Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Tooooo Much Diesel Talk???

You guys are a bad influence. Because of all the discussion lately, I can't keep my mind of my Dmax. I mean, I am always fond of the truck, but due to the recent discussions here, I'm finding I want to do more stuff to it. Normally, I have that problem when I post on The Diesel page, but now it'a problem here as well.

Last week I put on 285/75R16s on 16x8 rims. I finally got the inner fender wells out of the way with the proper clearance. However, I have this itch to go to work on the one spot that has less clearance that I'd like--the inside sheet metal corner of the aft portion of each fender. The tires get within an inch of this place when at about 3/4 steering wheel travel.

It is a spot that I can work on without messing up the looks of the truck. I have the tools to do it. All I need is some primer and a can of that factory matched paint. No, it won't be perfect but to see this spot you'd have to pull the innder fender liner. The paint is mainly for corrosion protection.

I figure I'll clearance this area then take a turn back out of my torsion bars. I have installed aftermarket torsion bar keys designed to have more travel than stock. I've had them on a year and they have been great. I'm not having any problems with their current setting, but I have a gut feel I should take a turn or two out.

My wife has a differet take on all this. After I explained to my wife I had the wheel wells propelry clearanced, she asked if I was going to quit working on it then. I explained that though the clearance is fine now, it would be a problem if I had to put snow chains on or if I jumped the truck and landed with the steering wheel at 3/4 travel. This didn't seem to sway here. We are currently stationed in San Antonio, and I don't normally jump my truck.

I guess she is tired of being a "Diesel truck widow". In my defense, I don't go out with the boys, or troll for stuff I shouldn't. I mean, being an obsessive gear-head, hunter, and trumpet player has to be better than engaging in the typical male carousing. Right?

Anyone else have any of these "issues?"

Blaine

Blaine:

Uh, no. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Rick

When you put the keys on the front T-bars, did you have the truck front end (wheels) aligned for caster and camber? If not, how are your tires wearing? If so, how are your tires wearing?

Thanks.

Well,
actually, I think you need to have those injectors free floated, the pump trued & squared & the whole block cryoed. Other than that, don't take on any BOMBED Dodges otherwise your dreams will be very troubled <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
badger

At last ! Somebody admits that it isn't just rifles that they are obsessed with ! It's 4WD's. It clothing. It's.... It's....
I can finally "fess up" to my multiple addictions. As I sit here, pounding the keys, one at a time with just one finger on each hand, feeding my addiction.
Is there a 12 Step Program for this addiction ? I've tried saying no. I've said NO. But, there is NO ESCAPE ! E

Toot,

I raised the front end 2" and did have the front end realigned. The stock keys are good for about an inch of additional lift I am told. The keys that I have are good for 3" of lift, but if you go much over 2" the ride gets choppy due to the weight transfer.

Here is the link. You can find the keys under "Levelling Kits".

http://www.hill4wheeldrive.com/

I am not sure how much you can change the height without a realignment. I am guessing +/- a half-inch, but that is nothing but a guess.

Blaine

I'm not sure I even want to be cured.................

The IFS in the Toyotas which is the same design in theory would cause CV joint problems with more then 1.5" of lift. I can't even begin to tell you how many guys I know with failed CV joints from this exact cause. They worked for quite a while but when they went it was bad news and very expensive to fix. The Full size Chevy would likely be able to handle 2" because of the longer span. However I would really get a 4" lift over torsion bar adjustments alone if more the 1.5-2" was needed.

Blaine of all the mods you have done for improving dependability you would be the last guy I would expect to risk too much height and drive angle with a turned up torsion bar.

def--Diesel: The runny stuff you mix with saw dust to use as an aid in starting a fire in elk camp. Steve

2" is about where mine is at. I have had this kit installed for a year with no problems. I agree that if more than 2" is needed, a lift kit is the way to go. Before I bought these keys I asked around, and everyone that had been running them really liked them and hadn't had any problems. Here is what the manufacturer says:



Will this kit cause front end problems or prematurely wear out suspension and steering components?



