Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Concrete guys.....

Good Concrete guys are worth whatever they charge.

Recipe on how to lose a slab.

4-5" slump is a helluva lot easier to work. Especially with inexperienced help.

Just hire a pro to pour your driveway right, be happy to write them a check, in this heat.

Make sure you don't call me to help drag a 24' I beam......

Dragging a 24'+ Ibeam across a driveway with an ATV to screed it? Have you ever screeded a slab before? You don't pull the screed forward , you slide if back and forth and slowly work it forward to flatten the concrete and bring up the juice.... this sounds like a fiasco already...

I dunno “fiasco” but having done two perimeter foundations and two slabs, myself, I know once the mud starts to flow it’s game time and the clock is ticking. I would not personally be trying new things out at that point.

Correct I hit the wrong number.

Osky

Just have the concrete company add a water reducing admixture... we call it flowable when ordering... order it at an 8 slump... add 1 or 2 hour delay retarder, if you need the time to start working it.

Hand rod the SOB with a straight 2x4.

No use making a 20 minute rod job into a disaster.

Kent

Hire someone,, money well spent.

This ^^^
Most mix designs that I use are based on a 4" slump.
We're typically allowed to go 1" over to 5" without creating a sheetstorm of paperwork.

Also look at your receipt when the truck gets there.
There should be a line item that's labeled "water to add".
This is the amount of water you can add to that batch in the truck without degrading the mix design strength.

The standard mix design for a slab that I see is for 3500 PSI in 28 days.
Some engineers like 4000 PSI.
Truth be known, most 3500 mixes will hit 4000

That's it. You're on the poopy list. This was going to be a cluster and now you've injected your knowledge and he will do the sensible thing and pay someone, because they are experts for a reason. When we could have waited for the disaster thread that was sure to come along at some point.

I was waiting to hear about how the I beam hit a high spot in the cement and the 4 wheelers tipped over forward into wet cement.

Yep.
It would be like watching those boat ramp, boat launching videos.
I'm sure that the OP won't want to do that.

Most diy'ers spend WAY too much time getting the mud down.
Gets WORSE from there.
If you can't finish properly with a good mix, you sure as heck are in for a work out.
Grade evenly,compact sub soil, order some commercial fiber in the mix.

Go for it, hell the sun's gonna come up tomorrow!

230 pounds may not seem like much untill you get some mud in front of it. Even a piece of steel can sag some in the middle.

It sure seems like a lot to me

As suggested, I would do it in 3 8 foot strips and pull the scree boards and chairs as you go.

Another thing, that heavy screed could cause your forms tp change position.

Let us know

Screeding a truck's worth of concrete is 10 minutes work of the 20 to 30 minutes of getting it down. Why make it a disaster. Put a grade pin every 12 ft down the center, make a wet screed from pin to pin, rod down half at a time with a 12 ft 2x4, no need to get an aluminum screed for 1 job.

Again, with today's additives you can make the slump like water and add delay to have more time to work it before it starts setting.

Kent

Truck is pulling in

Kent

It went nearly perfect.





Took about 20 minutes to get off the truck and laid down like glass. One pic is post screed, the other after ripping a float.

Looks less than 24' (based on the 5 gallon buckets)...

Either way... easy peasy with super good access.

Good looking placement. Congrats.

That was 19x16. I had no intention of cutting a piece of steel to fit. It just hung wild. I modified my original plan a little bit.

This should make some heads explode

Back in the day we would have drove a row of stakes made from #2 1x4's down the middle an inch and a quarter below grade tobscreed off of.

Drove two 8 penny nails just below grade where a inch and a quarter piece of black pipe was a tight fit on top of the stakes so it didn't roll around while you were screeding.

When we screeded down to the end of our pipe, we pulled the pipe down and slung concrete in the low spot with a shovel. The bull float took care of it.

That was a pretty sweet setup that worked better than what I was originally thinking.