Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Varathane 66 availability

I tried the two links, and went to the Lee Valley site.

Do you mean that for epoxy that you use epoxy glue? I thought it might be some type of epoxy based wood finish.

Could you post a link to how to apply the epoxy finish?

I'm not Sitka Deer, but the answer to your first question is "Yes". I like the S-1. The S-2 smells nasty.

The links to the discussion of his process are in like2shoot's post just before yours.

Paul

I have not used the S-1 and S-2 blends, but the G-1 and G-2 are my standards these days.

Sorry, brain fartt on my part

I meant G-1 and G-2

Paul

They do make an S-1 and S-2...

FIRST TRY REPORT

As this thread is running, I have a couple of finishing projects in the works. One is a stock that I am refinishing. Although completely stripped, I followed Art's advice and did not use epoxy for a base on a refinish job. I've just been filling the grain with successive coats of Tru-Oil, and it looks like a typical example of such - getting very shiny as the finish builds up. After I sand it back to level the pores, I shall rethink what final finish to use. It'll probably be Art's home brew because:

At the same time, I have been finishing a Schuetzen palm rest that Brent made for me. Think a somewhat pear shaped piece of walnut. I started with three fill coats of Acraglas, then three coats of wipe on - wipe off Tru-Oil. I found that the T-O got sticky if left on, so I wiped it down right away. It was looking very nice.

Yesterday I pulled together the ingredients for Art's Varathane 66 substitute, and this morning mixed them together and put a coat on the ball.

Friends, the thing just glows! No shiny plastic looking Tru-Oil finish, just a nice soft semi-gloss, the kind I would love to see on any stock.

Of course, this is still preliminary as I'll have to see how it finishes out and holds up over time. Also, being just 3" around it doesn't present the challenges of getting uniform results on a larger area like a butt stock.

So far I am sold on using epoxy as a fill coat. This summer I am going to finish a new stock, so this is a good trial run. The one thing I would have done different is use an epoxy base on the stock I am presently doing. I think most of the old finish was out of the pores, so the epoxy would have worked well. I like the "feel" of the home brew as well. It doesn't get as sticky as Tru-Oil.

Thanks again, Art.

Paul

Paul
Glad to hear it works for you.

Be careful when developing opinions about finishes. They change dramatically throughout their shelflife. Almost all start out at least pretty good, but go downhill fast, especially after opening. Fresh Tru-Oil is not sticky, but it gets that way fairly fast...
art

Well, we've talked about Tru-Oil a time or two. This is a new bottle, and if what you say is correct, a bottle can get "sticky" before you've finished the job. Just my limited experience.

What's your prognostication about the shelf life of the home brew? I put it in a brown medicine bottle. BTW, that's another item that was once common, but no longer available. I tried to get a couple at the pharmacy, and just got a blank look from the young gals behind the counter. Seems they don't use them to brew up liquid meds any more either. Ah, progress!

Paul

I generally mix just enough to do a job and start over fresh each time. I have made enough mistakes the other way... more than enough mistakes...

Well, round and round and I still don't know where to send to get some Varathane 66.

Wayne

Why not try Daly's products? Many Professional Gunstockers use their products.

http://www.dalyspaint.com/catalog_seafin.html

Exactly which product on that page are you suggesting for stockfinishing? Can you name a single maker using any of them straight from the can?
art

I believe Duane Wiebe uses Dalys,although I don't know if its straight from the can. I also believe that James Tucker uses Dalys, although once again I don't know if its straight from the can. And finally, I believe that Chic Worthing also uses Daly's, although once again I don't know if its straight from the can.

Varathane 66 is a floor finish, a blend of oil and polyurethane.
The original formulation was taken off the market in 1984, due to regulations.

Watco Penetrating Oil is also used on floors, but dries with more satin luster, so it is used on furniture. An oil finish like Watco or Pilkington can have shine, or luster, if the wood is properly smoothed and polished before application.

Lee
Just shaking my head... As a sharp fellow once said "If I knew as much about that as you do I would ask for advice, not give it."

Not a single sentence contains an actual fact. Amazing!
art

IOW, you have never used Varathane 66 or Watco.
Would you like a link to instructions on how to apply them to flooring, furniture or gunstocks?

Lee
Without looking I will bet any amount the manufacturer states explicitly that Watco oil is NOT reccommended for floors.

I have used and currently have 66 and Watco on hand. I have used both on furniture and gunstocks.

Polishing wood before the finish is applied is NOT a good idea.

Again, you have no clue about what you are Googling...
art

Watco for floors?

PRODUCT FEATURES:
Indoor use only (Not recommended for Floors)

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=46

Must be more than one flavor of Watco. Mad River Canoes recommended the stuff for use on wooden canoe gunwhales (ash).

I've used it for that and it worked well. I don't think I would use something recommended for indoor use only on a rifle.

Brent

Brent
I agree, that is why mixing it with spar varnish is a good idea.
art