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Always read about the legendary penetrant . Over $25 for an 8 once can. I’ve tried most things but like liquid wrench and WD 40 for common things. What are you folks using ??

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Incredible news.

Waiting on pins and needles for the “what’s your favorite color” thread


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Smelly stuff but it works.

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My go-to big three
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I bought gallon of it years ago and working on the last oil can of it now. It works so I never tried anything else.I use it a lot on old antique farm machinery I refurbish


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Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Incredible news.

Waiting on pins and needles for the “what’s your favorite color” thread

[Linked Image]


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Originally Posted by 1234Phagg
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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Kroil sure works but I seem to dislike the smell a lot more than I used to.


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Deep Creep made by Sea Foam. This stuff works really well.

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I've been using Kroil for about 15 years. Be advised, it will discolor certain metals. Found that out when I soaked one of my .22lr suppressors that had a monocore that got stuck to the cylinder. The cylinder ended up with a nice, light purple hue. 😀


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50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
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Originally Posted by 12344mag
Originally Posted by rcamuglia
Incredible news.

Waiting on pins and needles for the “what’s your favorite color” thread

[Linked Image]

Bless you my son.


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It's mostly snake oil.....expensive snake oil.

But if you want it to work....go ahead and believe it works.



Kroil is like witching for water. You have to believe it's going to work....or it won't.


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Kroil is the worst.




If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
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But the Kroil smellls cool.


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I've been using it for 50+ years. It's cheaper to buy a gallon and use a hand pump spritz bottle from the local big box hardware store than to waste money on the aerosol cans. The company, which is based in Nashville Tennessee used to sell direct to their customers. I was buying straight from the factory- - - -at their walk-in sales counter. Now they insist on "dealer sales only". www.kanolabs.com

I'm about to mix up some acetone/ATF to see if it works like people claim- - - -both ingredients are on the shelf at my local Walmart store.


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Originally Posted by Valsdad
But the Kroil smellls cool.

It smells like cancer.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

^^This


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PB Blaster work’s wonders too.

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Been using Kroil for years, works for me

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It ranks very close to Duke's on the list of idols worshipped on the 'fire.


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In our manufacturing business we must remove broken bolts daily.

Have a box full broken bolts , We have quit saving them.

None of that stuff is good for CHIT.

I tried the legendary Kroil for a few years , until my guys refused to futz around with it.

We drill out the tough ones , carbide bits, left hand bits , etc. All top quality bits no Ace
Hard ware items. Heat helps. On hardened bolts heat to red , remove the hardening.

On occasion we must get the items removed by " Spark Depot" methods.

That crap is for amateurs , especially , those that know it all.

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"Big Bang Theory" - the lug nut episode.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

BINGO...

I use synthetic ATF...

Maybe... just maybe... it runs deeper.

Jury still out.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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We used Kroil for our primary penetrating oil in the oil field for the last 30 years. It definitely helps with rusty tough nut removal.

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Used Kroil in the mines 50 years ago. It worked great them and still works good today!


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I like something that doesn’t evaporate, ATF and used engine oil work pretty good.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
Kroil is the worst.


That video is worth watching.

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
It's mostly snake oil.....expensive snake oil.

But if you want it to work....go ahead and believe it works.



Kroil is like witching for water. You have to believe it's going to work....or it won't.

Funny you say that.. You seem like one of those old crazy eyed water witchers.


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Saw another test and Liquid Wrench penetrating oil finished at the top. Who knows? I had used and recommended kroil for yeas but.... never noticed it do anything something else couldn't.
I do know I won't be needing it much for large, over-torqued, rusted bolts but for everyday things and gun cleaning. I know nothing helped me get a stuck lug nut off the time I needed something to work most.

I can find LW products at the Ace hardware within walking distance so no brainer. It is way cheaper and doesn't smell as bad as Pbblaster or kroil. I use it like folks use kroil and have no complaints. I don't even keep it with my gun cleaning products like I did kroil.

If it isn't the absolute best I don' really care anymore. Products get repeatedly tested on the net, claims discounted and argued ad nauseum- favorite oils, tires, additives, rifle scopes..... Just pick one and use it. I actually think that ATF -acetone thing is a great way to go if you don't mind mixing and storing it.

Last edited by kenjs1; 04/20/24.

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I guess next thing you know he will be mixing up his own batch of"Ed's Red" . After that the sky is the limit!!


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Originally Posted by GaryLL1959
Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

^^This


It works even better at 75:25, it penetrates farther with more carrier.


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Don't breathe any more acetone fumes than you have to! RZ.


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I bought two cans put one on a shelf and used the other one. Close to a year and a half later grabbed the can on the shelf and it had all leaked out of that metal can.
I didn’t notice anything special about it so never bought anymore.
ATF, non detergent motor oil, hoppes and clp take care of it.

