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Is there an electrician in the house?

I am starting on electrical for my shipping container cabin. I have studded the outside with metal studs and plan to run my electrical outside to junction boxes.

Is there a code for height of receptical boxes off floor?

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SECTION1136A
ELECTRICAL RECEPTACLE,
SWITCH AND CONTROL HEIGHTS
1136A.1Receptacle heights.

Electrical receptacle outlets on branch circuits of 30 amperes or less and communication system receptacles shall be located no more than 48 inches (1219 mm) measured from the top of the receptacle outlet box nor less than 15 inches (381 mm) measured from the bottom of the receptacle outlet box to the level of the finished floor or working platform. If the reach is over a physical barrier or an obstruction (for example, a kitchen base cabinet), receptacles shall be located within the reach ranges specified in Section 1138A.3. Physical barriers and obstructions shall not extend more than 25 inches (635 mm) from the wall beneath the receptacle. Countertops shall be allowed to extend 251/2 inches (647.7 mm) from the wall beneath the receptacle.

Receptacle outlets that do not satisfy these specifications are acceptable provided that comparable receptacle outlets, that perform the same functions, are provided within the same area and are accessible.

Exceptions:

1.Receptacle outlets installed as part of permanently installed baseboard heaters are exempt.

2.Required receptacle outlets shall be permitted in floors when adjacent to sliding panels or walls.

3.Baseboard electrical outlets used in relocatable partitions, window walls or other electrical convenience floor outlets are not subject to the minimum height requirements.

4.This section shall not apply to existing buildings when the enforcing agency determines that compliance with these standards would create an unreasonable hardship.



hope I got the correct section


https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/CABC202...bility/CABC2022P1-Ch11A-SubCh04-Sec1136A

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Originally Posted by tripod3
SECTION1136A
ELECTRICAL RECEPTACLE,
SWITCH AND CONTROL HEIGHTS
1136A.1Receptacle heights.

Electrical receptacle outlets on branch circuits of 30 amperes or less and communication system receptacles shall be located no more than 48 inches (1219 mm) measured from the top of the receptacle outlet box nor less than 15 inches (381 mm) measured from the bottom of the receptacle outlet box to the level of the finished floor or working platform. If the reach is over a physical barrier or an obstruction (for example, a kitchen base cabinet), receptacles shall be located within the reach ranges specified in Section 1138A.3. Physical barriers and obstructions shall not extend more than 25 inches (635 mm) from the wall beneath the receptacle. Countertops shall be allowed to extend 251/2 inches (647.7 mm) from the wall beneath the receptacle.

Receptacle outlets that do not satisfy these specifications are acceptable provided that comparable receptacle outlets, that perform the same functions, are provided within the same area and are accessible.

Exceptions:

1.Receptacle outlets installed as part of permanently installed baseboard heaters are exempt.

2.Required receptacle outlets shall be permitted in floors when adjacent to sliding panels or walls.

3.Baseboard electrical outlets used in relocatable partitions, window walls or other electrical convenience floor outlets are not subject to the minimum height requirements.

4.This section shall not apply to existing buildings when the enforcing agency determines that compliance with these standards would create an unreasonable hardship.



hope I got the correct section


https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/CABC202...bility/CABC2022P1-Ch11A-SubCh04-Sec1136A


That is not a NEC (national electric code) rule.

In the USA we go by NEC not ICC safe.

Being citizens of the United States of America we enjoy the freedom of placing a electrical outlet at any fk'in height we wish to.

You can install one in your ceiling or even in your floor if you so desire.

PRAISE GOD!








15 inches from floor to top of box is common...

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Great, that helps.
I will make up a couple dummy outlet boxes with magnets on back to space them out.

I plan to spray foam between the metal studs. Does spraying over romex require anything special given the heat the spray foam produces?

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NEC allows for a single cable to be encased with spray foam insulation but not a bundle of cables.

FYI

'If' your romex is passing through your metal studs, UL listed bushings are required.

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Sorry thought I clicked on one of the states on menu.

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NEC does have requirements, for both commercial and residential. There's one for Americans with Disabilities Act, but not sure if it's required in all residential. States that no receptacle shall be located less than 15" from the finished floor. But in general, with all walls more than 24" in width, no point on such walls can be more than 6' from a receptacle. There can be more but not less. And if I remember right floor receptacles count, but not ceiling receptacles. I believe they are all located in NEC 210-52. I think they made some changes in 2020 dealing with kitchens and basements but not sure exactly what they are.

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I am going to have a bundle of Romex going above the door frames because of power to each mini split heat/ac.
Can the conduit be pvc?

