Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Picatinny Forearm Rail mount ? Bell and Carlson stock

Think I want to mount a Picatinny Forearm Rail on a Bell and Carlson stock. In this case I am working with a CZ 527 VG stock. Looking for ideas that I may not have considered. Expect the mount would benefit from milling a flat to provide a more stable mount.(sharing thoughts here encouraged) Would appreciate thoughts on rail choice of mounting & technique. What's your thoughts on do's & don'ts for this feature ?

Rifle will be used for bench shooting, recreationally & hunting.

one example of a rail consideration linked below. Feel free to make alternate suggestions.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019571883?pid=601384

Sent you PM

Brown truck showed up with a rail with the sling swivel incorperated on one end of the aluminum rail. Base of this rail has a considerable radius that may do rather well to accommodate a Sporter stock. The VG Bell and Carlson stock is more of a flat bottom target, stock which does not benefit much if any with the radius form on the base of the rail.

Bedding will be the way to go. Striped the paint from the stock in the areas where the rail will make contact, roughed up the surface w an exacto knife to give the epoxy a better surface to bond with . Waxed the stock & the rail along with the 10 32 screws in areas I do not wish for the epoxy to adhere. Mixed up a bit of epoxy & started the bedding process this evening. Looks like a mess at the moment. Though I am optimistic all will look acceptable by the time I have finished this up. Just may be nearly finished by the time the weekend wraps up. Perhaps I am a bit optimistic though that will be the plan.

I bought one of these (Swivel Stud Picatinny Rail Adapter) to mount a flashlight to my Ruger American for an upcoming pig hunt.

It seems to mount solidly, so I think it'll work just fine for its intended purpose.

Looks like Caldwell makes a version with a sling swivel stud.

either of those versions look to have merit for a sporter contour stock. flat'ish bottom of the Bell & Carlson stock does not pare up well with that large radius iMHO. Smaller radius of the Seekens version I went with is still less than Ideal, though better for my purposes.

Seekins UPC #: 811452029248

So epoxy bedding turned out to be a bit more hassle than expected due to the large gap to be filled. Ended up with a need to add additional epoxy as the epoxy flowed out of the middle of the area to be filled.

When I tackle the next one I am considering an Epoxy putty for the task due to the large gap to be filled. Thoughts?

Why not just mill it flat and then bed it to the fore arm?

I assume you are talking about Milling the radius away on the rail. Two concerns come to mind when considering milling the flat being entertained. First clearance for the sling swivel stud is something to be aware of. Second I am a bit reserved over milling the hard anodized aluminum.

Still considering this one. If clearance for the sling swivel becomes a issue then a small mill to create the clearance in the stock would be an option I suppose.

Also need to consider the existing stock, is far from flat. If i am willing to refinish the stock that could be milled flat as well.

Think I am becoming more clear why I opted to do the bedding, in this scenario.

Epoxy has set a bit over 24 hours, on the first stock. I be giving her a test run this AM.

So...you built up the stock to fit the rail? Or built up the rail with epoxy to fit the stock? -Al

One in the same from my perspective. Suppose you may argue the foot print of the build up is limited to the shape of the rail, so I must have built up the rail. Though, the release agent was put on the rail. Think The just of the build up has been covered. Call it what you like.

If some day I do not like this, the material will need to be mechanical removed from the stock. No big deal in my book. Though with this perspective the stock was built up.

I typically use epoxy to fit the rain to stock. Use thick epoxy if needed. I use a forstner bit to inlet the barrel channel for T nuts.

Mind if I inquire when constitutes a thick epoxy?

This ^^^^^^

There's an HS stock here now getting this done. The 'T' nuts are a great way to go for spreading the load out in the fore end....whether it's for a rail or sling swivels. I normally use the flat style and either open up the existing holes or add some so the epoxy flows around the top of the flat.

Good shootin' -Al

Please post a picture. Inquiring mind want to know.

I can't post pics on here but i can email or text them to you.
I used Marine Tex yesterday as it was available at the marine supply store. Devcon 10110 plastic putty is easy to use also.

I pretty much never use anything that is " 5 minute" epoxy. It's not particularly strong and it's scary to work with.
Nothing wrong with the Brownells stuff but you have to add flock or metal powder. I use it on wooden stocks frequently, it's easy to dye and thicken with either fiberglass flock, metal powder and carbon fiber scraps.

Wondering why you did not start with a rail section that was flat for mounting? You don't need epoxy at all. Just drill 2 holes and mount with appropriate hardware. Done and done.

That's the strangest looking picatinny rail I've ever seen.

Great food for thought,

Couple reasons come to mind I chose the rail for the sling swivel mount & hole spacing. I did not realize this one had the radius until arriving so i did not know any better. Currently still not aware of a option with a flat bottom & the sling swivel incorporated.

Anyone here familiar with Hatch PIC rails? The Seekins this project was done with was not described as having the radius.

Anyone familiar with the one in the link below? Another suitable option would be welcome as well.

https://outdoorsmans.com/collections/hatch-outdoors/products/2-5-picatinny-mount

Thought you were asking about a 'T' nut. Never mind...I'll delete it.