Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Rem 700 trigger

I have an older Rem 700,in fact it's one that they blued a stainless barrel on from the factory.They said they did this for one year.Is there any trigger adjustment on this rifle or will I need to do a trigger job to improve pull

Welcome to the 24 HCF. Remington triggers are adjustable by qualified smiths and/or advanved do-it-your-selfers. If you get the triggers re-worked properly, it should serve you well.

habitat
What like2shoot said...

Those black Stainless rifles were made for quite a lot longer than a single year. I have a number of them and have yet to see one that did not shoot extremely well.
Welcome!
art

I was going on what Remington told me and it may be in that caliber.I guess I will have to send rifle to tulsa to have trigger done

My dads older remmy with a stainless barrel shoots like crap... Shots pretty much everything he feeds it under 1 1/2 at 200 yards... What a POS..... There must be something wrong with it... haha.... It shoots great... Just remember that this is one of the guns that had the recalls... My dads 7mm did fire off twice with a finger nowear near the trigger.. Remmy did fix the trigger for $20 bucks... POS still shoots 1 1/2 at 200 yards with a 6lb trigger....

I have a 721 that I did the trigger on. If the trigger on that 721 can be done by a rookie like me, that 700 can be done!

Best to be mentored along by someone with experience rather than venturing out on your own.....at least for the first time. If no one you know has those skills, take it to a 'smith for your trigger job.

Remmy triggers aren't extremely difficult to work on, but as opposed to, say the Tikkas and Sakos with only one adjustment screw, the Remmy's have 3.....and they all need to work in unison to be both smooth and reliable/safe. It does take a bit more time and ability to learn how to adjust a Remmy trigger properly.

Good luck.

The older Remington's can easily be adjusted by anyone with a bit of common sense and a screwdriver. "Common Sense" is the cut.

The new X-Mark triggers can be managed with a spring change, but the adjustments are fixed and cannot be changed for travel and sear engagement. For any improvement on those, a Timney or Rifle basix, etc. is the best choice.

The new ones can also be fully adjusted, but it takes a bit more to get the epoxy off to expose the screw heads. The new stuff is not like the old stuff that could be removed with a dental pick.

RickB. fingernail polish remover or acetone will melt the epoxy

Jamie,

Did you find that the epoxy was also on the threads on the ones you've done?

Definitely a design feature straight from the legal department, but a very good trigger all the same.

Solder pencil always heated up that plastic good enough to get it moving for me. Once it gets in soft state just go after it digs out pretty easy. Soaking the whole trigger assembly would not be a bad thing either.

No I dont think so. Once the head of the screws are clear ( use a screwdriver tip that fits properly)

Swany and Jamie,

Are you guys talking about the new X Mark Pro triggers or the old ones?

Old ones

That's what I thought. I don't believe fingernail polish remover is gonna do much on the stuff they're using on the new X Mark Pro triggers, and the screws on these have allen heads.

Removing the sealer on the olds ones is a piece of cake compared to the new ones.

I've always scraped the epoxy off with a small flat blade screwdriver, and I don't recall the new X Mark I did to be particularly more difficult?

Carl,

Just so I'm understanding you...are you saying that you removed the material covering the overtravel and sear engagement screws on a new X Mark Pro trigger by scraping it off with a screw driver?

Perhaps that's where the misunderstanding (on my part) lies, as I was only adjusting the pull weight and didn't bother with the overtravel and sear engagement.

My memory isn't crystal clear on the process, but I do know that I had no more difficulty adjusting the pull weight on the X Mark vs. a old style trigger, and that I thought it better than average for a factory trigger when finished.

I've only recently started playing with the other adjustments, and haven't done an X Mark since I have. I'm going to guess they are quite difficult to get at, based on your comments?

Carl

Carl,

The stuff covering the weight adjustment screw on the X Mark Pro is the same stuff that was used on the older triggers, and it peels/flakes right off. The stuff on the new sear engagement and overtravel screws is not the same. It is more like steel epoxy and is also on the threads.

I don't know what kind of acetone and fingernail polish remover these other guys used to get it off, but it sure ain't any I have ever seen.