One thing l didn’t mention is keeping the case in the die for about 8 seconds to fully form. If pulling in and out, pulling out leads to shoulder setting forward a bit throwing off headspace measurements. I’m not a big Cortina fan, sorry.
One thing l didn’t mention is keeping the case in the die for about 8 seconds to fully form. If pulling in and out, pulling out leads to shoulder setting forward a bit throwing off headspace measurements. I’m not a big Cortina fan, sorry.
Is there a particular topic where he's off base in your estimation?
mentioned something about running the over annealed brass back through a full length die a few times to work harden it.
I don't agree with it..
anneal, size and forget about it till the next firing, anneal size... hold case in die to fully form, that's my way and the results are what I like. You don't agree, don't.
mentioned something about running the over annealed brass back through a full length die a few times to work harden it.
I don't agree with it..
anneal, size and forget about it till the next firing, anneal size... hold case in die to fully form, that's my way and the results are what I like. You don't agree, don't.
If you don't like having your views challenged it's not a good idea to state them in public, particularly if you're thin skinned.
Like Mule deer, I made my own Truetool. Out of 100 rounds using RCBS dies, I may get 10% or less with more than .005 run out. I true those up.
Although not a bench rest shooter, when trued to .003 or less run I see no difference in the accuracy I never test run out on empty brass.
If consistently getting more run out, I would turn the expander stud 1/8 turn and check run out. Repeat for a full revolution. Lock it down when you see the best.
Of course, lube inside of neck, center dies, polish expander before hand.
If all else fails, then I start looking at neck uneven thickness.
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
Sleeve seaters have been around for some time, I have one by Bonanza . Forster bought Bonanza long ago. But they are more expensive to make. Companies tend limit their production to just calibers, like 308 or 6mm. Forster make their's specific to the cartridge, like 30-06 or 6.5x55. Hornady has added another wrinkle, seating buttons specific to the their bullets.
This is my DIY on the cheap annealing machine. With the heat source I use and 750 tempilac, the necks/shoulders are only exposed to the heat for 5 or 6 seconds. No guessing, just consistency. An extra 4 seconds would likely ruin my brass.
Jerry Lewis Telethon WINNER,you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Fhuqking LAUGHING! +P+!!!...................
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
99.9 percent positive the issue here has been narrowed down to the seating operation, and started with slightly over annealed cases, and a touch too much neck tension. The combination of which will produce more than acceptable runout, regardless what seater die everyone wants to argue is "the best".
IF the OP hasn't softened the necks TOO much and deadened the brass he can certainly try to work harden them as suggested, repeatedly in a sizing die, but can accomplish the same thing by firing them a couple times.
I can assure you that from here on out, proper annealing won't be an issue for him.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
You will ALWAYS do best,by simply fhuqking yourself,as that approach will yield the most pussy...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Bless your heart for trying and crying,you AMAZINGLY Inept Clueless Fhuqk.
Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
Your punctuation means so much...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Keep Pretending aloud,until you "believe" same. Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
Well I got the new Redding seater die in today. Started at 2 resizing's with same results and went to 4 and got .010 RO. Will see tomorrow maybe how many it takes to get brass back.
HeavyBarrel
" A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government" G. Washington
Lee Collet dies produce less TIR than a Redding neck bushing die even with unturned necks. Forget the washer trick on the collet die. Drill the recess deeper in the aluminum cap which allows the collet to close more for better sizing before it makes contact with the case neck. A slight cam over does away with the "handle pressure" per Lee instructions.
Correction on post..... alot going on with this thread
Well I got the new Redding seater die in today. Started at 2 resizing's with same results and went to 4 and got .010 RO. Will see tomorrow maybe how many it takes to get brass back.
HeavyBarrel
FA talked about sizing down to another caliber. .264 to .257 outside neck turning is needed. Thought about what he posted but didn't want to open another debate on top of what's been going on with this forum.
FA is correct, but didn't want him to get his panties up in wad if I agreed with him. I have converted calibers in the past and was told to just ream over the years. My thing with the Lee Collet dies was brass of a specific caliber not converting. Cheap way out is to get a Forster after firing reamer and go from there. In another post I mentioned about inside and out side neck wall thickness. Using a ball mic shows outside turning, alone, mathman, trues up neck wall thickness but I was told years ago, a reamer would do it too.
Getting a better seater was not a waste of money or time.
Didn't say it was needed in the OP's situation, just a possibility because when necking down, that circumferential brass has to go somewhere, and it goes to making the neck walls thicker. In his case, probably not a lot. But, it MIGHT just be what's giving him the extra neck tension he doesn't need. Which would contribute to the overall problem he's having.
Neck turning is needed though, as previously explained, in what I do. Necking down lapua 308's to 243 and 260 to gain a consistent .014" neck. We do it in steps and annealing every step. 308 to 7mm, 7mm to 260, 260 to 243. And all that circumferential brass squeezed down makes a very thick neck that is perfect for turning what we want.
It's what we prefer to do factoring in our chambers, the sizing/expanding dies we use, the neck tension we want, and the durability of a thicker neck. Standard lapua 243 and 260 run on average 013" (at least the batches we've tried), and I say average because there IS slight thick/thin even with lapua. Standard lapua caliber correct brass doesn't do what we want, so we neck down 308s and make what we want.
We turn instead of ream because I can adjust my neck turning rig to exactly the thickness I want and completely control the process that way. Which not only dictates neck thickness, but ALSO cleans up any thick/thin present at the same time, something a reamer won't do. Done once and done forever.
Oh, and, it's too late to suck up now ol' boy. Just sayin'.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
