Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger #1 screws (quarter rib)

Was gonna put an EGW base on my new to me .22K Hornet.
2 screws out, the other 2 not budging.

Grrrrrr.

Have new screws from Midway so can replace if these don't survive LOL

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Update on dad's old rig:

The .22-250 has a new quarter rib and the new screws were too long.
Thankfully the original screws were easy to remove, undamaged, and reused just fine.

FWIW the old quarter ribs used 4 screws and 2 dowels.
New ribs just use 4 screws.
The dowels were removed on my dads rig (for new rib). Now I'm wondering what to plug the holes with.
Either fill em w black crayon wax or get some black plastic rod for plugs?

Can't see em, but want filled anyway.


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BTW

IMHO Ruger shoulda used Torx screws instead of Allen.

.
Why this endeavor ?
What's wrong with the Ruger rib ?

EGW is a pic rail.
Multiple slots and overhangs receiver.

Was going to use on the .22-250.
Damaged orig rib in removal.
Said screw it and got another quarter rib for that one (new style).

Was going to use the EGW on the Hornet (its a heavy rig LOL, so figured put a new higher mag scope on it).
New scope....want to use non Ruger rings.

Faced a similar problem when I used a No. 1 barrel on a Hawkeye action, with no rib. I turned some steel plugs that friction fit in the dowel holes. Filing the new plugs flush with the barrel sacrificed a bit of the bluing. I have not refinished it properly yet but cold blue is pretty close. If you’re installing a new rib it’ll cover the plugs.

Just an option.

Those hard to remove Ruger screws may be seal using red Loctite or something similar. I apply heat using an old plumber's soldering iron. Get it hot and apply the point to the screw and hold for a while. It may take a minute of three.
PJ

May or may not be pertinent but Ruger places their scope mounting scallops adjacent to one or more of the rib mounting screws. If you screw the scope mount down tight - not even farmer tight, just really good and tight - it can compress the rib and mechanically lock the screw in place so that no amount of penetrating oil, heat, cussing or any combination of those will loosen it.

You know, that unhardened steel screw with a tiny, inadequate 3/32" hex drive. Yeah, that one.


Those reading this will have already surmised how I know this...

The screws are held I place with thread locker. Heat works OTW screw extraction one way or another is on the menu. Don’t ask me how I know.

Yup, No. 1 rib screws can be difficult. Liquid Wrench or Kroil, gentle heat.....I like the soldering gun but a large nail heated with a torch would probably work as well. Drilling a hole for an easy out isn't easy if the break is inside the barrel where you cannot grab the stub with vise grips. Ask me how I know.

Ruger sent me replacement screws ( I only needed one) gratis IIRC.

I pulled the rib off my 1A to relieve a couple thousands of the back of the rib where it seemed to contact the receiver after a few shots.

I used the EGW rails on a #1 project and had to have a local gunsmith mill off some material from the rail so that I could use low rings. If I have another #1 rebarreled, I will have a EGW rail shortened and modified for a cleaner look