It is a mauser. You need to get the center to center dimensions of the guard screws to pin it down a little closer. It looks like a small ring version, most likely a model 93, 94, 95, or 96. If it has the longer guard ring spacing it would be for a small ring 98, such as a Kar 98A
1) Can you be more exact with the guard screw spacing? There's no exact 7.5" spacing for any of the Mauser variants. The closest (converted from metric) would be 7.620”-7.625” for the typical “short action” small-ring 93-94-95-96 and the intermediate-action large-ring Mexican Mauser 1910-1936, FN/Belgium & Yugolsavia M24-M47-M48, and last the Siamese Mauser. (Note the M24 is not to be confused with the VZ24 which is a standard-length action.)
2) These all have a length of approximately 8.50” versus 8.75” for the standard-length 98, which BTW has a guard screw spacing of approximately 7.835” or approximately 7-7/8”.
3) a.The Model 93-94-95-96 series are straight-walled with a diameter of 1.300” b. The M1910,M1936,M24,M47,M48 all have expanded front ring sections with diameters of 1.410”, wider than the rest of the receiver width c. The Siamese action is straight-walled but with a fat 1.410" diameter-width for the entire receiver.
So for your stock, you need to measure as closely as you can the guard screw hole spacing, the inletted receiver length, plus the inletted receiver width at the front end. This should help you eliminate at least what it was NOT intended for. If the dimensions are over-sized for any of those above, you should be able to do this. Don’t let under-size inletting throw you off, as many inletters are understandably cautious, as many military actions exhibit production variations in widths and also some have been arsenal-rebuilt/refinished, many more than once.
As for the apparent blind magazine box inlet: I’ve done a few of these and the only other stocks I’ve seen this done for are for the target rifles. Usually these have the very long ADL-type trigger guard. What's more likely is the inletter left the bottom unmolested because there’s so much variation in M98 bottom metal especially in the front guard screw area - the ‘tang’ extending forward of the guard screw can vary almost 1/2”. Like wise many use commercial or aftermarket bottom metal which can vary significantly from the military stuff. Back when I did nothing but wood, many times the bottom metal "pre-inlet" was a bigger concern than the receiver. Since I'm doing nothing but composites these days, I just “fix” the gaps and variances with reinforced epoxy.
A last comment: K98junkie, this is not directed at you but to all the others who continually seek technical help and information. Please understand how important to define your questions with the most exact information that you have - before you seek help from others - especially measurements. (For Pete’s sake if all you have is a ruler, go down to Harbor Freight and get a rudimentary basic digital micrometer for $20.)
As always, feel free to PM me with more specific questions.
AKA The P-Man
If you cherish your memories with kids, be a good role model . . . . so the RIGHT memories of you mean something to them.
Actually that data should be a sticky for all the folks that continually find "Mauser" stuff and can not fit it to anything Mauser they have. A Mauser can be like anything painted "white".
Gunparts sent me a bunch of parts, they looked OK upon arrival and so I sprayed them with oil then put them in a Zip-lock bag in a drawer. Ten years later discovered the trigger guard they sent to me was for a different model Mauser than the part I ordered, it looked the same but the action holes were a just wee bit different. Ordered another one, it was correct. Gunparts is very good, but Mausers can be a pit of snakes at times.
“To expect defeat is nine-tenths of defeat itself. It becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. It is best to plan for all eventualities then believe in success, and only cross the failure bridge if you come to it." Francis Marion - The Swamp Fox
