Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires 10/22 to build or to buy?

I know some of you get pizzed when I say you can build a good 10/22 on the cheap, and still end up with a damn fine shooting rifle. I did, and have done this multiple times. You start out by finding a good quality used rifle, if you don't already have one. Then you start in with testing the factory configuration to see how well it shoots. Keeping in mind, that if you want to replace a part, or upgrade a part, that is totally up to you. However, in this thread I am going to be talking about building one on the "cheap", and doing some of the work yourself.

One of the first things I'll do, to start in with the accurizing process is headspacing the bolt. You can read about this on some sites like rimfire central, so I won't go into too much detail. The idea here is to minimize, or reduce the amount of fliers your rifle will produce, but adjusting the headspacing on the face of the bolt (bolt face). Generally most factory Ruger 10/22 rifles come with a sloppy headspacing. This is so you can shoot multiple brands of ammo reliably. However, I've seen some factory bolts measure about .050", which is too sloppy for my taste. I believe the minimum SAAMI spec is .043". Because of this minimum spec, I'll shoot for around .044" when I resurface the bolt face on my 10/22's. The best way to check this is with a depth mic.


However, if you don't have one of those, you can use the tail end of your caliper. The important thing here is to make sure you keep your bolt face as square to the barrel as possible. I always check the mating surfaces with dykem blue. I probably won't show a lot of pictures of some of these processes. I will also show a new rifle that I just bought, and you be the judge, as to which way you may want to go if it were you wanting a good 10/22.

So on to the next thing that I'll generally buy for my 10/22 rifle. A good stock. I like and use the Magpul X-22 stock. They are around $125.00 on ebay right now. A great stock for the price tag. They have a lot of adjustment for length of pull, and you can also change the cheek piece, if you need to. These stocks are very lightweight, and are cool because you can use a factory barrel, or switch the barrel channel inserts around and you can use a .920" heavy barrel. A useful feature for sure.

Next on the list is working over the factory trigger. Keeping in mind, I'm trying to do this on a budget. I really like the Volquartsen trigger parts, such as the target hammer and trigger kit. Those will generally set you back about $60.00, and you get a great trigger, if you want to spend the time doing it.

Talking about spending time doing something, the auto bolt release mod is a great one. Who likes messing with the factory cluster fu ck of a bolt release on these rifles??? Not me. Anyway, to do it right and quick you will need to remove some material on this piece:

It's located inside your trigger housing. It is very easy to get to. Remove 2 pins and its out. This is the tool I like to use:

That carbide bit makes short work of this process:

I know, in another thread I said it only takes 3 seconds: I lied. It took 10 seconds, after I put it in the vise and started grinding away at the material. It's simple, if you have the tools.

Now, if you found that your factory barrel is not shooting dime sized groups, or living up to your accuracy expectations, buy an aftermarket barrel. The choice is up to you. However, I like and use the Kidd barrels because they are guaranteed to shoot 1/2" at 50 yards with match grade ammo. These barrels are not a spin of the roulette wheel either. They shoot damn well. The other day, I was on ebay and saw a nice stainless 20" heavy barrel for $257.00. Back a few years ago, when I built my current rifle, I believe the 20" stainless fluted model was about that price.

Now, something that needs to be brought up is selling your original parts, to recoup some of the money you spent on the barrel and stock. Sell your original barrel and original stock. Sometimes you'll be amazed at how much someone is willing to pay for those items, if they are in good condition. It could possibly knock a couple hundred off the price of those parts you just bought. Something to keep in mind here.

If you are following along, this is what the rifle I described to you, looks like:


This is how a good Kidd barrel shoots:


I have something like $473.00 into this rifle.

In the next post, I'll share with you what I bought yesterday. It's a very good example of what is out there right now, if you get out there and look!!! I've been seeing some good deals on 10/22's lately. Some very good deals. Prices ranging from $175.00 and up. Any of you play with some of the 10/22 clones? You can even buy 80% receivers now too.

Now, to buy:

I found a cool clone yesterday. The receiver is made by Tactical Innovations, and it's stainless steel:


As you can see, it has a rail that is integral to the receiver. That makes for a great scope mounting alternative. I know some have stripped out those scope base holes in the 10/22 aluminum receiver. You don't have to worry about that with a receiver like this one.

This rifle has some good parts on it, including the Boydes At One competition stock, that is fully adjustable.


In this picture, I pulled the rifle apart to show what it came with. I left the barrel attached to the receiver. It is a stainless fluted and threaded 18" heavy barrel Green Mountain.


This stainless receiver is pretty nice. The bolt slides back and forth very smoothly:



It came with a matchgrade bolt. The headspace measured .0435", which is good enough for the girls i go with.


A nice feature that you find with some of these 10/22 clones is the hole in the back of the receiver for the purpose of cleaning the bore.


I like how they capped it off too. I don't think I'd ever modify a factory Ruger 10/22, but I welcome this feature on a 10/22 clone.

Anyway, this rifle set me back $575.00, but the parts used to build it cost much more. The way I see it, is you are money ahead by buying used.

I put an older Weaver V16 4-16x42 on top and will take it to the range later today. I'll test a bunch of different kinds of ammo and let you guys know how she does. I'm hoping this Green mountain barrel shoots better than the last one I had!!!


I also forgot to mention, this rifle is in dire need of a bedding job. But this is a shoot first and see how it does, then make some minor improvements to get it to shoot better thread. I'll keep you posted on that as well.

Great info and advice.

Kool. Looking forward to the testing!

This may be a dumb question but what method do you use to resurface the bolt face?

Thanks for posting. I am looking forward to reading more as I am wanting to put together a 10/22 for squirrel hunting and informal target shooting.

