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Joined: Aug 2013
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Iclimb Offline OP
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Sorry not sure what to name the thread…

So I bought a new model 70 Alaskan in 375hh as I much prefer the light weight barrel over the African. The rifle came with a really nice stock, exceptional for a std offering in fact. It has the std single screw type stud that is so common…I am planning on doing some work to the rifle, cutting 3” off the barrel, install a barrel band front swivel and a banded front sight and then cerakote the metal a nice graphite black.

I am looking for a nice option for plugging the front swivel hole in the stock. Typically I’ve just used a cap head screw and installed it. That is more of a “place holder” though, so I am looking for something a bit nicer cosmetically speaking.

I’ve thought of doing a silver circle, something like you might see on a fine maker rifle, with initials engraved. This risks the finish on the stock and I really don’t want to refinish the thing…

Second option I’ve thought is using a long set screw, threaded accordingly and installing from the inside of the stock and down through…I would shape the bottom of the set screw to match the contour of the stock. Then have it cerakoted with the rest if the metal then installed and put some epoxy on top of the screw inside the inlet.


—does anyone have a decent looking way to deal with this?
—second question is the same, but for a supergrade type swivel??
—-I’ve wondered if anyone has milled a steel blank that matches the supergrade swivels footprint but is solid steel (in place of the swivel pocket)…this would be filed to fit the stock and finsihed with the metal on the rifle
-mind you im just a hack in his garage, so don’t laugh at my methods 🤣🤣

Thanks boys!


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GB1

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I've fitted a few sets of Talley's that turned out nice. Also check New England Custom Guns...they have some with long screws.


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My brother had a ruger alaskan which had a barrel band, but the hogue stock was obviously made for a front stud which ruger plugged with a buttonhead capscrew.

It bothered me so I machined a blank stainless flat head screw, and engraved the “ruger bird” on the head. In my opinion, it was a big improvement over the factory. I had cut a small slot in the threaded end of my blank and used a small screwdriver from inside the barrel channel to tighten/index the engraving.

Hopefully you can understand my rambling, I realize a picture would have been better but the rifle is long gone.

Last edited by bigJ; 03/01/24.
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I have many times taken the front stud out. Chucked it in a drill and used the drill against a belt sander to cut it down past the swivel hole and round it off, then hit it on the buffer a bit to take the sanding marks off and reblued. Use a screw slot file to split the shank a little ways. Then do like bigJ says and stick a skinny screwdriver through the nut in the forend from the top and use it to snug it down.

You still have a button on the underside of the forearm but it looks finished and won’t snag on your hand or anything.

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You could cut a diamond from wood(ebony) or metal and inlet it to fit. I made this Bullseye from Ivory and Coral. I dont have a picture of it filed flush. I didn’t hit the finish.
Lots of things can be done to look nice.
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Could find a piece of probably walnut wood and cut it up and blend it with, probably Tru Oil. Have filled in spots on stocks before doing this and if matched properly will blend.

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PM me your mailing address and I'll send you some differents screws, etc. When I send finished stocks to clients, I include 10-32 "allen-head" round button head screws, flat heads, and headless lock studs they can choose from to screw into the slingswivel stud ports - this so they can remove the sling swivel studs when shooting on rests & bags. Of course they don't really have to put anything in the ports.


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