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I am in desperate need of education for how to properly take care of good leather. This could be anything from nice leather car seats, a new Bianchi thumb tab holster I recently acquired for a S&W model 67, a few really nice Weatherby slings that need a freshening, and even cleaning up some of my work shoes


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Are you ready for at least 3 dozen different answers?


The desert is a true treasure for him who seeks refuge from men and the evil of men.
In it is contentment
In it is death and all you seek
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L e a t h e r * c o n d i t i o n e r .


Don't ask me about my military service or heroic acts...most of it is untrue.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe
L e a t h e r * c o n d i t i o n e r .
+1

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Originally Posted by Valsdad
Are you ready for at least 3 dozen different answers?

I hope one of them involves 97 coats of some obscure chemical that stopped being made in the 60s, with burnishing in between with an actual live mink. Accompanied by photos of the completed work on a coffee table.

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Having MANY leather holsters all the way back to SevenTrees for an original Walther PPK:
Use quality shoe polish, sparingly. Anything else is risking softening the leather too much ruining its holster shape for the pistol. Shoe polish also takes care of scratches.


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Clean with saddle soap, and finish with netural color shoe polish.

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Montana Sling Leather Treatment.


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Originally Posted by Stickfight
Originally Posted by Valsdad
Are you ready for at least 3 dozen different answers?

I hope one of them involves 97 coats of some obscure chemical that stopped being made in the 60s, with burnishing in between with an actual live mink. Accompanied by photos of the completed work on a coffee table.

Ha!


DON’T BE TOO PROUD OF THIS TECHNOLOGICAL TERROR YOU’VE CONSTRUCTED. THE ABILITY TO DESTROY A PLANET IS INSIGNIFICANT NEXT TO THE POWER OF THE FORCE.

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Treatment depends on the type and the condition of the leather. For virtually any type of leather (except suede) clean with saddle soap as Heym06 mentioned above. Get one of those little round natural bristle brushes that are used for shoe polish, but use it only for saddle soap - no polish. Dip the brush in warm water and work up a lather in the saddle soap tin, then brush the leather piece in a circular motion until clean. Then wipe clean with a dry cloth, then wipe again with a damp cloth to remove any residue. Let dry fully.

Next step: for fine leather, use a conditioner such as Connolly, Wolfgang or Lexol. Any of these will work well for automotive, scabbards, holsters, furniture or leather furniture. I generally use Wolfgang for automotive interiors, if I have it on hand. I would not use shoe polish on anything - it rubs off under any type of friction and can stain easily; however, if you must use shoe polish, make sure you buff off as much as possible. After this procedure, buff with a soft cotton cloth, if desired. Buffing with a live Mink, as Stickfight mentioned above, is also highly desirable, if you should have one available, though you should wear heavy gloves 'cause that live Mink will bite the living schit out of you.

For older, dry or cracked leather, or boots, clean in the manner above with saddle soap and let dry fully, then use Neatsfoot oil and rub into the dry leather until somewhat pliable, if not supple. Boots generally only need one coat of Neatsfoot oil. I don't recommend using Neatsfoot oil more than a couple of times per year; otherwise, the leather will get too soft and loose shape.

Last edited by High_Noon; 01/29/24.

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Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP or Murphy’s Oil Soap full strength right out of the bottle, certainly not the best, but both have worked for me.


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Neatsfoot oil, but it does darken the leather


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I appreciate the information so far. I have some conditioner from a Lexol spray bottle for car leather, just wondering if there are better options. I used it on the holster last night and it seemed to do a good job.

Have a leather repair question. I noticed the tab on the inside of the thumb break has separated slightly. Not a huge deal, but would like to fix it and stop from growing. Advice please?
I do not not know what to use to "glue" leather. Here is a photo.

[Linked Image]


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Try this and thank me later

https://leatherbetter.ca/


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Barge contact cement will glue that separation. Follow the directions. Let dry, burnish the edges.


l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
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I use Lexol, if you want a good oil try Fiebing's Saddle Oil. Saddle Oil will not stain clothing like Neat's Foot Oil

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Originally Posted by High_Noon
Barge contact cement will glue that separation. Follow the directions. Let dry, burnish the edges.

No idea how to "burnish the edge". Have Googled it but hoping for a way to do this without expensive tool for a small repair.


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Stay away from whatever Maxine Waters' cosmetologist uses.

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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe
L e a t h e r * c o n d i t i o n e r .

That was easy enough. Next topic.


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Originally Posted by cotis
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Barge contact cement will glue that separation. Follow the directions. Let dry, burnish the edges.

No idea how to "burnish the edge". Have Googled it but hoping for a way to do this without expensive tool for a small repair.

You don't need an expensive tool to burnish. Tandy Leather has several burnishing tools under $10.00. and Tracanth for $5.99, which is a burnishing solution. In lieu of a burnishing tool, you can use a piece of antler or bone, but these do not have the grooves of a proper tool, though they do work. You can find directions online. You can also use other things as a burnishing solution. All this info can be found online.

Last edited by High_Noon; 01/29/24.

l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right.
- Del Gue
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