Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Stock refinishing?

Hi all,
Any recommendations on a product set that I can use to strip my wife’s walnut BDL stock and refinish it? The wood isn’t bad but tje clear coat is blistered and fish eyed.
Never done it before but as she has decided to actually hunt Africa with me next year I should pretty up her .280 for her.

Thanks

Lots of finish/paint removers that work. What I don't like about it is that it's put it on, remove the sludgy melted finish that does come off, repeat until all off. Messy and very hard to keep that mix from getting down into the bare wood.

If you're up to it, look into what I would call flat blade paint or finish removal. It's an old time way that they used to strip piano finishes off to re-do them. Basically using a sharp square edged tool that you just tilt at an angle to scrape the finish off.

I did a M70 that way and liked the outcome. Little tedious but not that difficult. Once I had all the finish off to the bare wood, I did the whole wet sanding process to fill in the open pore's and applied several coats of finish. I did tape off the stock and remove the finish in the checkering areas with finish remover.

Used to do it in shop class back in high school days.

If you can still find Epoxy and Varnish remover at Home Depot I found it will take off just about anything if you follow directions carefully. Hang the stock in the garage over a bunch of laid out newspapers as it will get messy. Apply, let it set the recommended time, scrape off. Repeat if necessary. You may have some small areas that are difficult- I use a cabinet scraper for those areas and sand smooth when done.

I really like fine sandpaper. Do use sanding blocks, though to sustain flats and edges. No infusion of one's wood with whatever chemicals.

Jasco - follow directions and wear gloves. You want the most complete removal of non-wood substance to minimize sanding to remove uneven staining, etc. Put it on checkering as well and use toothbrush to clean out afterwards.

I much prefer to scrape the Rem gloss finish off than melt it off with a chemical stripper. Just seems a better means to a better end for me.

Yep, how I like to do it. Everyone has their ways and whatever works, but I like scraping it off. Somewhat tedious but thorough.

I’ve had great luck with CitriStrip. It removed the thick “plastic-like” finish on a Browning A-Bolt and it’s worked well for me for at least a half dozen projects in the past 20 years. It’s non-toxic and won’t melt your neurons if you get a snoot full.

Spray on stripper, the nasty kind. melts through some plastic gloves. not friendly with skin. Stiff plastic brush for checkered areas. Let sit for 10 minutes then hose off with pressure nozzle. May have to repeat for stubborn poly finnishes. Let dry then sand.

Another vote for Citristrip. Just follow the directions. Works well. Leave the sanding blocks and sandpaper alone except for final sanding with very fine paper prior to finishing.
Good Luck,
Rick

Citristrip works ok just takes awhile, acetone works better, but for peel it off in a hurry, on a glossy Remington 700 a can of brake clean or carb cleaner accidentally sprayed on works best

It's been years but this was my method.

I like this approach and have used it with good results.

Those little, like 1" wide, replaceable blade paint scrapers work great, just keep the blades sharp and learn how to drag em back towards you. Works good on the large areas. The tedious part is close to checkering, and the grip wrist area. Have deployed a standard pocket knife pushed with my thumbs for that work. I've made convex scrapers for the lower part under the cheek rest out of 1/2" flat wood chisels ground to shape and bent 90 degrees with a blue wrench. I usually like to dress up that concave area anyway with a molding line so I don't worry too much how neat I am getting the poly off there.

The shiny finish on my 788 was all nicked up.
I removed the stock and sprayed it with carburetor cleaner, which caused the finish to lift and bubble. I scraped it off with a knife blade and lightly sanded the maple, and rubbed it in with linseed oil.
Turned out really nice too. I think I was out about $10 and a few hours time.
Reon

Thanks for all the feedback guys!!

I've done several of those, citristrip. Then I run the stocks through a hot dishwater with no soap. Doesn't affect the checkering, and will pull out a lot of scratches and dings. Then I hit with formsby tung oil until I get it where I like it and finish with a couple of coats of minwax clear satin wipe on poly.

Similar for me:
Step 1 Citristrip
Step 2 Acetone
Step 3 sand paper.


For dings, instead of dishwasher, I use a damp cloth and hot iron.

Miles Gilbert refinishing kit. Really nice satin finish.

stock refinishing kit