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Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope? If so what’s the most one could remove? Any accuracy issues in doing this? I am using very tall rings already.
Thanks
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Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope? If so what’s the most one could remove? Any accuracy issues in doing this? I am using very tall rings already.
Thanks How long is your shank? I tend to think of the shank as the portion shown in the first photo that is in the white. I recently repurposed this barrel and transformed it from this: to this:
Last edited by z1r; 02/20/24.
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I know there are formulas in better gunsmithing books, Modern Gunsmithing by Howe, for one, but my guidelines are based on a takeoff 99 Savage featherweight .308 barrel out in the shop....and doing a little math from that as a minimum baseline. You probably don't mean shank? Maybe chamber area?
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Is there anything wrong with “turning down” the shank portion of a rifle barrel to allow clearance for a large objective scope? If so what’s the most one could remove? Any accuracy issues in doing this? I am using very tall rings already.
Thanks I've done it at times.. Some barrel-makers have a shank of 2.5". I've cut 'em down to 2.0" at times, depending on the chambering.. Most custom 'smiths order barrels with a specific shank diameter right from the maker.. When I do a M70 I order the shank to be at 1.150" to match the manufacturer, unless the chambering requires a bit bigger diameter..
Last edited by Redneck; 02/20/24.
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69 Pro-Constitution. LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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The English would call that the "knoxform", no?
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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I don't think so ... I think it's just a flat for the wrench? And maybe spelled Nock's form.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be. I try to keep the taper just ahead of where the throat is since that's the high pressure / flame spot For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method. I am usually buying straight blanks to custom machine . Rich
You know you might be facing your doom if all you get is a click when you are expecting a BOOM !
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FWT shank is still 1.150 diameter but the length is only about 3/16" - for the majority of non-magnum chamberings.. It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be. Absolutely.. For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method. I can see why... But I'm guessing you mean distance 'from the tenon end,' and not from the receiver face, right?
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Taller scope rings won't work ?
Hal
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FWT shank is still 1.150 diameter but the length is only about 3/16" - for the majority of non-magnum chamberings.. It depends on the Cartridge and pressures as to how long the shank needs to be. Absolutely.. For Example .223 I will start the taper at 1.75 ", for .308 starts at 2.125 " , .300 Mag at 3 ". I have not had one blow up yet using that method. I can see why... But I'm guessing you mean distance 'from the tenon end,' and not from the receiver face, right? Yes , from the face of the Tenon or breech face of the barrel. Rich
You know you might be facing your doom if all you get is a click when you are expecting a BOOM !
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Thanks for the clarify..
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