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Anyone interested in making me an aluminum split bushing for my wheeler barrel vise?

Straight barrel shank, 1.050” diameter, kimber 84.

I am not a machinist, but have a few barrels I occasionally swap. My custom oak bushing and rosin works, but an aluminum bushing with a single wrap of heavy paper or bronze stock would be nice.

My barrel vise opening is ~3.5” square and ~2” deep.

Thoughts? Cost?

Is this the vise you are working with?
https://www.wheelertools.com/gunsmi...-with-3-oak-bushings/465185.html#start=1

You want full size blocks 3.5x3.5x2” or could you use thin shells in one of your wood blocks? It says it comes with one blank that you can custom drill and if you drilled that to one and a half inch diameter, then you could make any size bushing shelves that you need on lathe. That’s how I made my custom vise. I make the shell from inch and a half aluminum rod. That’s great if you have access to a lathe or you can buy/find commercial bushings to play with. I can make either or both for you but want to understand the scope before trying to guesstimate a cost.

Yes, that is the vise I have. I custom drilled a 1” hole, flapper sanded it so the barrel shank fits snuggly, split it on a table saw, and use rosin. It’s crude, but it works (I don’t torque my barrels very tight).

I could use aluminum shells in another wooded block if the shells are easier to make.

I will look at what I have for material on hand and try to get back to you in a day or two. I can definitely make the blocks and shells, just a matter of picking material and scheme. I'd definitely suggest a set of universal blocks that accept half-shells for each specific diameter. Select an OD for the shells a bit bigger than the largest diameter barrel you plan to work on.

I like making my blocks out of phenolic. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/phenolic/system-of-measurement~inch/economical-garolite-ce-sheets-and-bars/ I've busted the oak blocks and don't like aluminum. Phenolic holds up good and won't leave a residue on the barrel the way aluminum sometimes will.

Interesting - had not thought about phenolic.

Delrin did cross my mind, but I wasn't sure if it would work...didn't want to risk scuffing up a barrel.

Regardless, I am liking the idea of half shells in a universal block.

Delrin could likely work too. Powdered rosin works good for making the blocks grip. Some of the barrels on Springfields and Mausers are so tight they are almost too tight. If I am going to take one off and not need to save the barrel I turn a groove up close to the receiver to make it come loose easier. You can ruin an action by putting too much pressure on things by over tightening or trying to get one off that's too tight.

Would not do delren due to poor friction coefficient characteristics & the softness of the material. I am of the opinion Aluminum may be near ideal in terms of friction coefficient characteristics. Phenolic may have merit though I see this as a distant 2nd consideration due to cost & just being a less than desirable material to machine.

Expect someone here will be able to help. If not give me a PM & I expect I could get you what you are wanting.

Hey Jim, what type of phenolic are you using? I have only used the canvas type for projects and love it !

This stuff right here.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/phenolic/color~green/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/

The green machines very well and seems to hold up better than the canvas type and it's finer grained. One of my customers that manufactures heating elements used to use the canvas strand type on everything then they switched to the green and now it's all they use. That's how I found out about it.

"Delrin could likely work too. Powdered rosin works good for making the blocks grip. Some of the barrels on Springfields and Mausers are so tight they are almost too tight. If I am going to take one off and not need to save the barrel I turn a groove up close to the receiver to make it come loose easier. You can ruin an action by putting too much pressure on things by over tightening or trying to get one off that's too tight."

How does this crap continue?

BTDT...

I actually had one M70 that was so tight I also had to turn a groove next to the receiver face to finally allow it to come loose.. It was going to be rebarreled anyway so I didn't care about the take-off.. But having a M70 barrel on that tight was a first for me.. I can't recall, but it might have been a WSM barrel - which would, I guess, make some sense..

One wrap of paper from a scratch pad will prevent blocks whatever the material from marring the bluing. The paper also helps with providing friction so the barrel will not slip in the blocks. In four years in the Browning Gunsmithing Shop I changed hundreds of barrels using this method and never marred the blue.

Interested in clarification, Paper from what kind of scratch pad? Sorry, I am not putting this together.

I use the carboard centers from rolls of paper towels. They never slip or mar the finish.

Good shootin' -Al