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cra1948 Offline OP
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Have recently acquired a No1S in 7X57 (a "new to me" cartridge.) I got a couple of boxes of 140 NBTs and started looking for some powder locally. I wanted 4350 or Big Game, both of which I'd seen locally recently, but which have since disappeared. Okay plan B: I picked up a pound of StaBALL 6.5 which looks good on paper and which I'd kind of been wanting to try in the 6.5X55 anyway, and started experimenting with a new-to-me powder in a new-to-me chambering. Started out with brand new Norma cases, CCI 250 primers. Hodgdon shows a max load of 47.5 grains for 2714 fps @ 45,700 CUP. As a reference, they show a max of 48.5 in the 7-08 for 2976 @ 59,300 CUP. I figured that 2900 was a good target speed and that I might need a little more than 48.5 in the slightly larger capacity 7X57 case, but I'd be happy with 2800 from the 22" barrel with good accuracy. I started out with three loads, five cartridges each, of 47.5 gr, 48 gr, and 48.5 gr to try. At the range, I got 5 shot averages of 2634, 2682, and 2708 with big extreme spreads and SD's. (Yes, I know all about statistically insignificant sample size, etc, etc, just saying...)

Accuracy was about as bad as one would expect with those inconsistent speeds, but very encouraging in that it indicated I can probably expect really good accuracy if I develop good, consistent loads.

Has anyone had much experience with StaBALL 6.5 in 7X57 or similar cases? On paper it looks like it should be a stellar performer in the moderate capacity cases like 7X57, 7-08, 6.5X55 and 6.5 C. I haven't seen much mention of it though and have seemed to recall a few vague rumors about it getting kind of squirrely in the general vicinity of maximum loads.

Glad to hear your thoughts.


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Great intel!

I’ve not used it with the 7x57 but have with the 06 and 212’s and 6CM and 105’s. I’d bet a dollar when you get it cranked up stuff will start to settle down.

I just got a new to me 7x57 as well so I’ll be watching how your work up goes.


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I've used it in 6.5x55, 270 win, 7mm08 and 30-06. Does well if your rifle likes it. No issues or problems. Just a matter of finding the right load. Dan.


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6.5 Staball produces outstanding velocities for me in 7-08 with 162 grain bullets. Check out the 7-08 load data for the 162 AMAX & Staball on the Hodgdon website. My experience is that it is NOT fluke data.

Not exactly how that would translate to 7x57, but I’d have to think similar performance is attainable IF loaded to similar pressure.


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I've been playing with the 7x57 for a ew years now. Had to quit in January 2020 because of a bad car wreck and the doc said no shooting. One thing led to another and I just have not been able to get back at it. DAMMIT!

With that said, I do have two loads that have worked for me One is the 140 gr. Nosler Ballistic tip over 47.0 gr. W760 at 2800 FPS. I did reach 2880 but bolt lift started to get a bit sticky. Typical Arizona summer, hotter'n hell. It was probably about 110 that day. I dropped it back to 2800 FPS for that reason. Accuracy from a Winchester M70 FWT was snapping at the heels of a half inch.

The other load which I much prefer in the 150 gr. Nosler Partition over RL17. Velocity is 2847 FPS using 48.5 gr. RL17. Accuracy in the M70 runs from .375" to .50" so far.

Both loads are maximum in my rifles but have proven safe in the M70 and a Ruger #1A but have proven to be too hot for use in a custom Mauser. Start at least two grains less than mentioned.

Frankly, I'm going along with those on using 7-08 data for he 7x57 if you have a modern rifle. The Ruger #1 qualifies.

NOTE to cra1948: If your Ruger #1 has a 22" barrel, it's a #1A. The "S" have 24" and 26" barrels depending on the chambered cartridge.

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My plan is to keep increasing .5 grain at a time until things level out. When I get up to 2900, if they're leveled out, great. If necessary for accuracy at that point, I'll start playing with seating depth (I'm currently .025 off the lands.)

Note to PJGunner: Thanks for straightening that out for me. I had originally thought it was a 1A, but something made me change my mind. Not that it matters, but I hate to appear too dumb.


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Thousands of rifles available in .308 Win. Almost every one will do anything the old 7 will do with no fuss. Press the easy button.

