Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Question/problem with Contender

Well,
I thought I was going to shoot my Contender and the 16" 223 barrel. I put it on a G1 receiver and everything seemed to be OK. I load a round and close the action, pull the hammer back and when I fire I get "click". Moved the rimfire/center fire selector and still a "click". I doesn't appear the hammer is going forward enough to contact the striker. I played with it for a few minutes and have failed to get the hammer to go forward enough to contact the striker. I get not even the slightest contact with the primer.
I'm just re-learning Contenders after about 40 years when I had handguns. I don't remember them being as difficult as these have been lately. Anyone have an idea or know what is wrong with mine?
Any help appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Rick

This article may help. It's likely that the locking lugs aren't engaging into the receiver far enough. This (in my experience) happens sometimes with the original model Contenders.

With the Contenders
it may be simply that the lockup is too tight, preventing the hammer block from dropping freely as is often the case. The locking bolts must adequately engage the frame to rotate the interlock plate and allow the hammer block to drop freely. If the hammer block drags on the interlock, the hammer block does not clear the falling hammer. The hammer dings the top of the block and loses enough inertia to fail to fire primers.

The remedy is to lower the locking bolt surface that engages under the locking table in the frame. Stone down this top surface just enough that it can travel adequately into the frame, but do not alter the slight rear to front "draft angle" of the engagement surface. Inking the top surface then opening and closing the barrel should show the ink marred well forward of the "U" notch in the locking bolts.

https://blog.bellmtcs.com/faq/b/misfires

Try slamming it shut

On a Contender the locking lugs on the barrel should be adjusted from the bottom on a flat surface, like a glass plate, with a fine wet and dry using oil. Remove the lug (s) from the barrel first, then cut the bottom of the lug(s) flat and square, fitting the lugs often, until the barrel closes and locks up properly.

As you suspected the internal hammer block is not falling. If the barrel locking lugs are fully back in the recess and engaged, the internal safety or hammer block will drop with an audible click, when the hammer is pulled back, if that swinging door like keeper, is rotated completely by the locking lug going all the way into position, the block will drop.

The hammer spring should be strong enough to hold the hammer block in place until the hammer is pulled back, when the barrel is closed. The block or internal safety is there so that the firing pin is not resting on the primer with the hammer down.

Slamming a TC closed to make a mis-fit locking lug(s) lock up is not a good idea. If the lug(s) stick at all, trying to unlock the barrel could bend the lug actuator rod, that rod looks like a dumb bell, then the barrel may be really locked closed.

Then you must take the barrel rotating pin out and take the gun apart.

I had an SSK 30-30AI barrel and you had to shut it very firmly to get it to fire. Snap it shut pretty briskly and see if that works.

If you slam it shut at waist level watch out for the frank and beans

The G2 works OK with other barrels?

Does it have a steel hammer spur extension on it?
Adds too much weight. Causes misfires.....
Use a Bellm extension.

What’s your headspace ?

" I doesn't appear the hammer is going forward enough to contact the striker. "

Have you used this barrel successfully before?

I am not sure how you are checking the movement but will offer the following just in case.....

First.
It may sound fundamental but is it possible that your firing pin is broken?
Take the barrel off, reach in and push the interlock in with your finger sufficiently that you can cock the hammer. Lower the hammer keeping your finger on the trigger and continuing to push forward and see if the firing pin protrudes sufficiently to ignite the primer.

Broken pin, replace and hope problem is solved.

If these steps do not help, as "Slugflinger" suggests a sticky hammer block should also be looked at to see if it is functioning. Doing the test as above with the barrel removed you can check to see that the hammer block is lowering. Doing it without the barrel on will also help to isolate if it has anything to do with the locking lugs.

Second option.

It is strange that the locking bolts will allow you cock the hammer.
Since it is bolts that lock the action shut it is only when there is enough engagement that it will push off the interlock which allows cocking of the hammer.
So
If you have a barrel that works well, Swap the locking bolts and see what happens.
This is easier than messing with honing etc.