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Originally Posted by Valsdad
But the Kroil smellls cool.
G-96 smells even better


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I can’t even imagine how many cans I went through, working in a paper mill and then near 30 years in the oil & gas industry! Good stuff! memtb


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I have mixed 40% Acetone and 60% ATF which also evaporates and also works really well.
I used Kroil for years but am backing away from it just because it's so expensive these days.

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Originally Posted by 1beaver_shooter
I guess next thing you know he will be mixing up his own batch of"Ed's Red" . After that the sky is the limit!!

👍


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I've never tried it. Does it work on arthritis and crabs????


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I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

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We used to get it by 55 gallon barrels . It was good as a cutting oil on lathes and mills .


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Originally Posted by Alan_C
Always read about the legendary penetrant . Over $25 for an 8 once can. I’ve tried most things but like liquid wrench and WD 40 for common things. What are you folks using ??

I used Liquid Wrench for years. It worked pretty well. Then I tried Kroil and I gave the LW away. The stuff is amazing.

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Interesting reviews, I am looking forward to trying it around the lathe. The atf/ acetone is a must try also.

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Originally Posted by Alan_C
Always read about the legendary penetrant . Over $25 for an 8 once can. I’ve tried most things but like liquid wrench and WD 40 for common things. What are you folks using ??


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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

2nd this ^

I have also used this mix and have to say it works better than any off the shelf stuff I have tried.


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I don't buy it in the regular non pressurized can anymore. It kept seeping out around the bottom and making a mess.

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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.
YEP,,,, Easy to make a multi year supply too !!


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I use the liquid wrench in the garage and the kroil for cleaning bores. One aerosol can of kroil lasts 10 years for me.


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In the home brew, doesn’t the acetone evaporate after a while ??

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I use a Mason jar to store any penetrating oil- - - -even liquid Kroil. Airtight seal and no seams to leak!


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Originally Posted by local_dirt
I've been using Kroil for about 15 years. Be advised, it will discolor certain metals. Found that out when I soaked one of my .22lr suppressors that had a monocore that got stuck to the cylinder. The cylinder ended up with a nice, light purple hue. 😀


Watt'sa matter with purple?


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Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by local_dirt
I've been using Kroil for about 15 years. Be advised, it will discolor certain metals. Found that out when I soaked one of my .22lr suppressors that had a monocore that got stuck to the cylinder. The cylinder ended up with a nice, light purple hue. 😀


Watt'sa matter with purple?



Nuttin. Works fine. Gemtech GM-22. Very lightweight. Works like a Champ. Compliments Dead Air Masks nicely.


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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
I use a Mason jar to store any penetrating oil- - - -even liquid Kroil. Airtight seal and no seams to leak!
With years of storing cans that leak eventually , I pick up the old amber or green jars to store liquids . I’ve lost money through the years and its annoying when you go to use something to find it leaked all over the shelves. The dark glass helps protect from UV rays I’ve read. A cork for the top in case it expands.

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Originally Posted by Alan_C
In the home brew, doesn’t the acetone evaporate after a while ??

I use acetone by the gallon...

Last time I was at 1/4 gallon I added the ATF... resealed the can and marked it "KROIL"... It was good a month later... this summer will be 9 months... we will see.

If I have to add more acetone I will.


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Ed'sRed is good too, but it's getting hard to find good whale oil.


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There is no retreat but in submission and slavery!
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Great link! Thanks for posting this.


Originally Posted by Archerhunter

Quit giving in inch by inch then looking back to lament the mile behind ya and wonder how to preserve those few feet left in front of ya. They'll never stop until they're stopped. That's a fact.
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A fellow's got to toss on a stick once in a while to keep the Fire from going out.


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Originally Posted by Alan_C
In the home brew, doesn’t the acetone evaporate after a while ??


Yes, the Acetone is just a carrier, It carries the thinned out oil to where it needs to be after that it becomes unimportant and the oil does it's job.


Paul

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Kroil worked decent for most people's needs around the house or farm.

We used it on Turbine rebuilds in the power houses.
Works even better when you can add heat via a rosebud.

I still have several gallons of Kroil in my shop from my days of chasing turbine work around the country.

Anti seize also does a fantastic job of keeping bolts/nuts from getting galled up

Hope that you use up your aerosol can of Kroil before it loses it's charge. If not, poke a hole in it and pour it into a squirt bottle.


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Want to sell one of those gallons? Mine is getting a little low! I'd rather put a few bucks into another fire member's pocket than deal with Kano labs these days!


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Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?


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I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!

Last edited by TreeMutt; 04/21/24.

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?

I'm no expert on that, PB Blaster & Lucas penetrating oil works for me as long as it does will continue using them for a cheaper price.

