Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Apparently was loading drunk

So, I bought a nice Forster sizing die for my 6cm. But, apparently I bought a 6.5 cm die. I ran about 20 pieces through it before I realized. I tried resizing with the 6mm die. But it isn't working. Maybe not adjusting it right. Is this brass junk? It's new Lapua.....

Lapua is very strong brass, and can be more difficult to size down or up than a lot of other brass. A 25 cal neck die is what I would try as an intermediate step if you have one.

Somebody might have a better idea though.

Have you tried a bit more Imperial Wax lube on the brass, and even swabbing a very thin layer inside the die. Hopefully you cleaned the die of manufacturing oil/preservative before using it.

On new brass, all your die should have sized is the neck. Yes, it stretched the 6mm to 6.5, but that should be easily sized back down to 6mm. Maybe try annealing the necks, so they squeeze back down easier. Good thing you only did that to 20 pcs. I wouldn't sweat it, and I'm sure a good die will size it back down no problem. I'd also probably mark those, so you know you had that issue with them, just to keep an eye on them. Maybe segregate them a bit, from the other pcs.

Everyone fouls up sooner or later, I’ve had my share of them

Cant see what good that would do, Lapua cases come annealed and they have not been fired

They've not been fired, but they've been stretched....as in a degree of work hardened. Annealing won't hurt a thing.

I lube the brass and the inside of the necks...

for this type of service, I use a Redding Body die, or a case with a larger bore with the decapping rod removed.

Then I neck size with a Hornady caliber Universal Neck sizer....

So I'm not experiencing the problems....

Kinda figured out this route over time, after originally dealing with such problems.

I also agree with the above route of annealing the necks first....soften them up a hair... but usually only do that if I was still having issues.. the Hornady neck sizer usually takes care of that for me, by lubing the inside of the neck first, by spraying it on a Q Tip and then running it inside the neck...

I guess boatanchor doesn't understand. The OP seems to be having issues getting the necks sized back down. It doesn't matter if it's been "fired". It's been worked more than it should have been, by running the 6.5 expander through the neck. That causes unnecessary "work hardening". This is the reason I suggest a little annealing. I shouldn't have to write that out, as an explanation: As, most guys get it. Maybe? Maybe not?

I figured out the problem. I was using a Hornady die that had a messed up stem, so I contacted them for warranty and they said they would send me a new stem and expander.

In the meantime I ordered the Forster die....my fault I apparently ordered the 6.5 instead of the 6 as I said.

I received the new stem from Hornady which I was using last evening to try to get my brass back in shape. It didn't make sense that I was running the brass into the die with the die touching the shell holder. But the neck wasn't resized.

Turns out the stupid expander that Hornady sent is 6.5 too. I guess I have 6.5itus or something. Can't believe I didn't figure it out right away. I'm not detail oriented....

Thanks for all the help. When I finally get my schidt together, I will anneal and give it another go. I guess I can run them through without the expander.....

Dang, sounds like Hornady was drunk too, to send you the wrong expander. If it were me, I probably would have gotten real chit faced, chucked that sucker in a drill, and grabbed a file and then some sandpaper!!!! That's what happens when I get real drunk and mad. I generally try not to load when I'm drunk, but you know how that goes.. ha ha..

Maybe.

Maybe not.

You're right that they've been over expanded, and likely way more than having been fired. Not to mention, once sized back down the brass will have been moved in that procedure way more that being normally sized. They're going to likely need annealing anyway at that point. When I make 243s out of 308s I anneal in all 4 steps. Smooth as butter each step and the brass stays where I put it.

And, for redundancy, all brass is annealed to some factory spec before it goes in the box. Lapua isn't the only one, they're just one of the few that doesn't process off the evidence. Moving brass molecules cold in any way begins the work hardening, and it compounds until it fractures, or is annealed.

Suggesting the OP anneal these cases only makes sense, as softer brass will form easier. It's only 20 pcs for Christ's sake, light a candle if you have to.

Yep. Ran one through without the stem. Sized right down. I'm a comedy of errors. Feel free to laugh at my expense....ugh!

I always chock stuff like that up to a visit from Uncle Murphy. Every time he visits something goes wrong.

😁

I'm thinking you and Feral dont understand, I have done this before with no problems. I have also had people tell me that tumbling your brass to clean it work hardens brass......bunch of schit !!!!!!

I dont disagree that annealing wont hurt a thing, what I'm saying is that it probably wont help either

The suggestion to anneal was given based on the situation as first presented by the OP....as in, sizing back down wasn't working. Tumbling brass or what it does to brass was never mentioned anywhere.
The conversation progessed beyond that and the problem was resolved. Nobody lied to you anchor of boats, when it was mentioned they'll probably need annealing anyway after being over expanded and over sized. I know what I would do and I tend to make my own luck. Your mileage will obviously vary, and to no one's surprise.

one good point that you bring up Feral, is how folks on the campfire love to argue about how something should work.
Like their way is better than someone else's way.

I've been here long enough, I'll listen to what someone has to say, but I know there are more than one way to do about anything in reloading ammo. If I've got a way that works for me, then I stay with that.

If someone has a way that works for them, then I recommend for them to stay with their way.

Doesn't mean either one is wrong. But if its your reload bench, do what works for you unless it doesn't work.

Over the years here and at the reload bench, I've learned multiple ways to solve many problems.

I usually use what is most comfortable.

I'll also admit to owning at least 2 sets of reloading dies, from different vendors in anything I shoot. Saw on line last week on one site that had 'suggested products' at the bottom of the page. It had a Lee Die set with 3 dies in it.. and the next item was a box of 20 bullets. The price listed for both was $35.95.

When you can buy a set of loading dies, for the same price a box of 20 rounds cost ya, the Reloading die set is the better place to spend your money on, getting a much better return on your 'investment'. A box of 20 bullets can have a life span of 20 minutes at the range. A die set can last your entire reloading life and have something to pass on or sell to someone else.

Just an observation I'm passing on to my fellow campfire brothers.

Addendum;

Its okay to load ammo while you're drunk.

Schtick's been doing it for decades, and he's still with us....

So a few mishaps is the reason he has no hair on his head, and he's sorta cross eyed, but it still doesn't mean ya have to be sober to reload.....

Schtick's been loading drunk and trippin for decades, and NO ONE is more experienced than he is...

just ask him if ya don't believe it...he'll tell ya straight, as long as you can understand his Alaskan TrailerPark Gibberish.

hint......Film at 11!