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SCgman1 Offline OP
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Inertia vs mechanical.......do you have a preference and why?

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No. So long as the pull is crisp and relatively light. I like 3 1/2 to 4#.

Some put a lot of weight into their argument that a mechanical trigger lets you have another useful shot in the field in case the first is a dud. I can’t recall that ever being a factor, and I’ve done a lot of bird hunting.

Seems the greatest argument for mechanical triggers is made by folks who shoot multi-gauge sets.

Good triggers can be had in both persuasions, bad ones too. And beware of anyone’s advice on shotguns and shotgunning who says good triggers don’t matter.

Last edited by GF1; 01/10/24.
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I suppose I would prefer mechanical triggers while hunting if there were dangerous game nearby, but I have never experienced problems with either type of trigger while hunting.

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Inertials for me. Sometimes have to mess with them to work with .410 tubes.

Trouble with mechanicals is fan-fire (bump-fire) risk. Some people cannot shoot a Win 21 without it "doubling". Happily, I'm not one of those.

As nice as K-gun triggers are, some guys have the same problem with them.

I have no intention of buying, let alone using, a DGR double. But it would have double triggers.

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My own fault, but years ago I thought I had to have a Browning Superposed, and without studying the options...I ended up with a single trigger mechanical...in order to fire the second barrel you have to move the safety/barrel selector in a U pattern...back, side shift, forward...if you don't shoot the gun frequently, or drill with it a few times before using it, it frustrating and seemingly takes forever when birds are flushing.
Browning in those days offered a bewildering array of options, and in my haste to buy...I chose the wrong one for any practical hunting situation.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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mechanical.
been around for decades.
work just fine.


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Originally Posted by flintlocke
My own fault, but years ago I thought I had to have a Browning Superposed, and without studying the options...I ended up with a single trigger mechanical...in order to fire the second barrel you have to move the safety/barrel selector in a U pattern...back, side shift, forward...if you don't shoot the gun frequently, or drill with it a few times before using it, it frustrating and seemingly takes forever when birds are flushing.
Browning in those days offered a bewildering array of options, and in my haste to buy...I chose the wrong one for any practical hunting situation.

Is this when dry firing or when you actually shoot the first barrel? When dry fairing you have to bump the stock to set the second barrel. If the second situation then something....most likely the inertia block is not working correctly. Call Arts gun shop or Browning.

Last edited by battue; 01/10/24.

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I have both and as stated above, if they are crisp and clean, don't know that I care. If I had to pick one, I guess I would go for mechanical just because if something happened to the shell (say it did not fire) you could still have a shot with the other barrel.


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I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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Originally Posted by flintlocke
My own fault, but years ago I thought I had to have a Browning Superposed, and without studying the options...I ended up with a single trigger mechanical...in order to fire the second barrel you have to move the safety/barrel selector in a U pattern...back, side shift, forward...if you don't shoot the gun frequently, or drill with it a few times before using it, it frustrating and seemingly takes forever when birds are flushing.
Browning in those days offered a bewildering array of options, and in my haste to buy...I chose the wrong one for any practical hunting situation.

I’m a little puzzled by this. All properly operating Browning Superposed single triggers, whether they be inertia or mechanical fire the second shot by simply pulling the trigger again.

In the case of an inertia trigger that either balks (fails to switch to the second barrel or in case of a dud (no recoil) on the first shot, all the shooter needs to do is pull the safety back to safe and push it forward again and it will fire the second barrel. You should never have to move the safety/barrel selector manually to the second barrel.

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Hmm, Thanks Battue and GF...I think you just woke me up...I may have two things going on here, most likely my reloads are too light for the inertia mechanism...or...lack of cleanliness, gummy oil restricting free movement of the weight.

Last edited by flintlocke; 01/10/24.

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I had both in my dble barrels, the only advantage I can see for mechanical is if the flush is a bit far you can reach back for the full choke trigger.


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Mechanical is a single trigger. It switches to the other barrel when the first trigger is pulled, mechanically, does not need recoil to do this. You are referring to double triggers, completely different.

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Mechanical for me. I have seen some problems with inertia triggers, particularly in sub-gauge guns with light loads in the hands of shooting pals on clays. I’ve also seen some examples pf doubling, the worst in a B27 (IIRC) back in the 80s when they were being sold as a poor-mans Browning. My cousin bought one, and it doubled on him frequently; very painful! Another friend had it happen a few weeks ago at clays with some gun he had inherited, and that one is off for repairs.

As far as “fanning” goes, I didn’t know the term, but I’ve done it myself, did it today in fact, just eagerness on the second bird. Did it a time or two with an A5 as well.

Another advantage of the mechanical is that if you have a misfire, or forget to move the selector when shooting a single, you merely have to pull the trigger again to fire. Unfortunately, I haven’t trained myself to do that yet; seems I’m an old dog….


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