Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger no.1 breechblock

Would anyone have experience on how hard the breechblock face is? Can it be drilled/reamed with HSS? or does one have to go to carbide tooling?

I don't know, but I would like to know why you inquire if you don't mind sharing that information.

I bet someone at the yahoo Ruger #1 group knows what you seek.

If one was considering a couple of projects concerning a bushed firing pin or a rimfire conversion moving the existing centerfire firing pin position, the relative hardness of the surface and interior of the breechblock would be interesting to hear about from someone with that first hand experience level.

The No.1 Yahoo forum seems to be somewhat of a collector type forum at best with very limited information otherwise.

The No1 firing pin is already bushed.
It's just near impossible to see the seem.

I had a V in 22-250 that suffered some primer leaks. thought I was looking at a major bill to replace the breech block.
I was pleasantly surprised to learn it was simple (for the factory) job to replace the bushing, and no charge either.


Good luck getting it out though.

SOS

I did not know that the factory breechblock had a bushing around the firing pin hole. I polished up the breechblock face, but did not see the bushing. I noticed that the rear of the block has a filled hole(very faint outline) that is in line with the stud that indexes the transfer bar. I will have another more careful looksee at the block and relook at the patent drawings in the book, but did not see a firing pin bushing in either initially.

I wonder if the bushing or no bushing is a timeline thing.

Most interesting that the factory bushed your breechblock rather than just replaced it. Guess if one is set up for making blocks on a daily basis, what's another one to setup?

It appears I have one that is kinda large as to hole in the block and the firing pin itself, so would like to get it updated to a better fitting pin(smaller on both). Sending the whole works to the factory is something that I prefer not to do, rather have it done by a custom gunsmith locally.

Redz, I'm a regular on that forum, and while there are a couple of hard-core collectors there, most of us are shooters.

Have you asked this question there?

There's a bunch of info archived there about .22 rimfire conversions. The most common method seems to be changing the length of the link between the lever and the breech block so it positions the factory firing pin off center.

Jim

My initial question about the breechblock hardness is related to two efforts.

One is to be able to modify(rebush) the original factory breechblock to a smaller firing pin diameter. I looked again at the breechblock and drawings, I could not see the firing pin bushing referenced above. I did see the rear plug though.

The other is to consider the effort for a rimfire No.1 conversion. I am aware of the method by some gunsmiths that modifies/replaces the lifting arm. To me, purely cosemetics in that the block sits lower in the receiver, also have some fears about hammer clearances/timing in the lowered breechblock. All of that of course has been gotten around before, but I was most interested in the moving of the firing pin for a rimfire conversion that does not alter other things in the action timing.

Being able to drill/ream the existing centerfire breechblock is probably feasible due to the tooling available. This would keep the appearance the same as before. Just trying to hear about some one's effort in doing such; how much of a job was it, gremlins, etc.

Few gunsmiths take on a No.1 currently; probably is more trouble with the quarterrib and the ejector and can make more money from the bolt gun work.

I am not a member of the Yahoo No.1 forum, I have ventured over there a few times, some of the postings were a little much at times, so I moved on. I am sure that others will find what the Yahoo forum has to offer.

redz06

Your kidding about the Ruger # 1 Group, right.

You say:

"The other is to consider the effort for a rimfire No.1 conversion. I am aware of the method by some gunsmiths that modifies/replaces the lifting arm. To me, purely cosemetics in that the block sits lower in the receiver, also have some fears about hammer clearances/timing in the lowered breechblock. All of that of course has been gotten around before, but I was most interested in the moving of the firing pin for a rimfire conversion that does not alter other things in the action timing".

The top gunsmiths say the very best way to convert a # 1 to 22 RF is to lower the block so that it gives a 6:00 o'clock hit on the rim using the original center fire firing pin, this is thought to be the best for accuracy by the top RF benchrest gunsmiths in the country. Does not alter the timing at all and is much less work. Check out the archives of the # 1 group, has a lot of Info on the 22 conversion.

Then you say:

"Few gunsmiths take on a No.1 currently"

If you checked the Ruger # 1 Files section of the group you would have seen that there are over 15 gunsmith's that specialize in building Ruger # 1's.

Then again you say:

"The No.1 Yahoo forum seems to be somewhat of a collector type forum at best with very limited information otherwise".

I just checked the survey on that group that ask:
"What is your Primary interest in the Ruger # 1"
The results were:
Hunting 44 %.
Shooting 43 %.
Collecting 11 %.

Doesn't look like it's a "collector type forum" to me.

Guess you haven't really looked at the group that well, with over 980 dedicated # 1 members and users in the group, and over 15 gunsmiths that work on the # 1, I'm sure you could have gotten some very good helpful Info on the breech block and the # 1 in general.
SS

I was really simply hoping for some information about the Ruger No.1 breechblock as to relative hardness for my two projects from someone that had actually done the work themselves. In looking thru this forum initially, I thought I had a good chance of doing that here.

I searched the available archives on the Yahoo forum and found a few postings on folks that have the lifting arm conversion, no real details other it was replaced or modified. I attempted searching for breechblock conversions etc, and finally found one post by a fellow that was a gunsmith, he gave a few details on the start of his project. No one replied with any responses, and he did not post anymore.

