Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires 10/22 takedown scope?

Thinking of something low powered, maybe a 3 power vortex ?


What say you ?

Tia.

Cntrmass,

I have a Leupold fixed FX-II 2.5x20 Ultralight mounted in extra low rings on mine. The objective doesn't protrude beyond the rear of the locking/tension ring, so the scope won't get bashed while transported in the soft TD case.



Hope this helps,

Stump

Another low powered option at Midway, Link here I don't have one on a take down, I put one on a 7.62x39 Mini where it's been fine.

How well do those TDs maintain zero after takedown and re-assembly? I’ve seen varying reports, and also with regard to accuracy.

Dang, they dropped the price again after I just bought my second one. I really like those, especially the good ER.

Howa Mini or Mini 30?

Mine is accurate enough for hunting and killing vermin. I don't take it down, I guess I bought it more for the novelty.

I know you are not asking me, but I can report on this. My good buddy has one. The rifle shoots great, he has it set up with a red dot. We shoot 3/4" 5 shot groups with it at 50 yards. It actually impresses me, for what it is. The downfall is it needs to be re-zeroed after he pulls it apart and puts it back together. This is a major PITA. If you have ever dried zeroing a cheap red dot, you know what I mean.

The problem there, is after every use, he pulls it apart, and puts it back in the factory soft carrying case that the rifle came with. I like the compactness of the rifle/case, as does he, so he isn't going to change it. He just has to zero it every time he uses it. This makes it almost worthless, if he wants to use it on the unsuspecting jackrabbit in the back 40 or ground squirrel that sneaks out of its hole, near the irrigation pipes. Yes, it's good to have a well zeroed rifle, when shooting near those...Take that for what you want.

Oh, and by losing its zero, I'm talking about 5 inches low and 3 inches to the right or left. We took it apart and retested several times, and it always lost zero.

Actually, I was asking anybody.

I was going to ask if the red dot on your pal’s is receiver or barrel-mounted, but I don’t see the option listed. Barrel-mounting seems like it’d be better for retaining zero.

It's a Howa Mini and I agree, the scope is a good buy!

Thanks for the link. I held off buying a Korean scope for $250 , but $100 is worth a try.

BSA: Have you tried tightening the adjustment ring? When I tightened mine up the repeatability markedly improved.

I have a Leupold 2-7 rimfire scope on my 10/22 takedown. It does extend beyond the barrel connection but that has not been a problem for me. I take down the rifle for storage after almost every use. It holds zero well enough for 25 yard plinking without adjustments. I do check the zero and tweak the adjustments if I intend to do precise or longer range shooting.

It’s my buddies rifle. He was the one taking it apart and putting it back together. Next time we have it out, I’ll look at it better. Thanks for the suggestion

His red dot is mounted to the rail on the receiver

From the Ruger manual, page 17:

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/1022.pdf

Reinstall the barrel assembly. You should feel some resistance when turning the barrel assembly, but it should not be difficult. If further adjustment is needed, remove the barrel assembly and “tighten” or loosen” the adjustment knob accordingly.

NOTE: Following barrel installation, best fired shot accuracy will be achieved if the action is dry cycled prior to actually firing ammunition in the rifle: Remove the magazine from the rifle and be certain the chamber is empty. Keeping the rifle pointed in a safe direction, pull the cocking handle fully to the rear while holding the bolt lock up, then release the cocking handle, letting it “slingshot” (freely fly forward) into the ready-to-fire position. Repeat 2 - 3 times. This will properly “seat” the barrel assemply.


They list basically the same instructions on my 9mm PC Carbine. I tightened the adjusting ring until the barrel would not go back together, then loosened it one click at a time until the barrel went back in with a little resistance - not 30 inch pounds of torque worth, just enough to feel it. Then I slam the bolt forward 4-5 times.

Put a red dot sight on the receiver and fired a group at 50 yards, removed and replaced the barrel as above and fired another group which went on top of the first one. Even though it worked fine in practice it bugged me in theory so I finally just mounted the sight on the barrel and made the whole point moot.

While barrel mounting a scope is not an option with the 10/22 (AFAIK), even the Browning SA-22 this takedown design is based on uses a cantilever scope mount on the barrel to bypass the problem altogether.

Good info Jim.

I did the barrel mount rail and holosun 507c on a rail mount and with the high cheek piece it works great. And you can fit the whole thing in a ukulele case (a standard size 21" ukulele case).

that leupold looks alright...isn't it parallaxed for 150 yards though? I had a 2.5-8 vx3 sent in for 100 yard reparallax for a .17 hmr....so it's doable, rimfire scopes parallaxed around 60 usually no?

anyway, the reflex sight mounted low on the barrel mount was my interpretation, not expecting tack driver out of a take down so made more sense to me no magnification and ultra compact, but I needed something other than irons for the aging eyes

This was my solution. I had a gunsmith mount a rail directly to the barrel and mounted a leupold FX-II 2.5x scout scope.