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Originally Posted by 219 Wasp
Thousands of rifles available in .308 Win. Almost every one will do anything the old 7 will do with no fuss. Press the easy button.

I’ve no interest in easy and I’ve got a.308 along with a number of rifles in a wide variety of cartridges that will do anything I will conceivably call upon a rifle to do. I like to play with guns, but thanks for the advice.


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welcome to the club. I wasn't meaning to sound ignorant. I have 3 or 4 rifles in the safe that are constantly messed with to achieve perfection. A husqvarna crown grade from the 50'S and a .257 Wby mark V among others. Still searching. The .257 will beat the 1.5 moa warranty but like a lot better than that. Last 5 shot group was 1.35. Maybe tomorrow?

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Originally Posted by PJGunner
I've been playing with the 7x57 for a ew years now. Had to quit in January 2020 because of a bad car wreck and the doc said no shooting. One thing led to another and I just have not been able to get back at it. DAMMIT!

With that said, I do have two loads that have worked for me One is the 140 gr. Nosler Ballistic tip over 47.0 gr. W760 at 2800 FPS. I did reach 2880 but bolt lift started to get a bit sticky. Typical Arizona summer, hotter'n hell. It was probably about 110 that day. I dropped it back to 2800 FPS for that reason. Accuracy from a Winchester M70 FWT was snapping at the heels of a half inch.

The other load which I much prefer in the 150 gr. Nosler Partition over RL17. Velocity is 2847 FPS using 48.5 gr. RL17. Accuracy in the M70 runs from .375" to .50" so far.

Both loads are maximum in my rifles but have proven safe in the M70 and a Ruger #1A but have proven to be too hot for use in a custom Mauser. Start at least two grains less than mentioned.

Frankly, I'm going along with those on using 7-08 data for he 7x57 if you have a modern rifle. The Ruger #1 qualifies.

NOTE to cra1948: If your Ruger #1 has a 22" barrel, it's a #1A. The "S" have 24" and 26" barrels depending on the chambered cartridge.

PJ
Big Game is a 7-08 fav, never tried it in my 7x57, but it should work about as well.

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The numbers on Hogdon’s website are pretty sweet with 6.5 Staball with the 7-08 and the .280AI.
It stands to reason it should give good speed with a 7x57 AT THE SAME PRESSURE.
Who knows, it might even group worth a darn. I’m only looking for 2,500fps with 175’s but it should be less temp sensitive than the RL-22 I’m running now. Guessing mag primers might help, Staball being ball powder.
I bought a can a while back and will eventually try it in my 1-A.

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Originally Posted by Potsy
The numbers on Hogdon’s website are pretty sweet with 6.5 Staball with the 7-08 and the .280AI.
It stands to reason it should give good speed with a 7x57 AT THE SAME PRESSURE.
Who knows, it might even group worth a darn. I’m only looking for 2,500fps with 175’s but it should be less temp sensitive than the RL-22 I’m running now. Guessing mag primers might help, Staball being ball powder.
I bought a can a while back and will eventually try it in my 1-A.
I quit buying RL-22, sub RL-23 when available. StaBALL will be more temp stable than ‘22. It’s a good one. I have a couple of cans, just haven’t had time to do much loading with it.

I have more Mag LR primers than std., use them with ball powders.

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I can’t grip TOO much about ‘22. I just quit trying to push it and doing load development in the dead of winter or middle of summer.
Normally, my .25-06, 7x57, and Dad’s .270 WSM only get shot from about 20deg. to 70deg. Which is fine for deer hunting.
I bought a 5 pounder a decade ago and might use it all before I die (I gotta shoot more stuff, but those rifles usually only get fired when confirming zero or putting meat on the ground).

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Taking advice from The Big Book of Gun Gack (thanks JB) I used Hodgdon data for the 7-08, which has nearly identical case capacity as the 7x57.
With careful attention to the chronograph, I worked up to maximum velocity listed for the 7-08.
Ended up with 145 LRX at 2900 fps and 150 NBT at 2850 with excellent accuracy.
Winchester 70 22" of 2014 vintage - Hornady cases and 210 primers.