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Originally Posted by TreeMutt
I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!
I'm no petroleum engineer, but I have 50 years in heavy equipment repair, and I believe 'grease is grease'. Too many big outfits use whatever grease the parts dept gets the cheapest on a wide variety of applications, with no observable increase in failure rates. Two exceptions...jaw crusher bearings and high operating temperature applications (like pug mill or asphalt plants).


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Originally Posted by TreeMutt
... He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

MAGA!




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For me on stubborn rusted nuts and bolts I have the best luck using several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and most any penetrating oil. Then make the last effort while still hot, if that doesn't work, I cut the SOB.

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Kroil and Balistol have worked well for me over the years. I'm going to try the acetone/ATF mix and see if it works as well and then maybe I can save some $$!!

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Valsdad
But the Kroil smellls cool.

It smells like cancer.
Did the cancer sniffing dog tell you that?


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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?

grin


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Originally Posted by 12344mag
Originally Posted by GaryLL1959
Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

^^This


It works even better at 75:25, it penetrates farther with more carrier.


At first glance I read that as more cancer shocked


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Originally Posted by Alan_C
Always read about the legendary penetrant . Over $25 for an 8 once can. I’ve tried most things but like liquid wrench and WD 40 for common things. What are you folks using ??


Angel piss is what I believe Mark Novak calls it. I love the stuff.

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
Originally Posted by TreeMutt
I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!
I'm no petroleum engineer, but I have 50 years in heavy equipment repair, and I believe 'grease is grease'. Too many big outfits use whatever grease the parts dept gets the cheapest on a wide variety of applications, with no observable increase in failure rates. Two exceptions...jaw crusher bearings and high operating temperature applications (like pug mill or asphalt plants).
Seems the folks I've known with machines, and the places I've worked over the years, just bought cases of grease where they bought their fuel or had an account for parts and such.

Seems the frequent/regular application of grease where needed is the ticket, maybe not so much the brand/style/makeup of the grease???


The desert is a true treasure for him who seeks refuge from men and the evil of men.
In it is contentment
In it is death and all you seek
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I wonder if turpentine and ATF would work?? I like the smell of turpentine, I always have it, and it would not evaporate as fast as Acetone. One of the purposes of the penetrant is Gunsmithing.

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Used it for years at work for free

Liquid Wrench is better by far


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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

That's Kroil


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Originally Posted by shootbrownelk
Originally Posted by ironbender
Kroil is the worst.


That video is worth watching.

He has several good ones


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Originally Posted by AZmark
I've never tried it. Does it work on arthritis and crabs????

IMO....Butter and garlic go better with crabs


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Eh- I don't use penetrating oils much. My little half-pint? of Kroil lasted me over 5 years. Just ran out, so I mixed up an ounce each of ATF and acetone and re-loaded the Kroil can. No need to mix up a big batch. I can always freshen it with a new shot of acetone.

Doesn't the acetone deteriorate the seal on a mason jar?


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i have an 8oz Kroil Drip can that i bought a few years ago. it is great for rifle screws. might take me a several days but a drop or two of Kroil every day will take the screws out. i have an 1898 (1903) Springfield Armory in 30-40 Krag. i put a 102K Redfield aperture sight and i wanted to remove the original rear sight. the rear sight was put on by 2 slotted screws. i tried taking them off with a screwdriver, but it was stuck. a drop or two of Kroil and i waited overnite. the next morning the screws are still stuck, so a drop or two Kroil and waited overnite. the next morning i took a screwdriver and one screw came out while the other was stuck. a drop or two of Kroil and waited overnite. the next morning, all it took was my hand to get the screw out. i do lot of refinishing the stock (esp Mausers), when the screw is stuck, it is Kroil to the rescue.

PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are good for taking bolts and nuts off, i use it. but when the rusty bolts and nuts are still stuck using Blaster and Wrench, its Kroil to rescue.


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Originally Posted by memtb
I can’t even imagine how many cans I went through, working in a paper mill and then near 30 years in the oil & gas industry! Good stuff! memtb

Yep. My buddy works for IP in central Louisiana and has for 30 years. Kroil is the ticket.


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I know what several smell like when they throw smoke and are on fire....


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Originally Posted by local_dirt
Originally Posted by Reloder28
Originally Posted by local_dirt
I've been using Kroil for about 15 years. Be advised, it will discolor certain metals. Found that out when I soaked one of my .22lr suppressors that had a monocore that got stuck to the cylinder. The cylinder ended up with a nice, light purple hue. 😀


Watt'sa matter with purple?



Nuttin. Works fine. Gemtech GM-22. Very lightweight. Works like a Champ. Compliments Dead Air Masks nicely.

So it made the anodizing change color to something like old Bushmaster purple?

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