If you can find one of these it will shoot better than most shooters. This one comes with the Ruger BX trigger. It has a 20" mid-weight target barrel. If you don't go crazy heavy on a scope weight can be right at 7 lbs scoped which isn't too heavy to hunt with. The barrel weight makes it shoot well offhand.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/31173.html

These are a little easier to find. Same rifle with a wood stock and standard trigger. If you upgrade the trigger they shoot pretty well.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Sporter/specSheets/31167.html
https://ruger.com/products/1022Sporter/specSheets/31166.html

I have one of each. I got them for around $350. My Tikka T1x is a little more accurate, but not by much.

Try a Fedderson nickle bronze receiver

Good post BSA. Good refresher as I’m about to start tweaking my sons 10/22 with parts from Santa. Boy #2 might get his own also if Santa is feeling generous…

Thanks for the post!

I like the option of free floating the barrel on a 10-22 but I'm wondering if you only do that on a steel receiver?

On your Tactical Innovations stainless you have the barrel droop compensating V block. Is that barrel free floated?

Does a droop compensating v block also work on an aluminum receiver?

It hasn't been needed so far with my TALO LVT 10-22 but you never know...

Thanks!

Traveler,

Do you have one? If so your experience. I read a review that the interior finish was a bit rough.

Jerry

Very nice. Have you tried the factory LVT? Those look like damn good shooters, are not exceptionally heavy and are priced very well. I think if a guy was pinching pennies, that would be damn hard to beat.

Alright guys. I see there is some interest, which is great. I will go over some range time with you then. The last 2 days have been miserable here. It snowed the first day I went out. I had to sit in the car for 30 minutes waiting for the snow to slow down. It would have just caked the inside of the objective lens if I didn't wait it out.

First day before touching the bedding on the rifle:



First group:


Second group:


Third group:


4th group:


5th group:


Last group from yesterday (12-1-23):


That RWS Semi Auto ammo is looking like some damn good stuff.. Accuracy was not very good, keeping in mind this was shot before the necessary bedding work and the weather was crappy. The reason I did not shoot many groups this day. On the next post, I'll show the results of todays range testing, after bedding work. Weather was dryier, which was very nice, but it was windier than hell!!!

Ok, new day and some bedding under that receiver!!!!


This is what I call a 6 minute bedding job on a 10/22. I have done the same thing to my Magpul stocked Ruger 10/22 rifle:


This adds support under a void, that you can sometimes have on these rifles. This new rifle was horrible. By doing this, it allows you to tighten the action screw any way you like and it will not have an effect on the rifles accuracy. One test I always do is after shooting for a little while, loosen the action screw, then re-tighten the screw and see if you get a shift in POI. When done right, you will have no shift at all.

Anyway, todays shooting goes like this:
Note: read notes on the targets. You'll see a huge POI shift after bedding. Now the rifle is laying in the stock stress free. Before, it was being stressed. Obvious from the shift in POI:

Started off with the RWS Semi Auto, since that is where I left off the day before:


Strange how the first 2 groups look damn near identical^^^


Cheap Federal Automatch:



Only 1 scope adjustment I made today:

Fairly "zeroed", so I left it there for the rest of the day.




Now for the fun:



Better groups to come on the next post........

Boy, did I say it was windy??? Well, that rifle didn't care. The wind speeds were not nearly as much as the phone said. I'm kind of protected from the wind a little where I shoot. Yet, I'll bet the winds were a minimum of 10 mph and gust up to 15 anyway..

Groups be damned!!!!:



I can shoot hearts all day long with this rifle^^





I am showing what the rifle actually did with all types of ammo. From hunting ammo, hp's, and match grade stuff, semi auto ammo, and cheap bulk plinking ammo. I'm pretty happy with the rifle, and know it's going to be a shooting machine. Can't wait to have a calm day to shoot and see what it can really do!!!!!

Something that I should add is I've been burned before on Green Mountain barrels, but have buddies that have some that shoot lights out. I'm thinking this one is a good one. Further tests will prove that!!

You guys have had some good suggestions so far, keep them coming. Thanks!!! If you want, we can do a show and tell of what you have done to your Ruger 10/22 or clone. List parts, and show some pics. Let us know how they shoot too!!!

Honestly, I think the only thing I am going to add to this rifle is an extended magazine release lever. One like what I run on my Ruger 10/22:

It hangs out under the trigger guard and is very user friendly. I already have one ordered and will be here in a few days..

Wondering what the cost is? Is it actually a nickle bronze material, aluminum, or what? I am liking my stainless receiver. Don't look at the price of one of those though, they are over $500.00. Keeping in mind, when I started this thread, it was about keeping costs as low as you can. The reason I opted to buy this one. I knew the sum of the parts was worth way more than the complete rifle, so I laid down the cash.

I’m assuming these were shot at 50 yards?

What are you using for bedding compound?

BSA: What range did you shoot those groups? Thanks.

Yep, shot at 50 yards. When shooting competition at my club, we always shoot 50 yards rimfire. 10 shots on target are minimum as well, when we are shooting paper. Our speed shoots and head to head challenges are a little different, but always shot at 50 yards. Thanks for the replies.

It's quick and it's strong. All that is necessary for one of these rifles. I use Hornady one shot case lube for release agent. It works very well. Sometimes a modeling clay is needed, so it does not form a mechanical lock in the crevices of the bottom of the barrel V-block. This one was not bad, so I didn't even do that. Modeling clay can also be used to find out how thick your bedding material needs to be. The main thing is to not stress your barreled action when torquing your action screw down. This remedies that and also makes your rifle shoot more consistently. The other plus is I can remove the barreled action from the stock, clean it, put it back in the stock, tighten the action screw down as per usual and not have a shift in POI, or have to worry about what torque spec I used on the action screw.