Since 7x57 throat dimensions, and therefore pressures, vary all over the place, please do not try this without benefit of a chronograph.

Cheers,
Walt


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Digressing from the powder questions. And raising the spectre of multiple variables impacting accuracy.

The back of the rib should clear the front of the receiver by, IIRC, at least .003". Otherwise the end of the rib might contact the receiver as the barrel warms up with adverse impact on group size.

My 7 x 57 1A would shoot vertical strings with little lateral dispersion despite waiting 5 minutes or more between shots. The first shot the next day would be spot on with the first shot of the previous day! There was no clearance between the back of the rib and the receiver. I pulled the rib and stoned the back end to provide some clearance. If you elect to do this, be careful removing the flat head allen screws attaching the rib to the barrel. Penetrating oil and some heat would be your friends. I broke one of those screws....Ruger was good about sending a replacement but getting the broken stub out without buggering up the barrel was tricky. Providing rib clearance fixed the vertical stringing.

Also, older 7 x 57 Ruger 1A rifles had longer throats to handle 175 gr bullets. My 1A shoots 140 gr Nosler BTs better when the bullets are seated out further.

Finally, when was your No. 1 made? The very early ones had excellent Douglas barrels but Ruger used Wilson barrels for a while and accuracy varied with those. Ruger hammer forged barrels starting in ?1992 are supposed to be better than the Wilson barrels.

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Originally Posted by Aagaardsporter
Digressing from the powder questions. And raising the spectre of multiple variables impacting accuracy.

The back of the rib should clear the front of the receiver by, IIRC, at least .003". Otherwise the end of the rib might contact the receiver as the barrel warms up with adverse impact on group size.
When I first checked this, I was able to easily slide a .004 feeler gage between the receiver and the rib, for which I was grateful. Another issue I have found in No.1's is contact between the rear of the fore end and the front of the receiver. ( My 1B in .308 was bearing kind of tight in that spot. I relieved it with some careful sanding. The flat surface with, of course, a flat sanding block, the lower, radiused surface was done uniformly with some fine sandpaper wrapped around a 12 gauge shotgun cartridge. The amount of relief was visually imperceptible once reassembled, but resulted in much more uniform groups, probably half the size of before I did it.

My 7 x 57 1A would shoot vertical strings with little lateral dispersion despite waiting 5 minutes or more between shots. The first shot the next day would be spot on with the first shot of the previous day! There was no clearance between the back of the rib and the receiver. I pulled the rib and stoned the back end to provide some clearance. If you elect to do this, be careful removing the flat head allen screws attaching the rib to the barrel. Penetrating oil and some heat would be your friends. I broke one of those screws....Ruger was good about sending a replacement but getting the broken stub out without buggering up the barrel was tricky. Providing rib clearance fixed the vertical stringing.

I hear you with regard to caution when removing small screws that may have been in there a long time. Having begun my tool and die apprenticeship in 1974, I have had much experience in the intervening years in removing broken screws (and taps, and drills and.....) and am pretty good at it (usually.) That said, I would much prefer to avoid breaking them in the first place. I always start with Kroil and, if a half hour soak doesn't do it, I'm not opposed to letting it go overnight.


Also, older 7 x 57 Ruger 1A rifles had longer throats to handle 175 gr bullets. My 1A shoots 140 gr Nosler BTs better when the bullets are seated out further. I don't think my throat is overly long. I'm seating 140 NBT's .025 (or so) off the lands at 3.175. This puts the base of the bullet just about at the bottom of the neck. If this gives me acceptable accuracy when I hit about 2900 fps, all is well and good. If not, I'll start playing with seating depth a bit.

Finally, when was your No. 1 made? The very early ones had excellent Douglas barrels but Ruger used Wilson barrels for a while and accuracy varied with those. Ruger hammer forged barrels starting in ?1992 are supposed to be better than the Wilson barrels.
This is, according to Ruger, a 2000 gun. For what it's worth, I try not to pay any attention to Red Pad Rugers just because I don't want to have to deal with this issue. I only get the guns to use, not to collect, and I would prefer to only have to deal with a known and easily corrected set of potential issues (as we've discussed above.)

Thanks for taking the time to provide a detailed response.


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