Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Change the oil in your rifle

Most here likely don't need this public service announcement, but it's worth mentioning.


I had a family friend that needed to check zero on his rifle yesterday, so I met him at our range down the road from my house. The rifle is a 1970's Browning BAR and he was having issues with failures to fire. I noticed that the bolt was barely closing, even when you let it fly from the rearmost position. It would fire when you pushed the bolt shut with your thumb. The guy thought it needed more oil (he liked 3-in-1 oil), but I asked him when he'd flushed the action out. Never.....lol




I scrounged around the camp and found the magic elixir. Should have seen the brown goo that was coming out of that action, but bolt slams home twice as fast and the rifle runs now!

Lighter Fluid causes more woes,than it "fixes" and does NOTHING to/for nether regions. Though it will saturate and break down Wood. Hint.



Thank me later. Hint..................

Stick, I wouldn’t use that stuff on anyone’s nether regions. What about CLP?

CLP is a lubricant and a poor one at that. Hint.

Generic Starting fluid digs deep,cuts crud,dries well and leaves a LIGHT lubricant. It has no equal for nether regions,or massive crud removal. Hint.

I buy it by the case,because I get something called "weather" here. ALL my 22LR's are literally fueled by it. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!................

I actually asked him if there was any starter fluid around, but the lighter fluid was the only thing we found on site. We didn't have to douse the thing and we did stay away from the wood.

Not a perfect "fix" but it a little bit dribbled on the bolt got him running, which is better than where he started.

Any oil has the potential to gum up or attract crud over time. The purpose of the lighter fluid or starter fluid is to flush it out so that you can reoil with just a light sheen as in going over it with a lightly oiled rag. Or at least that’s how I do it.

Good intel. Thanks gents.

I drive Starting Fluid butt nekked. No "extra" lube needed or WANTED. Exceptions being Krunchentickers and I drive Aviation Low Temp Hydraulic Fluid there(-50),as a lubricant. Hint............

👍

I use the Mobil 1 0/20 on the ARs mostly.

The AV HYD FL I’ll have to look up. Thanks.

Now I’m wondering what’s in starter fluid in addition to ether and whatever aerosol propellant? In another incarnation I used plenty of it to be able to operate in spite of a lot of stinging sub zeroes.

I'm trying to find pics of my Showcase Showdown 10/22,that went 17,000rds+ before it Puked and quit running. My IMac is tired and I have a NIB replacement glaring at me,that's been waiting it's turn for nearly a year. Maybe today,is THAT day?!? Hint.(grin)

My pard's 10/22 lasted longer than mine,by about two bricks,though he didn't do anything different. Credit where due however. Hint.

Probably going to need the 4yr old GrandBaby over here,to show me how to swap. Hint.



Fhuqking LAUGHING!................

What is the lubricant in starting fluid? Is it the ether or the carrier? I've been a naptha user for lubrication in cold weather, but have starting fluid in the shop and m8ght have to switch.

I’m going to see if I can find the contents in that stuff.

diethyl ether

Great solvent, flammable, and powerful anesthetic. Didn't realize it had lubricity as well. Good to know.

Most starting fluid says “With top-end cylinder lubricant” or “upper cylinder lubricants”, on the can. (Stick’s does not)

NO, I don’t know what that lubricant is…

Do you use full synthetic , pard?

There are only 2 types of aviation hydraulic Fluid. 5606 and skydrol. Skydrol is nasty stuff. You don't want it on your skin.