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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Originally Posted by mathman
You're hanging onto that partial full self contradiction.
If I put 8 ounces of beer in a six ounce mug, is it not partially full?

Or, are you a partially empty kind of guy?

The mug is partially filled. grin

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Originally Posted by Idaho_Shooter
Originally Posted by mathman
You're hanging onto that partial full self contradiction.
If I put 8 ounces of beer in a sixteen ounce mug, is it not partially full?

Or, are you a partially empty kind of guy?


No, the mug is too small…


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Originally Posted by sherm_61
Theres not a manual or die instruction that tells you how to set up dies properly anyway except 1 set of dies and that's Whiddens because they come with a comparator.
The old screw it down untill it touches the shell holder and back it off a 1/4 turn was probably when dies were invented and still are the same so I guess nothing changes in time.
If I set my dies up like that some brass wouldn't let the bolt close or have resistance or have case separations, its exactly why belted cases got a bad rap from case separation setting the dies up by die instructions instead of ignoring the belt and instructions and just bumping them like a non belted case.
Just save yourself some headache and FL size bumping the shoulder .002-.003 everytime and call it good.

Forsters sort of hints at it:

Quote
TIP
It is preferable to adjust headspace without removing the Die
from the press, using the following technique:
1. Slightly loosen the adjustment screw on the Lock Ring.
2. Hold the Lock Ring in place while turning the Die to the
required depth.
3. Tighten the Lock Ring, and continue sizing cases.


https://www.forsterproducts.com/pdf/instructions/full_length_sizing_die_instructions.pdf


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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by alpinecrick
Originally Posted by mathman
I should add that I rarely use the expander ball with any of them.

MM, are then using a LCD on the necks?


No, those dies size the necks. I typically use a Lyman M-die or mandrel die. Or no expansion at all for certain brass thicknesses in the right dies.

I do the same with some of the bushing dies, no need to expand.


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Originally Posted by mathman
No, those dies size the necks. I typically use a Lyman M-die or mandrel die. Or no expansion at all for certain brass thicknesses in the right dies.

That’s what I meant. We understand the FL die sans the expander assembly sizes brass including the neck. I was wondering how, when needed, if you used the LCD mandrel die to size the necks up to get your desired neck tension.

Why not use a body die, then use a LCD or the Lyman M-die? Or are you just using the FL dies because that’s what youhave on hand?

I don’t have a M-die so I don’t really know how they work.


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Having said that, MAGA.
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I also use collet dies, bushing dies, body dies.

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Originally Posted by alpinecrick
I don’t have a M-die so I don’t really know how they work.


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I mostly use A and B settings.

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A set of Redding competition shell holders is a good investment. Typically I find 4 things cause hard chambering. Not enough sizing, or not sizing from just neck sizing, not trimming brass, bullet OAL too long and is in the lands and lastly case bases that are not sized enough as many dies don't size down the case far enough. This can benefit from a trip through a 45 sizing die for .473 case head rounds.

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Maybe we need to come up with a new naming convention. "Partial full" and "fully full" both signal that the train has left the tracks. grin

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lol……..


Casey

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Having said that, MAGA.
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Or take the Cortina approach and call it "Controlled Full-Length Sizing".



Quote
I told her she needed to think about Full-length sizing with 0.002″ shoulder bump, or Controlled Full-length Sizing like I call it. I told her not to worry about losing accuracy. I told her that I full-length size all my rounds and asked if she noticed how smooth my bolt was and noticed my score. She said yes, they were both great!

Controlled Full-length Sizing Does NOT Harm Accuracy
I have found that Controlled Full-length Sizing does NOT hurt accuracy or shorten brass life. I find that I can focus much more on the conditions when I don’t have to think about chambering a round nor extracting it. It has become second nature. After firing, I keep my head welded to the stock, I open the bolt by placing my thumb on top of stock and rotating hand upwards. I reach in and retrieve spent case, place it back in ammo box, and pick up another loaded round and put in chamber. I verify conditions and when ready, I push the bolt in and close it with my index and middle finger.

https://bulletin.accurateshooter.co...s-better-to-full-length-size-your-cases/


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