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Want to sell one of those gallons? Mine is getting a little low! I'd rather put a few bucks into another fire member's pocket than deal with Kano labs these days!


Ignorance can be fixed. Stupid is forever!

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Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?


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I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!

Last edited by TreeMutt; 04/21/24.

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?

I'm no expert on that, PB Blaster & Lucas penetrating oil works for me as long as it does will continue using them for a cheaper price.

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Originally Posted by TreeMutt
I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!
I'm no petroleum engineer, but I have 50 years in heavy equipment repair, and I believe 'grease is grease'. Too many big outfits use whatever grease the parts dept gets the cheapest on a wide variety of applications, with no observable increase in failure rates. Two exceptions...jaw crusher bearings and high operating temperature applications (like pug mill or asphalt plants).


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Originally Posted by TreeMutt
... He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

MAGA!




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For me on stubborn rusted nuts and bolts I have the best luck using several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and most any penetrating oil. Then make the last effort while still hot, if that doesn't work, I cut the SOB.

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Kroil and Balistol have worked well for me over the years. I'm going to try the acetone/ATF mix and see if it works as well and then maybe I can save some $$!!

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Valsdad
But the Kroil smellls cool.

It smells like cancer.
Did the cancer sniffing dog tell you that?


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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by Riverc
I hear it works good but too pricey. PB Blaster and Lucas penetrating oil work good too at a cheaper price.

How many rusted bolts do you encounter that would warrant a cost benefit analysis on "penetrating" oils?

grin


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Originally Posted by 12344mag
Originally Posted by GaryLL1959
Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

^^This


It works even better at 75:25, it penetrates farther with more carrier.


At first glance I read that as more cancer shocked


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Originally Posted by Alan_C
Always read about the legendary penetrant . Over $25 for an 8 once can. I’ve tried most things but like liquid wrench and WD 40 for common things. What are you folks using ??


Angel piss is what I believe Mark Novak calls it. I love the stuff.

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
Originally Posted by TreeMutt
I asked a guy who ran an auto repair shop/inspection station for 50 years about mixing grease that have different chemical properties....internet gurus claimed that lithium, etc. shouldn't be mixed. He looked ay me as if to wonder what the hell I was talking about.

This in regards to boat trailer wheel bearings. I used to use bearing buddies that recycled grease. I have since quit using these after various problems. He scoffed at the suggestion you can't use different types of grease. IOW, "grease is grease" I'm no expert but apparently he is, as he ran a very successful business for half a century.

I think the same can be said for kroil vs other, like penetrants, lubes, etc. I try to use non-toxic when I can for everything but in the past used every gun cleaner/lube under the sun. Although some are apparently job specific as the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.

MAGA!
I'm no petroleum engineer, but I have 50 years in heavy equipment repair, and I believe 'grease is grease'. Too many big outfits use whatever grease the parts dept gets the cheapest on a wide variety of applications, with no observable increase in failure rates. Two exceptions...jaw crusher bearings and high operating temperature applications (like pug mill or asphalt plants).
Seems the folks I've known with machines, and the places I've worked over the years, just bought cases of grease where they bought their fuel or had an account for parts and such.

Seems the frequent/regular application of grease where needed is the ticket, maybe not so much the brand/style/makeup of the grease???


The desert is a true treasure for him who seeks refuge from men and the evil of men.
In it is contentment
In it is death and all you seek
(Quoted from "The Bleeding of the Stone" Ibrahim Al-Koni)

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I wonder if turpentine and ATF would work?? I like the smell of turpentine, I always have it, and it would not evaporate as fast as Acetone. One of the purposes of the penetrant is Gunsmithing.

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Used it for years at work for free

Liquid Wrench is better by far


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Originally Posted by ironbender
50:50 acetone:ATF

Nothing better, some as good.

That's Kroil


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Originally Posted by shootbrownelk
Originally Posted by ironbender
Kroil is the worst.


That video is worth watching.

He has several good ones


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Originally Posted by AZmark
I've never tried it. Does it work on arthritis and crabs????

IMO....Butter and garlic go better with crabs


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Eh- I don't use penetrating oils much. My little half-pint? of Kroil lasted me over 5 years. Just ran out, so I mixed up an ounce each of ATF and acetone and re-loaded the Kroil can. No need to mix up a big batch. I can always freshen it with a new shot of acetone.

Doesn't the acetone deteriorate the seal on a mason jar?


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i have an 8oz Kroil Drip can that i bought a few years ago. it is great for rifle screws. might take me a several days but a drop or two of Kroil every day will take the screws out. i have an 1898 (1903) Springfield Armory in 30-40 Krag. i put a 102K Redfield aperture sight and i wanted to remove the original rear sight. the rear sight was put on by 2 slotted screws. i tried taking them off with a screwdriver, but it was stuck. a drop or two of Kroil and i waited overnite. the next morning the screws are still stuck, so a drop or two Kroil and waited overnite. the next morning i took a screwdriver and one screw came out while the other was stuck. a drop or two of Kroil and waited overnite. the next morning, all it took was my hand to get the screw out. i do lot of refinishing the stock (esp Mausers), when the screw is stuck, it is Kroil to the rescue.

PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are good for taking bolts and nuts off, i use it. but when the rusty bolts and nuts are still stuck using Blaster and Wrench, its Kroil to rescue.


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