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I like simple things. The Lee Dipper Cups for powder charging are about as simple as it gets but they don't seem to be too popular. When developing a load I will use the ladder test method and zero in on a powder charge range that gives good accuracy. Once the charge range is determined I match the powder charge to a dipper cup usually staying at the high end of the charge range. I find the Lee powder cup data chart to be very accurate for the different kinds of powder I use. It makes it very convienient to haul a reloading set up off to the range where I can tweak seating depth to further optimize the load.

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I use them, but not quite in that manner. I've found that the range of motion to scoop, dump into the scale pan, trickle and then dump into the case is easier for me than dropping from the Uniflow measure into the pan, switching hands and placing the pan on the scale, then trickling, then charging the case. I weigh nearly all my loads. Ball powders are the exception, provided they run through the Uniflow easily.

For me, it simply saves hand motions and is less tiring, good enough reason for me to continue using them.

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Flashhole: I use them and have for many years!
I have a really nice BR type (small volume) Redding Powder Measure and use it sometimes as well.
I do though, ALWAYS, weigh each charge individually.
I just used the Lee Dipper this morning. I used the 108 Dipper to get me within a couple of tenths of a grain for my load of 27.3 grains of H 335 for one of my 223's!
The Lee Dipper set really speeds up my loading.
I did notice today though that there was a lot of static "cling" to the outside of the dipper barrel. The powder was clinging so well that it did not come off when I dumped the dipper full into the powder scale pan!
So no harm done!
I was tempted to go get one of my wifes static cling preventing cloths to see if that would solve my minor situation.
Any suggestions?
In full disclosure I do "hide" my Lee Dipper set (when not in use) BEHIND several of my large loading blocks so my "sophisticated" type shooting/reloading buddies won't see it and make snide comments at me anymore! Like "rookie", "amatuer" and "get into the 21st century why don'tcha"?
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I use them for a lot of may handgun loading. They seem to give better results with flake powders than almost anything else. Plus, they never bind up, go out of adjustment or suffer from powder bridging.


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I used them alot of years and still do with blue dot loads.


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I use them and almost always have... when I started reloading, I was just using an old spoon I swiped out of the wife's kitchen...

When I first saw those Lee Dippers, I thought that was about the
quickest $6.50 or $7.00 I spent...

Every cartridge I load is with the Lee Dipper and an RCBS 505 Scale, that came in the Rock Chucker kit...

I was so worried that they were a new product that wouldn't sell well ( most simple Ideas that are that cheap don't seem to).. so I bought a second set of them, just to have in reserve... that was over 10 yrs ago...


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I've read where dipping your static affected item in "Joy" dishwashing liquid and simply letting it dry without wiping it off will eliminate the static cling. I haven't tried it yet, though.

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I use them all the time. I usually load up small batches, so I'm not inclined to get the Uniflow adjusted and then weigh every few charges anyway. I scoop, pour it into the pan on my scale and trickle up to the weight. Come to think of it, I could almost get rid of my Uniflow!

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Well you guys have gone and done it now!!!! smile

I just put the Lee web site in my favorites folder. I will have to order the little measuring scopes. I always wondered if they were worth it. I figured the scopes, a trickler, and a good scale was about all one needed to fill a case. Now I know it is and a fairly cheap way to do it at that.


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Originally Posted by shoot4fun
I've read where dipping your static affected item in "Joy" dishwashing liquid and simply letting it dry without wiping it off will eliminate the static cling. I haven't tried it yet, though.


I've never had a static cling problem... and if I did, I just knock them on the load bench unside down to get any sticky ones out...

When I use them, I use old 8 ounce yogurt cups to put my powder into, makes it easier to work with...

when I am done, I pour it back into the container using a yellow funnel that is normally used for putting anti freeze into your radiator... the funnel runs like 69 cents at Walmart and it has a big mouth opening... works good to load 460 Weatherbys also... ( just kidding.. like I do all my Weatherby Friends)...


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I've got some of the dippers, but rarely if ever use them. Actually, the time I do use them is only when loading up about 10 or less rounds (for whatever reason) ... so instead of filling the hopper on a thrower, I just dip and pour until I reach the desired weight ...

but if mine 'left', I wouldn't miss them ...


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Regarding static - I had that problem once. I took a Cling Free anti-static sheet from my wifes laundry supplies and wiped down the plastic.....problem solved.

