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Joined: Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by Feral_American
Originally Posted by Coyote10
I watched a deal about 5 years ago when that dude from Thomson long range mounted a scope. He used a string and plumb bob about 50 feet away to level the reticle after leveling the action.

If you don't have the 50 feet to work with then level your rifle up in a vice with the butt plate a foot or so from a light colored wall, or big piece of white poster board. Then with the lights in the room off, shine a strong flashlight through the objective lens of the scope. Fiddle with your focus and power until the image of the reticle is clear on the wall. Thumbtack a string with a fishing sinker on the wall as your plumb bob. Level your scope to the shadow of the plumb bob string. Never not works.

At my old house there was enough room in the basement that I could use a plumb bob in the regular fashion but here there isn't enough room to do that. I'll try this method. Thanks for posting that.


Those who are always shooting off at the mouth usually aren't shooting straight.



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We've been doing ours this way for years and we've been very successful as a Family.

HS 58


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My scope rings are in perfect alignment because the tips on my alignment bars are touching perfectly. grin

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

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🤣

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Originally Posted by VaHunter
My scope rings are in perfect alignment because the tips on my alignment bars are touching perfectly. grin

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Thanks for this ^.

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Originally Posted by VaHunter
My scope rings are in perfect alignment because the tips on my alignment bars are touching perfectly. grin

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I remember that thread - it was epic !!! No convincing that guy of the concept that the points could touch but the rings not be in alignment, even with the graphic.

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I recently mounted a scope on my tweaked 375 H&H M70 for a brown bear hunt next year using the Near one piece (a lightweight work of art frankly). They were very clear to not lap the mount. I did not and expect it to shoot well with the 3-9X Trijicon Accupoint. I have rifles where I lapped and some that I have not. All have killed.


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Don’t know why people fret themselves with ring alignment
Just use Burris signature rings
You can align it straight or elevate if you find you don’t have enough clicks
Kenneth

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Originally Posted by EdM
I recently mounted a scope on my tweaked 375 H&H M70 for a brown bear hunt next year using the Near one piece (a lightweight work of art frankly). They were very clear to not lap the mount. I did not and expect it to shoot well with the 3-9X Trijicon Accupoint. I have rifles where I lapped and some that I have not. All have killed.

I have a set of those Near mount/rings for a 700 SA for sale in the classifieds.

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Originally Posted by gunzo
Originally Posted by VaHunter
My scope rings are in perfect alignment because the tips on my alignment bars are touching perfectly. grin

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Thanks for this ^.

I'm pretty impressed with the drawing.😆

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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by dave284
Originally Posted by VaHunter
Now the purpose, as I see it, of lapping rings is to get the axis through the two rings in perfect alignment so that no lateral torque/bending is exerted on the scope tube. Scope tube diameters vary from one manufacture to another, our own John Barness just recently mention the variations in tube diameters, and I suspect these variations in diameter even exist from models within a single manufactures line. Now you add in that there are variations in the diameters of lapping bars and you can see where lapping does not insure a perfectly round ring. If you start out with the perfect ring and a undersize lapping bar your ring will be out of round and will have more contact pressure on the sides of the scope tube than the bottom. Conversely if the lapping bar is oversize the bottom of the scope tube will have more pressure applied than at the sides.

I would think that this small amount of pressure difference is insignificant in the operations of the scope internals. What is important is that the two rings are perfectly aligned so as to not have a torsional bending of the scope tube. This can be accomplished by just lapping the bottom of the ring which will allow the scope tube to sit as straight as possible without the torsional force of misaligned rings.

I would submit that if rings are perfectly round the chances of your lapping bar matching the exact diameter of your rings or the scope tube to be very slim.

I have saw this same topic several times over the years. That is the best description of why it is only necessary to lap the bottom ring that I have saw. And maybe, why it really isn't that important to do at the same time.

That being said, I'll probably keep doing both halves when I do it. I don't do it every time and couldn't really tell you why I do when I do, except that it sometimes give me the warm fuzzies. Personally, I've not seen it make a difference in accuracy when done to a rifle of previously known accuracy.
Even the scope tube on my $2300 Nightforce Competition scope vary .003" from end to end...
Lap the bottom rings, bed the scope afterwards. You'll be GTG.

And the reason he beds the scope afterwards, is

1. that lapping bars wear.

2. The OD of the lapping bar and the scope tube will not be the same. Close but not the same.

The bedding should be a non filler type epoxy. ( JB )

This is a very good method of getting 100% contact that is stress free. Scopes don’t slip this way, even heavy scopes in light rifles with heavy recoiling chamberings.

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With good technique when mounting bases lapping of rings is a waste of time and can do much more damage than good.

But I tend to shoot a bit further than most.


John Burns

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They can't stop the signal.

Joined: Dec 2023
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I just lap the bottom half. For alignment i do put the lapping rod in the bottom half of the rings before tightening them down.

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