I bought this from a guy at work years ago. I’m going to sell it. What information do I need to find about it before I can put it up for sale. I’ve fired it with H4895 and 150 grain partitions, shot a 2” group at 50 yards, first time I’d ever shot a high powered rifle with open sights. I put it in the safe, been there 20 years. I need to see if it is all H&R parts, know that, what else? Thanks in advance I have no idea how to fairly price this. Prices are all over the place on GunBroker
There are plenty of tutorials out there, both digital and print form, that can lead you through the rabbit hole of parts identification. My advice would be to arm yourself with that knowledge and go through the gun and make the determination. A 100% correct tally of the parts (unlikely) will command a higher price than if it contains 50% correct parts (likely) - if you're aiming for top dollar amongst the white glove collector fraternity. When it comes to Garands, "parts is parts". The gov't didn't care about keeping "correct" parts in place when these rifles were submitted for repair/overhaul, and if the gun saw any amount of service it was treated thusly. If the market audience is shooters/users/admirers then the basic protocols of bore condition and overall condition/utility apply as it does for any used gun and consultation of actual selling prices is your guide to real-world worth.
Garands have become like 1911's and 1911A1's with an ever-increasing number of guys who thrill in the minutiae of parts correctness, inspector stamps, subtleties in finish variations, etc. Thankfully insanely strict guidelines were in place to guarantee absolute interchangeability, in the interest of quick and dirty repairs in the field. Good for keeping the guns firing in the face of Krauts, Japs, and Chi-coms, not so much for the modern day collectors who have nothing better to do than analyze parts numbers.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
I have no idea what to ask, trying to figure out what it’s worth. I need to take it up to gun shop, see if it is all correct or not. I don’t want to f….. myself or anyone else either.
If you have mixed parts (check trigger group - easiest and fastest way to know IMO without getting in the weeds) - CMP has service grade Garands for 900. Not bagging the rifle, just saying to a Garand guy, that's the competition. Hard to tell what/what on yours with just the 1 pic but generally speaking it appears to be in great shape.
Originally Posted by CMP
Cosmetic condition will be good to very good. Rifle finish may vary, exhibiting normal wear and/or color variation among the metal parts. May have some visible pitting, frosting, or other minor cosmetic deformity on the metal parts. Stock sets may consist of any species of wood (or combination thereof); and could exhibit dents, dings, scratches, and/or structurally insignificant cracks. New production, commercial stock sets may be used, and will likely exhibit signs of wear and prior use.
They do offer an Expert grade which has a new stock and new Criterion barrel on either SA/H&R receiver for 1150.
They have an auction site - where special specimens go for sale.
My local Cabela's had several Garands that were the poster child for "Rack Grade" condition for 2600-3300 in the "gun vault" - but I don't get it. Perhaps they're ignorant of the CMP availability of the exact same rifle for 850. Makes it hard to price - IMO.
Look at the stampings (drawing #’s) on the parts, markings on the bolt, rear sight, barrel/ Op rod, and gas plug. If you don’t know how to remove the stock watch a video or two and remove it and look at the trigger group stampings. Most should be HRA marked unless it’s a very early HRA.
You can determine the date of manufacture (month/year) of the receiver by the serial # .
To determine if it’s actually correct for the date of manufacture you’re going to need a book LIKE THIS with drawing #s and the dates they were released and match them up with the drawing #’s on the parts in your rifle
I bought a really nice H&R a few years back for $950. I'd sure give that for another one. I can't place an accurate value on yours, but I'm confident it should at least start with a "1" and have three more digits.
I bought a really nice H&R a few years back for $950. I'd sure give that for another one. I can't place an accurate value on yours, but I'm confident it should at least start with a "1" and have three more digits.
If I tried to take it apart, I’d fuuck something up. I can put AC and plumbing in a 40 story building, but not good with small things. A man has got to know his limitations!!
If I tried to take it apart, I’d fuuck something up. I can put AC and plumbing in a 40 story building, but not good with small things. A man has got to know his limitations!!
If I tried to take it apart, I’d fuuck something up. I can put AC and plumbing in a 40 story building, but not good with small things. A man has got to know his limitations!!
Vast majority of guys don't care it it is all original. I went down that rabbit hole several years ago with a 3/43 Springfield Garand. Now all correct parts except the elevation knob. I doubt I would get my money out of it.
Vast majority of guys don't care it it is all original. I went down that rabbit hole several years ago with a 3/43 Springfield Garand. Now all correct parts except the elevation knob. I doubt I would get my money out of it.
If somebody put one together out of various parts they’ve acquired, even if they are all so called correct, I wouldn’t really call that original either.