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What is the best product to use to touch up a circular spot about the size of this "O" where the bluing has been rubbed off on a blued steel rifle receiver?

Maybe this:
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Fast-Drying-Fast-Acting-Restoring/dp/B000TTIEY6

Last edited by Triggernosis; 12/04/23.
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I’ve used that blue pen a good bit and it has worked great for me.

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Originally Posted by Houser52
I’ve used that blue pen a good bit and it has worked great for me.
Thanks - I'm getting ready to order one.

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I've had the best luck with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. I always get the metal hot with an old heat gun first and do it in layers. It won't replicate a deep, lustrous blue on a large spot, but it'll effectively hide small scraps and nicks or a worn crown.

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Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
I've had the best luck with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. I always get the metal hot with an old heat gun first and do it in layers. It won't replicate a deep, lustrous blue on a large spot, but it'll effectively hide small scraps and nicks or a worn crown.
Thanks

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Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
I've had the best luck with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. I always get the metal hot with an old heat gun first and do it in layers. It won't replicate a deep, lustrous blue on a large spot, but it'll effectively hide small scraps and nicks or a worn crown.

Absolutely agree! I use boiling water to preheat the metal, but heat is heat. The BC bluing products come in well short of Oxpho-Blue.


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without heat it won't matter what you use. Heat does it best, just warm to the touch. And being super clean is critical. Some may disagree but I used every bluing and it looks good when first applied but doesn't last. Followed instructions to the letter too, until a gunsmith told me about heat. Again, clean steel is critical. I scrub with 000 steel wool with degreaser and rinse scrub with wool.

Last edited by anothergun; 12/05/23.
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+1 on Oxpho blue, liquid or creme it's the best cold blue that I've found.

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Plus four on Oxpho Blue. More durable than one would think also. I once refinished a Winchester 67 on a dare entirely with Oxpho Blue. It turned out pretty nice if I do say so, and a buddy liked it so much he gave me more than I thought the poor thing was worth so he could give it to his pre-teen son. The kid is now in his early 20's and by all accounts rode that .22 hard but the bluing has held up nicely.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Plus four on Oxpho Blue. More durable than one would think also. I once refinished a Winchester 67 on a dare entirely with Oxpho Blue. It turned out pretty nice if I do say so, and a buddy liked it so much he gave me more than I thought the poor thing was worth so he could give it to his pre-teen son. The kid is now in his early 20's and by all accounts rode that .22 hard but the bluing has held up nicely.
Gary - what does your method look like in terms of steps? I typically degrease, heat, apply, wipe with oil, then repeat the process. I try to apply in small areas at a time and rub in the liquid to get the color as deep as possible.

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I’ve had good luck with Birchwood Casey bluing paste. Heat gun on the spot in question, not enough to sizzle the paste, but good and warm. I’ve done larger spots, sometimes 2 or 3 applications with rinse and repeat process is necessary to get a good blended result.

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Y'all, I want to touch up a spot literally about the size of the diameter of a #2 pencil lead.

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Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Y'all, I want to touch up a spot literally about the size of the diameter of a #2 pencil lead.
For tiny little spots I apply with a Q-tip.

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Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Y'all, I want to touch up a spot literally about the size of the diameter of a #2 pencil lead.
For tiny little spots I apply with a Q-tip.

Yep. Also, never contaminate the bluing solution with a dirty q-tip. Always use a clean one when reapplying. Heat the area you want to blue, and use a good bluing solution. I like super blue and Oxpho.


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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I have seen less than reputable dealers at gun shows using a black Magic Marker


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Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Plus four on Oxpho Blue. More durable than one would think also. I once refinished a Winchester 67 on a dare entirely with Oxpho Blue. It turned out pretty nice if I do say so, and a buddy liked it so much he gave me more than I thought the poor thing was worth so he could give it to his pre-teen son. The kid is now in his early 20's and by all accounts rode that .22 hard but the bluing has held up nicely.
Gary - what does your method look like in terms of steps? I typically degrease, heat, apply, wipe with oil, then repeat the process. I try to apply in small areas at a time and rub in the liquid to get the color as deep as possible.

I polish, degrease, heat, apply. Lightly rub out with oil-free 0000 steel wool, re-heat, apply, repeat as necessary until finish is even and color is satisfactory. Number of cycles depends a lot on alloy of the steel. I never oil until all done, then give everything a liberal slathering of oil and let sit overnight (applies to rust bluing projects also).

Small touch ups = Q-tip. Larger areas = small wad of clean white cotton flannel.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Plus four on Oxpho Blue. More durable than one would think also. I once refinished a Winchester 67 on a dare entirely with Oxpho Blue. It turned out pretty nice if I do say so, and a buddy liked it so much he gave me more than I thought the poor thing was worth so he could give it to his pre-teen son. The kid is now in his early 20's and by all accounts rode that .22 hard but the bluing has held up nicely.
Gary - what does your method look like in terms of steps? I typically degrease, heat, apply, wipe with oil, then repeat the process. I try to apply in small areas at a time and rub in the liquid to get the color as deep as possible.

I polish, degrease, heat, apply. Lightly rub out with oil-free 0000 steel wool, re-heat, apply, repeat as necessary until finish is even and color is satisfactory. Number of cycles depends a lot on alloy of the steel. I never oil until all done, then give everything a liberal slathering of oil and let sit overnight (applies to rust bluing projects also).

Small touch ups = Q-tip. Larger areas = small wad of clean white cotton flannel.
Thanks, Gary. I'm trying to recall why I included the oil step each time... I want to say it's because I originally watched a Potterfield video about how to do it and that's what he did. But I honestly don't remember now.

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You’re contaminating the bluing if you do that! Once you scrub to prep, then what l do is, just wipe with cool water and degreaser to clean off the oxidation and use a tooth brush to get in small areas. Dry..then reheat and repeat until desired bluing.


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