Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Franklin stuck case remover

Yeah, one of my very few instances of a stuck case was with Hornady One-Shot--but still use it for smaller cases like the .17 and .22 Hornets, because it's so much quicker to apply to a bunch of cases. But Hornet cases are not only small, but the .22 Hornet is also pretty tapered, which helps prevent sticking. (Though I also usually only neck-size both rounds, until the cases are fired enough to start extracting a little harder from the rifles.)

I've actually done thousands and I mean thousands of cases with Hornady one shot but you zero issues. but I also apply liberally and do like instructions say but.

if I'm doing larger size Magnum cases or something even like 45 70 here that there's lots of friction area or especially in doing cases on a reforming die. I just don't ask for issues.

1/4x20 tap, bolt, socket get them out. I’ve stuck two, went to Imperial sizing wax, no more stuck cases.

Yeah, haven't stuck one yet with Imperial--except the one I deliberately stuck, as described earlier.

I guess I've stuck four or five in my lifetime. The way I figure it, that new FA tool is about as handy as it gets. I think I'll get one and set it on the shelf in plain sight, taking up room...and that way, I won't ever need it.

Hornady one shot works great. If you read and follow the directions printed on the can.

Bless you. Imperial sizing wax forever. I've tried everything from 50 weight motor oil to STP, and none of it works as well.

I've had good luck with Hornady Unique, in the tub. I use and like Imperial as well, but sometimes the Hornady lube in the tub is more convenient because I can smear it on my hands and lube a couple hundred cases in about two minutes and be done with that step. If I'm working with just a dozen or twenty cases I'll lube them one at a time with Imperial.

Being made out of beef tallow, Hornady Unique also works as a boot waterproofing, leather softner and as you said hand lotion. 😀

I have gotten about 20 cases stuck in various brands of dies. I usually drill the bottom of the case and use an "Easy Out". Sometimes I damage the decapping rod and have to get another. This tool looks like it will save me a lot of time and no more damaged decapping rods.
I size cases in my truck with a Lee Hand Press. I sit at places (sometime for hours), waiting in line to get loaded. Sizing cases at least makes my time productive. I use Hornady One Shot a lot (all the time except when forming cases). I spray outside the truck, so I figure wind may have something to due with a case missing a blast of lube. On the larger cases I am slowly switching to Hornady Unique. It seems to be working well, but cleaning my hands in the truck can be problematic. I do carry a tub of Clorox wipes, but they can dry my skin out kinda quick. I'm gonna try some Imperial sizing wax, I've only been told about it for 45 years, so I guess it is not a fad.

Imperial was one of the best pieces of useful
reloading advice I got since the initial mentor
showed me the process years ago.
And I've been given a big dump truck full of
BS reloading advice to sort through over the
years as well.
Imperial is good stuff. One little tin container
will last a long time when properly applied
Good Luck

Very true. It keeps my hands lovely.

I live in a rural area and my only source for reloading supplies are mail order or do without until I make a trip to the city. I ran out of case lube one time and a friend recommended using Anhydrous Lanolin for case lube, which is what the Hornady Unique appears to be - both work quite well. But IMO there is nothing better than Imperial case lube.

drover

Wrong taint no lanolin in it.




We all know what Tallow is.
#2 is baby oil
#3 is food grade coloration and sometimes used for flavoring. Makes the stuff white.
#4 is self explanatory

Is lanolin considered hazardous?

It’s expensive, and it has pesticides in it.

Crude lanolin constitutes about 5–25% of the weight of freshly shorn wool. The wool from one Merino sheep will produce about 250–300 ml of recoverable wool grease. Lanolin is extracted by washing the wool in hot water with a special wool scouring detergent to remove dirt, wool grease (crude lanolin), suint (sweat salts), and anything else stuck to the wool. The wool grease is continuously removed during this washing process by centrifuge separators, which concentrate it into a waxlike substance melting at approximately 38 °C (100 °F).[7]


In addition to general purity requirements, lanolin must meet official requirements for the permissible levels of pesticide residues. The Fifth Supplement of the United States Pharmacopoeia XXII published in 1992 was the first to specify limits for 34 named pesticides. A total limit of 40 ppm (i.e. 40 mg/kg) total pesticides was stipulated for lanolin of general use, with no individual limit greater than 10 ppm.[2]

Update there isnt any Lanolin in one shot spray or tub. Trade secret

I've made some of my own case lube before using 99.9% Isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin. I can't remember the ratio for sure but it seems like it was either one in five or one in 10. it does a great job for lube but it is harder to clean off than most other stuff I use..

When I see the header "Hazardous components" the SDS is only listing components considered hazardous. Not necessarily an exhaustive list of all ingredients.

#2 isn't mink oil?