Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Bedding a Rem Model 7

Should one eliminate the little tabs on the stock and go for a full floated barrel or leave them in?

Thanks,
JerryK

An inept buddy asked me to relieve and full float his barrel on a 7-08 which I did. It was shooting about 1" before, not too badly. After I relieved it by removing those tabs, it turned into a 3" gun. I had to go back and bed and otherwise accurize it. After restoring up pressure on the barrel and the other work it was shooting �" groups consistently. You be the judge.

It never hurts to bed and float first. You could always bed the channel if it doesn't want to shoot. I haven't had many of the ultra slim contours.

If it is one of the originals with the slim barrel it may benefit from a bedded channel, heavier contours usually don't need it. I would bed the action and shoot, then bed the channel if needed.

Thanks guys....I think I will leave the tabs.....bed the action and see what happens.

JerryK

Any suggestions for a nicer recoil pad for the above???


Thanks,
JerryK

The Pachmayr Decellerator is never a bad choice, I like the solid basketweave: D750B Link. .8" thickness is about right for a Mod 7.

MtnHtr

I didn't do any before and after testing with the Model 7 I have in 223. I just removed the tabs and started off shooting excellent 3 shot groups at 100 yards; several at 3/8". Barrel is fully free floating. Did a number on the trigger though, making it more better. Also did the poor man's barrel lapping with JB Bore Paste.
I can see how guys get hooked on Model 7's as it is one very sweet rifle.

Don

Thanks..will check them out....what size did you get Lg-me-sm?

Jerry

That's smart. You never know; it might work just fine or BETTER with them. My 7-08 Mountain Rifle has the pressure points still, and shoots great that way; I wouldn't touch 'em.

I did float my M7 when it was a 7-08, but that's because it wouldn't shoot with the "tabs" still there. If your stock is crooked or binding funny up front (mine was) then those tabs are almost certainly a problem.

As to the recoil pad, just be advised that at least on the LSS series M7's, the hard pad that's on there now is both screwed and glued on there, and is a real PITA to get off cleanly. I used a Limbsaver on mine, but since I've seen 3/4ths of my Limbsavers go gummy on me, I will go back to the much easier to grind and cosmetically superior Decelerators in the future.

My 'early' Model 7 in .308 was finicky to start with. I finally figured out that it needed up-pressure. After I relieved the warpy tip of the barrel channel, I slipped a little piece of leather between the tip and the barrel. Instant shooter! The only qualification is that after the leather hardens in a year or so, I have to change it out with a fresh piece that still has some resiliency. Once I trim it with a razor blade, you don't even notice it. I suppose I could get equal results with bedding compound but I hate to mess with something that works this well.

It seems like if you can hold the fore end tip with your thunb and middle finger, and manage to force enough of a gap between barrel and stock with your index finger to slip the shim in, that's about the amount of pressure it likes.

I pillar bedded my model 7 and glassed in the lug. The problems I hd was with the long throat. I rebarreled with a 20" Broughton 5C on both of my model 7s. The both now shoot in the .2s.
Nat Lambeth

my old M7 7mm-08 with free floated pencil barrel shoots .75 moa to past 500 yards with 1.5-5 scope

my 673 (M7) in .350 won't shoot into 1.5 moa with the pad intact. the group goes straight up the target like a machine gun burst.