Having a custom built kitchen put in, the shop did a great job building the Hickory kitchen cabinets BUT instead of drilling individual holes that could be filled with silicon the installer used a 6" hole saw putting the drain and both supply lines in one hole. I do not want a messy foam spray job so how can I cleanly fill the gap?
I have been looking for a flat rubber grommet type cover but not one local hardware store has anything like it.
Right now we have temporary plumbing run while we wait on the new stone countertops so I have 2 weeks to figure this out..
That is a sloppy way of doing it. I can't think of any patch that would look good. This is the inside of the cabinet, but you paid some good coin and want the whole job to look good.
Therefore, why not make them laminate a new bottom in the cabinet and cut 3 separate holes as tight and as neat as possible ? There is 3/16" plywood or plastic laminate could be used.
Escutcheon for the drain pipe, redo the supplies and separate escutcheons for those
I am positive I will run the supply line thru new small holes and would like to have the mill-work shop redo the sink cabinet base but after waiting 6 months for the cabinets I can't stand the thought of delaying the project even more..............
That is a sloppy way of doing it. I can't think of any patch that would look good. This is the inside of the cabinet, but you paid some good coin and want the whole job to look good.
Therefore, why not make them laminate a new bottom in the cabinet and cut 3 separate holes as tight and as neat as possible ? There is 3/16" plywood or plastic laminate could be used.
This........ cabinet shop can put a thin bottom on top of that and clean it up
Would help to know why the water inlets weren't located in the wall, but a tile or stone backsplash has already been put in, take the cabinet out and have it done right. Then back-charge toe original installer. Using a rubber hose inlet below the cabinet deck I wouldn't even believe is up to code, should the hose start to leak with the shut off valve above the deck, you have to go outside and shut off the whole house valve to shut off the water. Any future maintenance will be a real pain in the ass, fix it right now.
Would help to know why the water inlets weren't located in the wall, but a tile or stone backsplash has already been put in, take the cabinet out and have it done right. Then back-charge toe original installer. Using a rubber hose inlet below the cabinet deck I wouldn't even believe is up to code, should the hose start to leak with the shut off valve above the deck, you have to go outside and shut off the whole house valve to shut off the water. Any future maintenance will be a real pain in the ass, fix it right now.
Phil
Yep, usually the supply lines and the waste line are in the wall. For whatever reason, the plumber contributed to the problem.
Would help to know why the water inlets weren't located in the wall, but a tile or stone backsplash has already been put in, take the cabinet out and have it done right. Then back-charge toe original installer. Using a rubber hose inlet below the cabinet deck I wouldn't even believe is up to code, should the hose start to leak with the shut off valve above the deck, you have to go outside and shut off the whole house valve to shut off the water. Any future maintenance will be a real pain in the ass, fix it right now.
Phil
This is the first helpful, non dumbass riddled post I have ever seen you make. Congratulations.
Would help to know why the water inlets weren't located in the wall, but a tile or stone backsplash has already been put in, take the cabinet out and have it done right. Then back-charge toe original installer. Using a rubber hose inlet below the cabinet deck I wouldn't even believe is up to code, should the hose start to leak with the shut off valve above the deck, you have to go outside and shut off the whole house valve to shut off the water. Any future maintenance will be a real pain in the ass, fix it right now.
Phil
Yep, usually the supply lines and the waste line are in the wall. For whatever reason, the plumber contributed to the problem.
When built (I am not the original owner) the lines all came up from below not sure why they didn't run them through the wall....
Would help to know why the water inlets weren't located in the wall, but a tile or stone backsplash has already been put in, take the cabinet out and have it done right. Then back-charge toe original installer. Using a rubber hose inlet below the cabinet deck I wouldn't even believe is up to code, should the hose start to leak with the shut off valve above the deck, you have to go outside and shut off the whole house valve to shut off the water. Any future maintenance will be a real pain in the ass, fix it right now.
Phil
Yep, usually the supply lines and the waste line are in the wall. For whatever reason, the plumber contributed to the problem.
When built (I am not the original owner) the lines all came up from below not sure why they didn't run them through the wall....
Possible add on after original structure?
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
Tape around the hole, spray expanding foam, cut it flush after it sets up, spread some caulking on it to smooth it over, remove the tape and paint.
This....sort of. Spray foam and once cured cut off with a flush cut hand saw. Paint or use cabinet paper on bottom.
Could use a thin coat of drywall mud on top of foam and sand smooth before paint or paper.
Yeah. You’ll end up putting shelf paper or rubber mat down, anyway, so wouldn’t get super fancy with it. As long as you’re not losing stuff down in that gap, nobody will know what it looks like under the shelf paper.