No, this kit actually places less of a load on steering components than conventional 4" or 6" lift kits which use ladder style replacement steering drag links. Full bracket drop kits integrate the steering drop with an offset drag link, (with or without a 3rd idler link); this places a 4"-6" cantilever against the idler arm, pitman arm, and the steering box lower bearing. The leveling kit does not change the drag link or subject the steering components to any of these conditions, commonly associated with premature idler arm failure in IFS lift systems.



The leveling kit works within the range of the FACTORY droop, or downward suspension cycle. It does NOT bind the CV axles or ball joints, just as none of these conditions occur with the truck supported on a hoist and the front wheels hanging freely in the air. A word about IFS lifts: Contrary to popular belief, it is typically the aftermarket wheel and tire combination, and NOT the suspension lift that causes premature failure in IFS components. Wide oversized tires on 10" or 12" wide rims commonly seen with 6" to 8" lifts will cantilever the ball joints and wheel bearings into premature failure --- blaming a properly installed suspension lift for these problems is a common misconception. With that in mind, the leveling kit does not allow clearance for 10" or 12" wide aftermarket rims or drastically oversized tires and this is not a concern.



However, I did just e-mail them again pressing the issue. I also posted a question on "The Diesel Page" concerning this. many of the guys there have either cranked up their factory torsion bars, installed "green" keys, or installed the keys I'm using. I also went ahead and took 2.5 turns out of each key since I now have ample tire clearance--though I am going to work on the fenders very soon.



Blaine

Thanks, Blaine. I just ordered a set from your link. I was just gonna have mine aligned as I now have > 40k miles but will wait till these are installed.
JJ, you're dead center in the 2" max for those bigger trucks. I've heard of guys going higher with bad results, and not just to cv's or u-joints. 3" body lifts work well but you then have those bumber and air bag things to deal with along with fan shroud and tranny linkages.
Thanks again, Guys.
We need to start a "truck topic" to the forum, eh?

Shhhhh !! Be Warry-Warry Qwiet ....

Don't tell Blaine that the Feb-04 issue of Chevy High-Performance magazine (page 64) has a road test of a hopped-up 2500HD Duramax Diesel, quarter in Low 12 seconds (corrected).

S.B.

SB,

I'll have to look at that issue. However, I am not looking for that much out of my truck. Maybe I'll go from my 90 HP module to the 125 HP module, but definitely not the 140 HP module.......................well, maybe the 140 but there's no way I'd think about the 215 HP module.......................check that, maybe just the 215 without propane or nitrous.......................

There is a guy that posts on The Diesel Page who has ran 12.49 @ 105.37 with just boxes, and 11.95 @ 111.46. I don't remember if that pass was with just one 215 HP box, or if he had a couple stacked. Getting the HP out of the engine is fairly easy and relatively inexpensive, but there is about a $6K bill to pay to get the Allison properly beefed. Also, I'm not sure how he keeps his front end under his rig. Full boost launches in 4WD can't be the best thing for the factory CV joints and tie rods.

Here is the link if you are interested: http://forum.thedieselpage.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=007149

Blaine

What kind of exhaust are you running on your rig? Do you have that irritating "drone" at hwy speeds?

The low et guy is having traction problems, it a 2 wd truck. He's added rear weight, shifted nose angles, etc., but with no et improvement. Next consideration is to go to a 4wd truck, same setup for engine and tranny, drop the rear drive shaft off and let'er launch and run on the front end. That'll improve the et for sure but what about that transfer case?

Why drop the rear driveshaft? Why not just run in 4X4? The Dodge guys are doing that for a better launch. Best time in a street legal Dodge I've seen is 11.14 @ 121 MPH on straight No.2 diesel.

I have a Magnaflow 20" muffler on the stock system. Magnaflow--who also builds full stainless exhausts, said the muffler was 75% of the restriction. I didn't have gauges until after installed the muffler, but there is a guy who installed this same muffler o his Dmax and reported a 150ish degree drop in EGTs. I guess the full 4" exhaust would be worth another 50 degrees or so, but I have't seen any side by side tests.

