Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Drywall Repair Advice?

You will need to tape the joints and then do a wide taper. Use a thinner joint compound and a 12" blade to really push it out past the edges. Save yourself a lot of mess by using a damp sponge to clean up the high spots before final sanding with a 220 grit paper.
For patches I like to use 1/4" luan plywood behind the drywall. I overlap under the existing and patch by 3-4". That gives yoou plenty of room for screws and provides a solid foundation thatt helps prevent high and low spots.

I got lots of good advice in my flooring thread, so I'm back needing more home repair advice. I'm working on repairing a section of damaged drywall on my ceiling and I'm quickly finding out that I have a lot to learn. I cut the damaged section out and put in a patch. I attached it to the joists, along with using a furring strip on the section past the joist. However, I'm finding that it's slightly higher than the existing sheet rock in one corner, but then in the middle it's slightly lower. The section that's higher isn't a big issue as I will mud over it and try to get it level. It's the part that's proud that I'm unsure how to tackle. I've read numerous sites saying to feather it out more, but I'm just not understanding how that's going to hide a bump in it. I started sanding trying to get it closer and you can see it's starting to go through the paper. At this point I stopped and decided I needed to do more research. What's the best way to tackle this from here? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I have very little drywall experience and what I've done in the past hasn't always looked great, but I'm trying to learn.

Popcorn texture hides a lot......grin

You do realize that you have to tape all joints, don't you ?
Stop playing with it, tape it and float it out (feather).

Typical rookie taping mistakes :
Not thinning out joint compound prior to starting work (mixing in water with drill motor and mixing blade)
Applying too much mud (joint compound) and creating a nightmare sanding job.
Not wiping tape flush and not getting mud under tape.
Not letting mud completely dry before applying second coat.

A sanding pole is very helpful when sanding overhead.

Rent a hopper type spray rig to texture your patches to match existing.
Practice on a scrap piece of board or cardboard to get your settings right.

One thing I will add is it is better to use a drywall sealer prior to texture. Texture dries differently over mud vs drywall. If you don’t seal prior to texture, the joints will be easier to detect.

Mud and tape will not stick to brown paper

Wrong, it's done all the time and never failed. And unless I'm doing a lot of finishing, I use a setting type compound, like Durabond or Set and only mix what I need, and Durabond doesn't shrink like "green top" mud.

Wrong, it's done all the time and never failed. And unless I'm doing a lot of finishing, I use a setting type compound, like Durabond or Set and only mix what I need, and Durabond doesn't shrink like "green top" mud.

First, you exposed the brown paper that is underneath the white paper. Mud and tape will not stick to brown paper, it now has to be sealed with something like Gardz, Shellac, or Bin. Then it can be taped and muddled.

All three of those joints are considered “Butt” joints. Each one will require a minimum of four coats, starting with,

1) apply “All Purpose” compound ( Green Lid) and paper tape ( not mesh) with a 6 inch knife, let dry.

2) apply Lightweight Compound ( Blue Lid) with 10” knife , double wide making each joint roughly 18 inches wide , it’s called “a double ten”. Let dry

3) repeat the process with a 12 inch knife, it’s called a double 12.

4) repeat the process with a Triple 12 , one down the center and one on each side.

Yes, each joint needs to be that wide.

To Direct Drive. I’ve been in construction over 45 years. Age 64 now. I learned this info from a few top notch drywall guys. Being skeptical , I never tried it, but when you spray with a hopper prior to knockdown, you will notice the texture on the mud joints will dry quicker. When you knockdown , the splatter will be different in the field . I did a 1800 sq ft addition a few years ago and explained it to the home owner that should seal first and he said no. I sealed after texture with 2 coats of top paint and you could see the joints slightly. Owners thought it was a great job, but I was not satisfied. I say try it once and see for yourself. If you doubt my ability , please pm me with a number and I will show you some of my work. With all respect, Alan Cranfill

To Direct Drive. I’ve been in construction over 45 years. Age 64 now. I learned this info from a few top notch drywall guys. Being skeptical , I never tried it, but when you spray with a hopper prior to knockdown, you will notice the texture on the mud joints will dry quicker. When you knockdown , the splatter will be different in the field . I did a 1800 sq ft addition a few years ago and explained it to the home owner that should seal first and he said no. I sealed after texture with 2 coats of top paint and you could see the joints slightly. Owners thought it was a great job, but I was not satisfied. I say try it once and see for yourself. If you doubt my ability , please pm me with a number and I will show you some of my work. With all respect, Alan Cranfill

I don’t see any texture on the existing ceiling. Why all the chatter about texture?

How difficult is texture to repaint? All I've ever seen was crumbly when you tried to paint it. In other words, texture trying to fall off when you try to roll it.