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I have been given the subject rifle and want to know what type Mauser action it has. It functions perfectly. On top of the receiver it says CARL GUSTAFS STADS, under that is stamped GEVARSFAKTORI. Under that is stamped 1900. On the side it is stamped G.F. and serial number645**. On the bolt release there is the number 054. It has a 3 way safety ready to fire when pushed to the left, bolt opens but won't fire when wing is straight up, and bolt won't open when pushed to the right. Is it a 93, 96 or 98 action or something else?

Its all original. Anything you all can tell me about the rifle will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brim

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Without seeing it it is hard to be sure, but it sure sounds like an M96.

There should be a brass disk on the side of the stock. In one segment, there are the numbers 1, 2, and 3. These indicate the condition of the bore at last re-arsenal. If nothing is marked, it has not been inspected since re-arsenal. A 1 means it's excellent, and a 3 means that it was scheduled to be rebarreled next time through. You'll also have another set of numbers indicating throat diameter, 6.49mm, 6.50mm, etc.

I consider the one I have to be a very fine firearm.


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...It is a 96 model Swedish Mauser (unless the barrel length is under 18", in which case it is the carbine version designated as a model 94)

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It's a model 96, Model 98 had gas shoruds on the bolt IIRC. Model 38 were the carbines, usualy with turned down bolts.


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Thanks guys, I will study that brass disc on the stock and see if it shows if it was inspected.

The bore was very dirty when I received it and nothing would break the copper fouling until I bought some foaming bore cleaner. I'll have to say that stuff works pretty good. I shot it 3 times today to heat up the bbl and see if I could hit a cardboard box at 20 yds. and cleaned it again. Plenty more blue gunk came out. I patched that stuff out and ran a tight brush through it with some Butches Bore Shine. It looks like a normal rifle bore that has been shot some. I'm sure there is more cleaning that could be done but I am going to shoot it some more with Winchester 140 gr. factory ammo. I assume it will be safe with that. I may handload for it since I have many 6.5 bullets for my .260 Mtn. Rifle.

My first two foulers shot high and holes were touching and third shot hit the big black dot I put on the box. It is easy to hold that long thing steady. Kind of reminds me of an old time muzzle-loader. Thanks again for the info. Brim

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Brim,

I have one that was made in 1919.. yours was made in 1900...

they are darn good shooters..accurate as hell..

if you hand load... loads of 30 grains of RL 7 or 30 grains of IMR 4198 with either a 140 or 160 grain bullet, are close to the original loadings and should recoil the equivalent of a 223 or 22.250 at most...

mine is straight bolt...I need to mount a receiver site on mine or something like that.. I can't see for crap with open sites..

but if I can see it that old Mauser will hit it..


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I can't see for crap with open sites..


Same problem here. Put Mojo sights on mine... easily done, easily reversed, makes a huge difference with old eyes.

www.mojosights.com IIRC.


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Denton,

thanks for the link!!! cool!!!!

put it on the budget to get, as soon as my family can afford to spend money on extras.. such as anything besides $4.30 a gallon fuel... I think I'll order a set up like that..


"Minus the killings, Washington has one of the lowest crime rates in the Country" Marion Barry, Mayor of Wash DC

“Owning guns is not a right. If it were a right, it would be in the Constitution.” ~Alexandria Ocasio Cortez

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Sarco Inc and others have the Swedish Army micrometer target sights for the M96 Swede. You can use the issue front sight, which had 6 different blade heights to set the initial zero at the lowest setting where you want (300 M was common).

Only about the first 4,000 6.5x55 Swede rifles were built on the 1893 and 1894 actions, in Germany by Mauser, with Swedish steel. The Carl Gustav factory was soon finished to build the Model 1896.

I will post a picture of my 1893 Sporter. The last owner, in the original family, installed a Lyman 48 rear sight.

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Very neat rifles with about as good a fit and machining as one can find on even a modern unit. Those boys could really work metal. I'm working up a 1906 Gustaf now with a butter knife bolt handle, drilling and tapping for a scope, and recrown of the barrel. Bluing is excellent and the action absolutely glass smooth. I haven't decided on a trigger or safety setup yet.

My disk showed a 1 for barrel condition and it came off the shelf extremely dirty. About 30 seconds with JB paste, however, and the barrel is absolutley flawless. Had the seller cleaned the unit up first, I would have paid twice his asking price. Can't wait to get a stock built and light it off.


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Have thought about stocking it with a 1906-style sporter stock, or were you going more modern, like the Mauser Model B, or current style?

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...If you're going to sporterize the gun, be sure to consider altering the action for a "cock on opening". In my view the old model 96 Swede with that modification is an equal in the game field to the great model 98...

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I would not modify the cocking, safety or trigger on a rifle of such vintage. I'd shoot it with open sights if I possible could (and I can). My 1893 Swede was modified by the original owners, and I probably will never go any further than that, except to build a second stock for it in nicer walnut with checkering, but still of the pre-WWI style.

If you have to scope an M96 or M38, I would look for an original side mount that doesn't mess up the bridge. There are lots of those around Sweden and Denmark from their converted hunting rifles and sporters of the 1930s.

These rifles are still usually so cheap, you can leave one unchanged, and find another that is already drilled and messed with for your project rifle to "modernize".

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Guys:
I have not thought about stock style yet, but will probably go with something on the more modern side. The wood has been under the bed for years drying, and I'll probably just pick a stock from another of my rifles, do a tracing, and start carving.

As to the cock on closing issue... Is there some technical advantage or accuracy deal associated with cock on opening? Without some real justification, I don't really care.

I'm not a real collector yet and got this unit to shoot and use. That being, it's getting the bolt handle job, being set up for a scope, and having the front sight chopped. I'm hoping it's an accurate unit, as I'd just like something a little different from todays commercial units to pack around.

I will admit though that I did just recently start my arms collection. At least that is what I told the wife. "Yes, dear. This one is an investment, not something I plan to use." Her comment was "You expect me to believe that!" The first piece is a pre-64 Winchester Mod 70, that will remain unaltered.

I would appreciate thoughts on the cock on closing deal.

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Last edited by 1minute; 07/18/08.

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