The low ET guy I provided the link to says in his signature that he's running a Crew cab 4x4. I don't know if he is launching in 4WD or is using slicks in 2WD.

Blaine

OK here are a few photo's from today as I promised:



This was taken just as we left the paved road going up the steep mountain road.







This was when I decided to turn around. Until I get the winch on in January I'm not gonna screw around too much in the back country.







Checking to make sure that Limited slip is working properly, It is and I got concerned that I would drag the rear bumper if I climbed any higher.







On the way back down the road has been travelled twice now so the track is beat down a bit. I'm still not dragging the diff but the side snow is 17" or so deep. I have 35" tires.







another shot at the depth of the snow. If it were fluffy it would be an easy cruise. However this snow weighs a ton and is very wet.







He farted so I said he had to get out and walk. That will teach him!







Just kidding!

Badger;
Drop rear driveshaft to eliminate drive train drag. Good enough launch w/front end only w/weight of engine on it +tack welded spider gears in the front diff for posi-lock.
11.14 et w/a 6 banger Cummins on straight #2 is some kind of tuning and driving for sure. I'd like to see a video of it.

Blaine, thanks for the info on the magnaflow as I was thinking of doing the exact same. I earlier read a dyno test that showed near the same #'s that you just gave on restriction with the stock muffler. Where did you buy yours? (website?).
The guy you're speaking of, I think is not the same as the guy I was reading about and conversing with that has the 2wd. His tranny mod has proven bulletproof, so far.

Let me ask again about the "drone noise" from your muffler - any problem with it? It can aggravating to the point of being unbearable if it is there. Thanks.

JJ need to talk to you about another matter. Sending PM now.

Old Toot,
I'll see if I can dig up the video for you on that one. Interesting thing, its his wife's daily driver & I think it was her driving........ <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />
badger

Got my spare today and that 35" tire just barely made the fit under the truck. It clears the right side shock by a little bit! How lucky is that, now I don't have to pull a front tire off to run in the back if I get a rear flat.

I really need mud flaps or fender flares too. The crap that I accumulated on the sides of my truck this weekend is amazing!

JJ,
you'll need both flares & flaps with those big tires. I have stock size tires & even with flaps, the sides get pretty messy. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Thinking of some step bars to help keep some of the gook off the doors.
badger

The noise is very slight. The turbo whine and wind noise are more noticable. It's not 100% quiet, but it is nowhere near as noisy as a Flowmaster. Also, it doesn't resonate in the cab like a Flowmaster. Realize you have to weld it using appropriate stuff to weld stainless, and you must also use a pair of 3.5" to 4" adapters. I had a local muffler shop install mine. I like how it is tucked up out of the way, but I did need them to put a slight bend in the tail pipe--you can't see it unless you look at the truck from the bottom--to get the tailpipe up and out of the way. The bonus is my tailpipe is higher off the ground than it was stock.



Here is Magnaflow's website: http://www.magnaflow.com/

Jim,

Nice Pics!

Blaine

Thanks, Blaine. "Resonate" was the word I was searching for and Flowmasters are about the worst for doing it. From that website, there's a Magnaflow dealer about 3 miles from my home.

Just FYI, if you have an interest in a deeper tranny pan (more fluid volume, about 3 more quarts) for that Allison, the part # is 29536522 at < 50$. Another part # used is 29536891 or 29537966 for the new suction filter and tube extension for the filter at ~ 22$. Draining and removing the old pan, and putting on the new pan will require you add back 11 and 1/4 quarts of fluid. I've got one but haven't installed it yet.

Old Toot,



try this link. Not the one I was looking for, but a good video nonetheless. This is a Ford Super Duty with a Cummins 6-banger in it <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

http://turbodieselregister.com/foru...1938045058587b338&threadid=86688



Click on the link to the video on the second page of this thread,

badger

Another link to a daily driver Dodge

http://www.theclashofthetitans.com/images/videos/vids/Diesel1.mpg