to know if I ever acquire one that doesn't shoot. So far, I'm 3/3 in the Kimber lottery
My heart's in the mountains, my heart is not here. My heart's in the mountains, chasing the deer.
With the butt of the gun solidly on the floor (muzzle up) and holding it by the sides of the forearm with your index finger very lightly on the barrel at the tip of the forearm, crack the front action screw loose and see if you can feel any barrel movement.
Let me know what you find. -Al
Just coming back to this.... there is zero movement when releasing the front action screw. What brought this back to memory was another thread on bedding BR rifles.... this rifle was bedded with no clearance on the sides of the lug.... I know the front has clearance but now I have to check that there is clearance UNDER as well..... it's late but first thing on my list to do in the morning. The bedding job was done so neatly that I didn't even question it..... damn it ....lol.
Side note was I was almost ready to tear it down and send it to pacnor for a 7 twist barrel 🤦🏻♂️
With the butt of the gun solidly on the floor (muzzle up) and holding it by the sides of the forearm with your index finger very lightly on the barrel at the tip of the forearm, crack the front action screw loose and see if you can feel any barrel movement.
Let me know what you find. -Al
Just coming back to this.... there is zero movement when releasing the front action screw. What brought this back to memory was another thread on bedding BR rifles.... this rifle was bedded with no clearance on the sides of the lug.... I know the front has clearance but now I have to check that there is clearance UNDER as well..... it's late but first thing on my list to do in the morning. The bedding job was done so neatly that I didn't even question it..... damn it ....lol.
Side note was I was almost ready to tear it down and send it to pacnor for a 7 twist barrel 🤦🏻♂️
Raghorn had some good advice. As did higinnez. Those methods are very common place and the nice thing is they are easy to try, without modifying anything. I use business cards under the barrel near the tip of the fore arm to apply forend pressure. Some skinny barrels like a small amount of pressure there. Also some don't and they like 100% freefloat, as I stated earlier when I said to relieve the bedding under the chamber. There are may checks that are very easy to do and they tell you right away if your rifle likes or doesn't like it.
Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.
Incorrect assembly/bedding,is a constant bane,as is swapping a Reupold for another Reupold. Hint.
I'd be gunning 75gr Hornie HPBT's with out grating,slide the mag shim to arrange Smooches and be squirting Lever' at nearly 3000fps in Lapooey cases. That would be my Mono Metal Load,due their accuracy,precison,flight characteristics and terminal effects,in no particular fhuqking order and I'd have zero interest in a second projectile. Hint............
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
Mine shoots about 1/2" with Berger 70 gr VLDs and Barnes 55 gr TTSX bullets. Did not like 53 gr Hornady Vmax and won't stabilize 75 gr AMAX with the factory 1 in 9 twist barrel. Note that I never did anything to it except shoot and clean it after mounting the Talley LW one piece base/rings and Leupold VX3 2.5-8x36 w/B&C reticule. Really like the rifle, would be the last centerfire to go in my collection.
I've seen SWFA glass in correctly assembled mounting systems,fix alotta "bad" Montuckies(Ruger's,Remington's,Sako's,yada,yada,yada too). Hint.
Coupla OEM Montucky 223 spouts here and a coupla hasty MPAJ 3-shot groups at 100yds. Freshly mounted SWFA's. The Blue Magoo had just puked another Reupold 3.5-10x(1"). Hint.
Just sayin'..............
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
84M Varmint .204 donor. Told smith to keep the bbl.
SS 1:7 3-groove Lilja factory dupe ceracoated matte black to match the action. All dropped into a spare Montana stock I bought somewhere along the way. I don’t have it in hand yet, but I’m more than certain it’ll shoot.
Last edited by horse1; 03/31/23.
I can walk on water.......................but I do stagger a bit on alcohol.
Are you SURE the front action screw isn’t bottoming out? Try putting sharpie on the end and then run it back it tight, then remove and check the sharpie for marring. I went round and round with my Montana before catching this. Yes I feel stoopid. Mine would shoot great groups (Pac-Nor 7 WSM rebarrel) then throw the occasional heartbreaking flyer. The kind of flyer that just stomps your confidence in the rifle, haha. Anyway, check that [bleep] screw.
It will be, also verified they have and are using the same reamer they used to do my other 223 ai so hopefully I can use the same brass. I sent a fired case just to he sure.
Also, not the action screw.... I measured the depth and verified that and the scope base screws were good..... I honestly just always had it in the back of my head that this was the route I was gonna end up going and just didn't really go far enough with load development. After reading everyone's success with the heavier bullets I really wanted a 7 twist.
You might consult the "kimber fiddle-phuggin" thread. In it is a detailed list of all the fiddle phuggin needed to get kimber montana rifles to shoot worth a schitt.
You might consult the "kimber fiddle-phuggin" thread. In it is a detailed list of all the fiddle phuggin needed to get kimber montana rifles to shoot worth a schitt.
I may. It’s worth the effort if needed to those who appreciate what these rifles offer. Not everyone does. Different strokes, different folks.
Originally Posted by raghorn
Originally Posted by turkish
You put the shims at the very end of the forend and then bed just behind that?
I tend to put them in a little and bed in front to help keep trash from getting between the barrel and stock but you can do it either way
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