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Yes, but might need to use expansion fittings, it's in the NEC but not sure where. (I would caution though for a short distance only) otherwise Romex is not allowed in conduit...

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Originally Posted by JeffA
Being citizens of the United States of America we enjoy the freedom of placing a electrical outlet at any fk'in height we wish to.

You can install one in your ceiling or even in your floor if you so desire.

PRAISE GOD!

LOL !!


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I've got a container that I would like to wire. I'll be putting outlets at "convenient" locations, not NEC. I'll also wire with MC (metal clad) wire. Little more expensive, but a lot more resistant to rats and mice! 😉
Herr in OK, "mats & rice" will/can chew into anything! My 1 ton truck battery terminals have tooth marks on them when rat's chewed on them!

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Personally, I don't know why anyone would want them so close to the floor. If I had my way, I'd have them all at least 48" off the floor.

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I put my garage outlet tops at 48" off the floor all around, except the outside ones, for reasons that should be obvious. and reinforced the sheetrock cut-outs on the back with thin plywood, especially at sheetrock joins. I also used double outlet boxes, each box having 2 seperate circiuts. Haven't blown a breaker yet! smile

If I'd been able to afford it at the time, I'd have backed the sheetrock with OSB. (Put a screw in anywhere!).

When we put in doggie windows below our main windows in the LR, there were two outlets moved to the baseboard below them. I preferred not to eliminate them, and they are useful there.

In our purchased as a shell rec cabin, we moved the original "kitchen" diagonally across the building, moving the 16" high recepticles there up to kitchen counter top height. The original "kitchen" recepticles were left alone, at the higher levels, and work very well indeed in the bedroom now there.

Why do women always put something in front of lower down electrical repticles???

Last edited by las; 01/27/24.

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Originally Posted by Greyghost
Personally, I don't know why anyone would want them so close to the floor. If I had my way, I'd have them all at least 48" off the floor.

Phil

IIRC, standard (NEC) light switch height is 51".
Yeah, cabinet height plugs (i.e. kitchen counter) I believe are 40"/42".

If it's "your" shop/cabin, put 'em where YOU want them. Just keep in mind if you ever want to sell, a prospective buyer may not be impressed with outlet height.

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There is no NEC standard for switch heights, but 48" to center is industry standard on residential and commercial jobs unless noted otherwise or unusual circumstances- like building a house for little people or people in wheelchairs . I've put switches beside beds so the owners could turn off their lights from bed without getting up and those are usually at 30"-36" . Lower receptacles are the rule for convenience outlets for use in plugging in lamps, TVs , and other devices that are common in homes. Commercial is a different ball game and not to be considered in this discussion IMO. There are other codes about where receptacles need to be located in kitchens, distance from the sink, height above the counter, and number of receptacle circuits. Code generally requires two 20 Amp circuits for kitchens, GFIs required. Most electricians I know also include dedicated receptacle circuits for the Dishwasher, Disposal, Microwave, and sometimes the Refrigerator.

There are lots of other code articles that apply to this, but too much to type here. Best to consult with an electrician to get the latest codes and the changes your jurisdiction has made to the NEC to fit their requirements... the NEC is not always adopted by a state or municipality in its entirety . Many states make their own addendum to the NEC to fit their circumstances before the legislature in that state adopts the code . Once the legislature adopts the code in their language with addendums, it becomes law- hence enforcement powers are granted.


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Originally Posted by Greyghost
NEC does have requirements, for both commercial and residential.

Phil

No they don't.

The NEC list 'typical' heights but not required heights.

The OPs question, the way I read it was height requirements for general application, I could go on for pages quoting NEC codes for specific applications but that wasn't his question.

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Just a random thought, do you ground the metal building or leave it "floating?". Consequences of either or doesn't it matter?


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Definitely grounded.

NEC rules for standard metal buildings apply to shipping containers converted to office or living space.

I'd install two standard grounding rods @ 6ft spacing and run a bonding jumper to the steel container bolted in a prepped area free of paint and coated with a suitable electrical contact grease.

No matter if my power source was from public utility or portable generator.

Excellent question for the topic

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I'd ground it.


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Originally Posted by JeffA
Definitely grounded.

NEC rules for standard metal buildings apply to shipping containers converted to office or living space.

I'd install two standard grounding rods @ 6ft spacing and run a bonding jumper to the steel container bolted in a prepped area free of paint and coated with a suitable electrical contact grease.

No matter if my power source was from public utility or portable generator.

Excellent question for the topic

Thanks.


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