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Any brass in the engine?


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I used to add a quart of Rislone every 2 or 3 oil changes


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Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
It probably won't hurt it, but I'd fill it with diesel and let soak for a good bit, then drain it. Let it drip for an hour or more. Then fill it with the right stuff.
This is what I was thinking.

If you don't want to use diesel put a qt of transmission fluid in there, let it sit a bit then drain.

Fill with proper oil, let idle until up to temp then drain and start fresh.

Last edited by 10gaugemag; 03/17/24.

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Unless it is a modern engine that take 0W-16... You should be fine with a drain and refill.

Edit: My bad didn't read boat.

Last edited by CashisKing; 03/17/24.

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Originally Posted by Hastings
Originally Posted by gunzo
Small engine have small delicate moving parts that may not like the added stress of thick oil. I'd just want to be sure I got a high percentage of it out of there before running.

A new 20 HP Merc is about $3600 BTW.
No kidding, if a 20HP tiller handle long shaft Mercury can be had for that I will buy one. My net boat has been without a motor for over a year. It is 18 feet long and about 6 feet wide at the gunwales. Don't need to go fast, 10 or 15 MPH is fine

www.onlineoutboards.com

Last edited by gunzo; 03/17/24.
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Why not call a Mercury dealer ?

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Originally Posted by Hastings
Originally Posted by gunzo
Small engine have small delicate moving parts that may not like the added stress of thick oil. I'd just want to be sure I got a high percentage of it out of there before running.

A new 20 HP Merc is about $3600 BTW.
No kidding, if a 20HP tiller handle long shaft Mercury can be had for that I will buy one. My net boat has been without a motor for over a year. It is 18 feet long and about 6 feet wide at the gunwales. Don't need to go fast, 10 or 15 MPH is fine
Check these guys. Best prices I could find. Be careful, two or three years ago there was an almost identical scam website which demanded payment via cash app.

https://www.cumberlandwatersports.com/

Small Mercury engines are built in Japan by Tohatsu. Engines by either name are identical except for decals and price. I purchased the EFI, electric start, power tilt, 20 hp Tohatsu from them two years ago and was pleased with everything about the transaction.

Tohatsu 2024 Tohatsu 20 HP MFS20EEFL
20hp Horsepower
106.0 lb Weight
20" (Long) Shaft Length
$3,330.00

Mercury 2024 Mercury 20 HP EFI 20MLH
20hp Horsepower
107.0 lb Weight
20" (Long) Shaft Length
$3,520.00


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Quote
Small Mercury engines are built in Japan by Tohatsu.
Mercury owns Tohatsu. Also, Nissan motors are just rebranded Tohatsu's. All parts are said to be interchangeable. I don't know if Merc, Tohatsu, and Nissan are all the same. I read that Honda also has some kind of arrangement with Tohatsu but I don't know if Hondas are made by them.


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It is the other way round with Honda/Tohatsu.

Honda started building 60hp - 250hp for Tohatsu circa 2014.

https://www.boatingmag.com/boats/honda-to-private-label-large-outboards-tohatsu/


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We bought a Merc, I don't know of a Tohmatsu dealer within a hundred miles of where we fish


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Originally Posted by Orion2000
Way back in the day, had a big block Plymouth that "used a little oil". Solution to slow the oil consumption was to put in 4 qts of straight 50W racing oil. Then top off with 90W gear grease. Cranked slow in cold weather. Otherwise zero ill effects.

Old Hardleys leaked so bad we always ran straight 50 weight in them .


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At which point did you realize you added gear oil instead of engine oil? Was it before or after it took 15 minutes for the bottle to drain?

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Drain it. Plug it pour one quart of the correct oil in wait a few, drain it. Fill it, run it, forget about it. That gear oil won’t hurt a thing.

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Jim Conrad’s question is in reference as to the additive that’s in oil packages. Some have adverse effects on yellow iron if you will. Hope he corrects me if I’m wrong in the assumption.
80W/90 gear oil has the same viscosity as straight 50 weight motor oil.
All that said I would drain, refill, run. Change oil again at half interval and then back on schedule.

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I didn’t read the last couple of pages. I’d drain it. Throw some cheap 10-30wt and about 3/4 of a qt of diesel, let it idle to warm up good. Drain it, put your good oil and new filter in it and drive it.


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Originally Posted by TreeMutt
Not paying attention, I put 32oz of lower unit oil (80W-90) in my engine. (20hp Merc EFI outboard)

The motor capacity is 1.1 quart of engine oil....so I drained the gear lube out overnight. I also changed the filter beforehand but obviously didn't run the motor so it should be OK.

Any other precautions or is that enough?

MAGA!
Nope, just fill according to the factory specs. Most the time that's fill it from the bottom, until lube comes out of the top hole, then screw in the top one and quickly put the drain screw in. I never measure mine, but some newer motors might have different requirements from to old type motors.

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Originally Posted by reivertom
Originally Posted by TreeMutt
Not paying attention, I put 32oz of lower unit oil (80W-90) in my engine. (20hp Merc EFI outboard)

The motor capacity is 1.1 quart of engine oil....so I drained the gear lube out overnight. I also changed the filter beforehand but obviously didn't run the motor so it should be OK.

Any other precautions or is that enough?

MAGA!
Nope, just fill according to the factory specs. Most the time that's fill it from the bottom, until lube comes out of the top hole, then screw in the top one and quickly put the drain screw in. I never measure mine, but some newer motors might have different requirements from to old type motors.
That's for lower unit.

He is talking about engine oil.


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Originally Posted by stxhunter
drain it and fill it up with the right oil, a little gear oil won't hurt it.

This but when you add the seafoam I'd top off with the correct oil. Run it a few minutes, then drain it again - overnight if you are anxious.

Then refill with the correct oil and yer off to the races....

I run a number of motors ranging from 6hp 2 stroke to 250hp 4 stroke, so empathize....


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About a half a century ago a mechanic told me that 90w gear oil attacks brass. I don't know what the internal workings of a boat motor are like. Hence my Sea foam thought. Some solvent to get the gear oil out. Hope it works out for you OP.


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I quart of oil is cheap. Drain the heavy stuff, fill with one quart of oil, take out spark plug, spin it over several times, waiting a few minutes between each spin time to lessen stress on starter, drain, fill with new oil, put in spark plug, start, run until hot and drain again, change filter and add oil, run normal.

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