Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles I need Help!(suppressor/gas issue...)

Bro, I'm setting this up for a sub 100 yard barnyard coon pistol.

I have a 223 in the pickup at all times as well!

Yep, and you'll have about a 5" high midrange trajectory with 100 yard zero - enough to miss a raccoon at 50 yards and listen to the bullet ricochet off through the saddle shed.

That's not a bad idea, I might try it when I go to clean the gun.

Truth be known I haven't even looked at the trajectory chart for the subsonic 300BLK.

Might not hurt to do that!

I don't really bother with the subsonic centerfires.

I can get the same quietness out of my .22lr M&P22 shooting suppressed if needed, or a .357 cal integrally suppressed airgun, although I don't mess with airguns much anymore either...

For hogs and stuff I use full power .308's out of an AR 10 that has sound mitigation too. It works for coons on a slow night.

That .308 leaves a nice spray pattern!



Or the .22lr when you don't want to shoot 3 miles... (I love that little M&P22!)

Yeah, the 22 hits as hard as a 240 grain subsonic... solid advice there.. and if you can't deal with trajectory of subs in a 300/221 then you have issues. We kill out to 200 really easy with ours and 198 subs....

Suppressors on direct impingement AR's are insanely dirty. I've heard a piston style is better, but I would think all you're doing is changing where the crud ends up. Seems to me it would foul a piston gun pretty quickly too.

An adjustable gas block on an AR is almost mandatory. You'd also be surprised how much dialing the gas back will cut down on recoil. I have the factory adjustable gas block on my POF Revolution .308, but I've been looking at the ones made by Rifle Speed. No tools required for adjustment and they have index numbers, so you can return it to a particular setting for a specific ammo or sub/super/suppressed use.


RifleSpeed gas block

That's where I'm at too, especially for varmints. Just wasn't seeing that the subsonic heavies were worth the downsides (increased ricochets, increased cost, etc.) over the utility of a rimfire. I had a 17 HMR upper for a while and that was a superb suppressed varmint rig from a terminal performance perspective, but I wasn't quite happy with the upper itself. So a 22 LR it is when going for ultimate quiet and chasing basic raccoon sized varmints.

That all being said these newer expanding subsonic bullets for the Blackout, 7.62x39, and others might make for a better mouse trap. I've used the 190 SUB-X on rabbits thus far at subsonic speeds and they certainly worked.

Lehigh has had expanding bullets for years now. Big holes in deer and pigs. Expanded bullets are over an inch wide....

I’m well aware. The Lehighs are also over a buck a bullet.

led to water....the rest I cannot help with if its a problem.

We’re talking about blasting raccoons here, dollar a piece bullets or 2-3 dollar per round ammo is retarded for such pursuits.

I'm not a sub or 300 BO expert, but those pics of the unburned powder are worse than I've ever seen & are a different matter than just dirt.

Do you get ANY of that unsurpassed.

We built a BO for my son & basically had no issues even close to yours.

MM

Not all gas blocks are the same.
Superlative arms makes some GBs that vent out the front.

Good product from my experience.

Piston driven helps, especially with a can, a lot less gas in the upper, and cleaner.

Personally I lile a piston system, but thats not how they were designed. There are some negatives, but I think the positives outweigh the negatives.

I have a 8" 300 BO in a piston driven, functions reliably. I had some issues getting it dialed in, I found it nearly impossible to setup and function with both 150G and subsonic 200G plus.

Finally decided to be happy with 200G subs as that was more or less what I wanted to shoot.

You might try some different ammo as your pics of the upper look pretty dirty.

There's a saying that ARs schit where they eat, especially true with a can. LoL

All I know is I have a flow through can and it’s not even close to what your pic showed. I don’t think that’s normal for DI and even old school cans. Something is not right for sure.

Just cleaned my 300BLK after 200 rounds suppressed. Was dirty, but not a single grain of unburned powder.
I'd try different ammo. Something just doesn't seem right. Even if it doesn't cycle correctly, it should still burn all the powder.

The CGS suppressor is a high back pressure design, trapping lots of pressure that goes into the action when it opens, so it's going to be problematic on an AR.

It's very possible the high back pressure can combined with ammo that is not burning the powder is the issue. I have never seen that kind of fouling.

High back pressure cans are great at reducing the signature at the muzzle but have a down side in the AR as the action opens before the can "blows down".

Like most things there are tradeoffs. The best bolt gun suppressors are not the best AR suppressors.

Gentlemen, I have an update for you regarding the Dissent.

I got a hold of the right allen wrench, it's a 3/32" not the 5/64" that is listed on CMMG's gas block info page. I also ordered some different ammo and that showed up earlier this week.

So I get the allen wrench and screw the adjustment screw all the way in and record the number of clicks, 18-19. I then back it out 10 clicks and fire a round. Bolt doesn't move at all. I then back out 10 more. Gun goes bang and cycles the next round and ejects the empty about 3 o'clock. I inspect the receiver area for dirtiness and there is none. I then shoot a couple more and zero issues, spent brass is still landing at 3 o'clock so I turn the screw out another click. We are now out around 2-3 clicks from factory setting.

Should note that I am shooting Winchester Super Suppressed 200 grain. I then load up 10 rounds and zero issues and no sign at all of powder flakes. Load up another 20, no issues, repeat, no issues and no sign of powder residue. Sweet!

I then load up some of the Federal 220 grain that I shot the original time and here is the weird part, they cycled fine and showed no sign of dirtiness. I can't figure that out but I'll take it!


So what in the hell caused the gun to be so dirty initially but now it runs fine for 50-60 rounds and no sign of powder flakes?

Bullets can get pulled out of the case in semi autos with the power spilling into the action.

That amount of power would be consistant with a bullet pull and power dump.

One wants to be sure the bullet is not still in the barrel if there is powder in the action.

and this is the Burns we can all appreciate.

not the Rick and Johnny jack off show that's currently going on in a few threads tonight.