Not to change direction with the thread but when I do load development I will almost always go to the powder that gives very high case fill with the lowest pressure (it usually turns out to be a slow-for-cartridge powder). I view it as an insurance policy. I really like lightly compressed loads when I can get them because I know I can't get too much powder in the case. The argument againt that thinking is - if you grab the wrong powder you can be in big trouble but that's the reason to only have one powder on the bench at a time. What I'm doing works and I get very accurate handloads.

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Yepper I use them and wouldn't want to be without them, however I also weigh each and every charge with them as well.

Dober


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Originally Posted by flashhole
I like simple things. The Lee Dipper Cups for powder charging are about as simple as it gets but they don't seem to be too popular. When developing a load I will use the ladder test method and zero in on a powder charge range that gives good accuracy. Once the charge range is determined I match the powder charge to a dipper cup usually staying at the high end of the charge range. I find the Lee powder cup data chart to be very accurate for the different kinds of powder I use. It makes it very convienient to haul a reloading set up off to the range where I can tweak seating depth to further optimize the load.


I have been using them with stick powders for, well, 30+ years. But I use them to drop the powder into scale and then trickle the the rest.

Even my Harrell's powder measure won't accurately meter H4831 and the like......and I've got so many powder measures and scales I keep talking myself out of an electronic measure grin

Just one more thing I don't have to plug in, I guess....... laugh


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If you do volume loading with stick powders Casey, do your self a favor and get one of the electric dispensers/scales......slickest thing since the invention of canned beer.

Oh yeah , I use a set of Lee dippers too, they are real handy for filling the scale when first working up loads for a rifle and changeing powders several times.

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I did it I just order a set of Lee scooper pooper cups. smile

In tomorrows mail.


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Derby, your next assignment is to "borrow" a Manhattan glass or whiskey tumbler from your neighborhood bar. Best powder tub known to man.

Fill it about 3/4 full. Now here's the secret to using dippers: you do NOT pull the scoop through the powder mouth end first. To get very uniform charges, you BACK the dipper into the powder, allowing the powder to fill the dipper of its own weight. Lift the dipper out carefully. Now you have a choice: you can scrape or wipe the powder level with a card, OR simply allow the powder to equalize by forming a dome. The size and shape of such a dome is remarkably constant - and is a great way to get an extra couple of tenths if a level scoop tends to come up a teensy bit light.

In practice, it's very fast. I back the dipper into the powder, lift and pour into the case (through a funnel). Then simply replace the dipper back into the powder while I seat a bullet in that case. Repeat until you have no more empties!


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I have and use both sets, the OLD original black colored ones and the New Yellow colored ones. I just wish there was an UPDATED chart for the newest powders available etc.

Plus,there are several dozen DIFFERENT sizes of brass cases/with handles that are cut down to the perfect load/powder combo of which ever rifle/pistol loads that does not fit the scoops.

Before I could afford to get the RCBS measure,(early 60's), I was taught by an old HANDLOADER how to make a scoops to fit a standard load for any of the favorite rifles or pistols I was using at that time. Then the Lee scoops came along and were added to the collection.

How much Bullseye powder will a fired 22 short case hold??? Makes a perfect 38spcl round ball load in the TC for bunny hunting, head shots ONLY!!!.


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Somehow that was funny as you describe it. grin

Never thought of a Manhattan whisky glass though for puting powder in. That I'll have to try.

Now that I think about it backing the dipper in makes sense.

Thanks.


Don't vote knothead, it only encourages them. Anonymous

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups." Anonymous

"Self-reliance, free thinking, and wealth is anathema to both the power of the State and the Church." Derby Dude


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Originally Posted by Seafire
When I use them, I use old 8 ounce yogurt cups to put my powder into, makes it easier to work with...

when I am done, I pour it back into the container using a yellow funnel that is normally used for putting anti freeze into your radiator... the funnel runs like 69 cents at Walmart and it has a big mouth opening...


Dang! Here I thought I was the only reloader using a Lee scoop with a yogurt cup. My cup is 25 years old from a brand name that no longer exists, and has a nice graphite patina. However, my funnel is blue, and fits old IMR and WW powder cans nicely. The cup and funnel stack nicely on the Uniflow top when not in use.

--Bob

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