On the Yahoo forum, I saw no details on the lifting arm modification by those that actually did the work themselves, only comments by those that owned one of those conversions. No pictures of any type of modifications were in archives, when I searched other than a picture of a complete rifle. Perhaps the owner of the lifting arm rifle could post some part pictures with comments sometime for everyone to see.

Really to be honest, I was not interested in the lifting arm modification because mainly of cosmetics; I would like to get information about the movement of firing pin, hence the original question.

I inquired locally in my state to find a smith that would take on such breechblock work, all declined that I spoke with. Not to say that someone else won't, but not found that person. Guess they make more money with bolt guns; cannot blame them for that.

Kinda sorry I commented on my searches on the Yahoo forum, but just did not find information there that I needed; I appreciate the reference to it, but had been there and searched the archives for my question. In looking thru the postings in general, I did not think I would get that information there.

Perhaps someone here on this forum will eventually help me out on my initial question on the breechblock hardness and perhaps graciously comment on the firing pin bushing and rimfire conversion.

redz06
If your looking for something like a "how to" article you may be better off and get more Info on a Gunsmith forum instead of a shooters or users forum.

I, like mcknight77, am a regular on the Ruger # 1 Group, read it every day and don't remember any question like yours being asked. Not saying that you didn't ask but I don't remember this question coming up, and I do pay attention to those kind of questions because I've had two # 1's that were converted, one that the block was converted and a new firing pin made, and another that the block was lowered, it didn't seem like there was much difference in cosmetics between the two as the block is not lowered that much from center for the pin to hit the rim, but there is some.

I sold the converted block one but still have the lowered block one, works and shoots fine, no problem with either one with hammer or timing. I'm no gunsmith but I think your biggest problem will be making up the ejector for the 22 RF.

Again, try a gunsmith forum, not trying to be a smart A$$, only trying to help.
SS

SS

Again, I am not interested in the lifting arm modification for a rimfire No.1. I do not know how to make it any more direct.

I would not feel bad that you do not know how the breechblock is done on a No.1 for special considerations; it is just a question thrown out to this forum. It was never intended to be a bother to the Yahoo forum; and I will not post such there in consideration of your recent comments. The breechblock conversion really has come up on that forum before, most forums have a search function of the archives, but the information was very limited in scope other than initial ideas of how to approach; did have some movement numbers to verify on ones own if so wanted. That gunsmith(he had an e-site) never posted again in my searchs there. I found nothing on the tooling or knowledge required to accomplish the task on the yahoo forum. Usually one can tell from the content of posting, whether a gunsmith wrote such or not, I did not see much on the Yahoo forum........just buying and selling, or collector stuff; that is ok, lots of folks enjoy that.

I have a Ruger No.1S in 218 bee that I would like to rebarrel to a 17 caliber or perhaps to a 22lr; or perhaps a 5.6x50?. In any case the breechblock modification is probably in the effort. Only No.1 I have, my first one to own, so modifying to my own tastes is ok here.

redz06,
It's your gun, you have the right to do what you want with it, you also have the right to look and ask anything you want on any forum. I was only trying to help, but like I've said

"If your looking for something like a "how to" article you may be better off and get more Info on a Gunsmith forum instead of a shooters or users forum"

I think it would be best you do it your way.

Please come back and let us all know how it works out.

And like you have said,
"I do not know how to make it any more direct"

SS

SS,

Ok, you have finally convienced me that folks should not post their no.1 questions on the yahoo forum. Took me a while to really understand that, but got it now.

Maybe someone on this forum will comment on the original question.

"Ok, you have finally convienced me that folks should not post their no.1 questions on the yahoo forum. Took me a while to really understand that, but got it now"


What are you talking about ?, are you on or off some kind of meds ?. Or do you have a problem with the english language ?.

All I've been trying to do is help you find answers to your question by saying that maybe you should try a Gunsmith forum, I never said that you should not ask your question on the Ruger # 1 Group, nor did I try to convince you not to, why do you have a problem with that ?.

The Ruger # 1 Group is all about members posting questions, and about members trying to help other members.

I guess it's possible that you don't belong there, and with your kind of smart A$$ attitude I don't think any one anywhere will want to comment on your question.

I was going to post a list of some good Gunsmith forums for you to check out, now you can go find them yourself.
SS

redz06, you don't by chance live in WA state, do you?

Jim,

Sorry; not in Washington state. Thanks for asking.

Sorry about being a little late with the response, as I have been out and about some.

Just checking. Good luck with your project.

Jim

redz06, I admire your restraint and civility. Somewhere I have an article in an old Gun Digest by (I think) Ken Warner. He met a fellow at a gun show that had done this conversion to his #1, and had done it well. There were graphs and other stuff that a person with two left hands such as myself admired, but didn't understand very much.

I'll see if I can find it and if there's anything I think you can use, I'll let you know.

Hello Bullet Bob,

Thanks for the reference. If you can possibly narrow down a little on the article date, I can take it from there. A friend here has most of the Gun Digests. I never thought about looking in them for this particular information. If you cannot find it, do not worry about it, I appreciate you looking/taking time for me on this question.

If I did not say it before, I appreciate everyone's comments on my question.