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Its been forever since I put on a grind to fit pad on anything, I had done a few several years back and as I recall I did OK. Well, I just "tried" to put one on tonight and I can say I now officially suck at it.

My technique is to use a belt sander to get the basic shape as close to the wood as I dare, I put 2 layers of tape on the stock to save the finish, then use a file to get it real close then finish up with sand paper.

So is it the way Im doing it or my lack of practice?

Hello

I probably suck at it too - but I was pretty happy with the last result on a $500 + stock.

I use a belt sander (100 grit, sharp a belt as you can get alum/oxide is best but we can seldom get them here) right up to the final "lick off" or polish with 280 grit paper.

To do this you need to put your sander in a vise with a guide at the same level as the belt (I use a piece of plank 3/4"s thick. It needs to be very precisely set up, takes several "adjustments" to get it just so. With the stock taped you can then very precisely control where the belt is cutting. I aim to leave the mearest lip of pad backing against the stock - it comes off in the final sand with the 280.

If anyone is interested I'll set it up and take a picture.

Cheers - Foster

What make of pad? The Packmayrs grind down nicely.. The miserable Limbsavers are a gen-u-ine PITA.. For those, you need to lubricate the pad/sander... And what a mess those make!!

I usually apply just one layer of 2" masking tape to the stock, use the disc side of the belt sander to grind down to the tape, then remove the pad and finish the main grind on the belt sander; holding the pad horizontal to the belt position.. Final finish by hand with a padded block and 360 grit paper.... Takes about 45 minutes, front to back..

If it is one of the limbsavers try a rougher grit on your belt, I usually go with 80. I was also advised to freeze the pad but that did not really seem to help. I have given up trying to get a super smooth finish like you can attain on a Pac pad and usually finish with a vertical grain from the rough belt and leave it as is.

The grit I use is either 80 or 60.. The rougher, the better for those things...

Redneck, I have been using the disk side as well (cheap belt/disk combo from Home Depot), but I have been mounting the pad, scribe the back side, and then remove it and mount it on one of the Miles Gilbert jigs from Midway. Works very well for me this way, but the Decelators seems to "grab" the disk every now and then and that makes a good flat spot at that point. Is this common, or what should I do differently? I have been a little nervous about grinding it with the pad on the rifle.

Also, what's the best method to round over the edges? I like that look better than the straight edge around the outside of the pad.

Thanks!

I have a Midway jig also.. I've only used it a couple of times when the stock has like 10-geezer wood.. LOL..

When I first got into this business I used to get REALLY nervous when doing a pad. I made sure I had NO coffee that morning and double-taped the stock.. Now, after probably a hundred pads installed I've had enough practice to not let it bother me..

Pads can grab.. You MUST have a good, solid grip on the stock. I tip the disc table down about 10 degrees to enable the stock and pad to pivot very easily right next to the disc.. You also need to pay attention to your particular disc as to how fast it's eating into the pad. Excellent lighting is also crucial.. I have a 300 watt (AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHhhh it's an 'incandescent'....... AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH) (that was for the 'greenies' that may be lurking.. ) bulb positioned directly over the disc and table in just the right spot to light the cutting edge up fully.. I also use my 'close-up' glasses that focus at 12" or less so I can REALLY see what I'm doing.. Don't grind in one spot.. Practice 'rolling' the stock from back cutting edge to front edge in even strokes. Don't be afraid to stop often and ensure nothing's getting too hot.. Excess heat can kill a pad easily.. I grind until the pad is JUST at the tape without touching it.. Then, it's removed and I finish up using the belt sander; taking off an even cut on all sides, checking often by holding the pad onto the stock until I'm almost done, the rest is sanded by hand with a padded block and 240 grit..

You can round the edges with a padded block and 100 grit paper, running along the edge, not across it.. Go slow, and make sure the cuts are even..

Thanks! A couple more questions based on your post if you don't mind. Do you hold the stock in a vertical orientation? How do you keep the angle correct at the bottom of the stock? Thanks again!!!

Yes, vertical, for all but the toe.. With practice, as you turn the pad to the toe, you also cant the stock so the angle of the pad grind stays parallel with the bottom of the stock.. Takes a little practice, with especial care not to hit the stock with the wheel..

Grinding a pad on the stock is asking for trouble and is certainly unnecessary. Brownells sells a jig called the B & R jig. I made a clone of it many years ago and have never used any other method. You can grind and finish a pad to a hairline, remove it from the jig and it will fit the stock perfectly. The heel and toe angles will be correct and there will be no overhang at any point if you have done the job correctly.

See http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...2&title=RECOIL%20PAD%20FITTING%20JIG

RWO

Like I stated above, I used a jig early on and still do if the need arises.. I don't need it much anymore. And heel and toe angles can still be done exactly with the pad on the stock..