Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades Need help making knives out of files

Was hoping someone might have an online source for directions on preparing a file as a knife blade. I really have no idea how to go about removing the "rasp" on the files.
The knives I want to make would be more accurately described as scrapers. The blade would have to be PERFECTLY straight,as would the edge. and it would be a single beveled edge, approximately 45 degrees.
I am also curious about what would make for a good handle. Handle should be about the width of the blade, and about the length of the width of my hand.
The length of the blades would be between 3 and five inches, and the files I am using are about 3/4 inches in width.
My shop skills are amatuer, and my equipment is limited. Thanks for any links, personal directions, suggestions.

There was a good article in last months Backwoodsman magazine on how to make knifes out of files. I think there is alot easier ways to make a knife, but if you want to try itmay be fun. If you PM me your address I'll send you the article.

I've made several knifes out of old files. I used a side head disc sander to remove the "teeth" from the file. Then ground to shape on a bench grinder. I then heated up the tang to dull red and held it at this color for 30 seconds, then back off heat slowley. This makes it soft enough to drill through, for mounting handles. For handle material I used old bandsaw guides, which were micarta. Good luck with your project.
Virgil B.

ccrifles-thanks for the article info-I have read it so a link is not necessary.
vbshooting range- that is some very helpful info. I have the sander you mentioned, so that will not be a problem. And I do have a bench grinder, which I think will be good for "squaring" the files.
I am thinking about using an aftermarket file handle for the handles. I found some on line that were to my liking. Basically about four or five inches long, with very little contour (somewhat like a dowel, but a little different). Thanks for all of the help and advice.

For what you're looking at doing I'd say you are using a less than steller steel and putting alot of labor into making something that you'd be better off starting with a piece of tool steel. It will already be ground straight, made of higher quality steel, and you won't have to worry about stress risers from the teeth not being completely ground out.

Most files barely have enough carbon to harden them and you'll have to resort to a brine to get them hard.

458lott-
Thanks for the info. Do you have any idea where I would go to purchase "tool steel"? Is there an on line source that you know of, and is there a particular type that you would recommend?

I'm not sure where you live, but any machine shop supply house will carry it. O-1 which is oil hardening tool steel will work well, and can be had in a variety of precision ground sizes. You could check out enco, msc, or a host of others.

Do a Google on Knifemaker Supplies.

Some Knifemaker suppliers carry a large variety of steels, in various shapes and sizes, and I think some of them might have steel aviable surface ground to precise dimensions.

These steels will be in the annealed condition, so you will have to have the blade heat treated after grinding.

I have made a few knives from files, and I think trying to grind off the teeth and get the steel in a usable shape is a lot of unnecessary work and trouble, when there is steel available in about any size you need.

Also, you might do a search on Crucible Steel. Crucible manufactures a lot of the steel knifemakers use.

Are you trying to make scrapers for use as wood turning lathe tools? I ahve used files for that purpose, but they make poor lathe tools.

If lathe turning tools, or any type of scraper is what you are trying to make, your best bet is high speed steel, M4 would be a good choice, in the Rc65 range.

I've used Texas Knifemakers supply (http://www.texasknife.com)

Have a friend that uses Jantz (http://www.jantzsupply.com)

When it comes to what steel to use, I have found I'd rather spend $6 or so for a chunk of steel of known alloy, versus wasting a bunch of time and effort on some file that you don't really know what you have.

I am actually making a set of tools for working on clarinet reeds.
I have used files to make a variety of tools for reed making. I have a scraper that I made, basically smoothed the file, put an angle on the top similar to a chisel, but without a handle (the top of file asks as a handle). Really came out nice and very effective for my purpose.
I made another tool, for detailed work, in which I cut the same angle, on the tip of the tang, width about 3mm. Cut the file so it fits in the hand, again works great. My next project is to be a traditional reed knife. I am in the process of making four of them, one for me and the others for students. I made a prototype, using a bench grinder, hand grinder, and a couple of sharpening stones, and a dremel tool-I am actually amazed because the blade came out quite nice.

I am a Professional Bladesmith, so Id be glad to offer you some
good advice on files, DO NOT USE ANY FILE LESS THAN 30 YEARS OLD..
in fact...THE OLDER THE BETTER...try to find them from the 1920- to 1950 era.. newer files are many times made of bizzare alloys..
and are not good for knife blades. You want old carbon steel files,
you can forge them in a wood stove or charcole grill if you get it
hot enough.. and you can oil quench them...and toater oven temper
them... you can also just shape them by the stock removal method, and then retemper them.. be forewarned.. DOING STOCK REMOVAL IS DANGEROUS IN SEVERAL WAYS... WEAR HEAVY DUTY SAFETY EQP.. THAT FILE
HEATS UP IN YOUR BARE HAND WHILE YOU ARE WORKING IT ON THE GRINDER AND YOU GET BURNED AND TURN LOOSE OF IT..THAT GRINDER WILL FLING THAT FILE 8 WAYS FROM SUNDAY AND CUT U UP LIKE A SALAMI SANDWICH BEFORE YOU KNOW WHAT HAPPENED... IT WILL MAIME YOU,KILL YOU..OR WORSE.. YOU WILL LIVE TO REGRET IT..

OTHERWISE..HAVE FUN...

The first thing you need to do is anneal the metal. Next time you build a fire, stick them in the hot coals. As the fire dies, the metal will cool slowly and the steel will soften. Leave them until everything is burned out and cold. Now you can grind. I've probably made 25 blades since buying a belt grinder last winter. A belt grinder is my preference. I've seen it done with disc grinders also, but it would be more difficult. I sent my blades out to heat treat (Texas knifemaking supply) until I bought my own oven. The home version I've seen with files is to heat the blade up in the hot coals and plunge edge first into motor oil.

The one word of caution would be to cover up. I wear a leather shop apron, a dust mask, and a hat with a face shield.


Watch this guy's videos. It's about as low tech as you can go. It might give you an idea or two.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ysKd1cswlo